So, I have atlas turnouts and cross tracks now, but i am wondering who makes the best turnouts out there…and by best, i mean most reliable and the one with the best electrial conductivity for smooth running.
I have 7 turnouts on my layout now…I did jumper wires to make sure i have power to my rails regardless of any problems at the points…seems ok.
thanks
Kevin
You will have answers here from those who will swear on their dying mothers that Walthers Shinohara, or Micro-Engineering, or Peco are tops on their lists. They really are very good.
My mother is already deceased, and I don’t happen to use any of them…[%-)][sigh]
The three brands mentioned by selector, Shinohara, Micro-Engineering and Peco, are considered the best of the lot.
Atlas ranks at the bottom in quality, especially the Atlas Snap Track versions. Model Power, Bachmann, and other brands that are primarily included in Christmas train ssets, are also poorly made.
When it comes to turnouts and crossing diamonds, you definitely get what you pay for – buy cheap and you’ll have continual problems with them.
Ok so these are the most reliable.
well, of course i have the snap track versions…fiugres right?
when you say if i use these, i will have continued problems…will the problems get worse over time? as of right now i dont believe i have problems, as i did the jumper wires on the turnouts and the engines seem to go fine with no pause on the cross track, i have a 45 degree cross in my layout plan and only 5 turnouts now, not the 7…I am still in my planning stages of my layout.
the whole layout had a major transformation last night…from
This: http://www.vermontel.net/~kevin_ondre/HO%20Train/CMVTRR5_4x8.jpg
to this: http://www.vermontel.net/~kevin_ondre/HO%20Train/CMVTRR6_4x8.jpg
I went simpler due to that I am having a hard time getting things right when my 5yrold wants to help all the time, and I feel that he wont mind the simpler layout, plus smaller and simpler will be more manageable with maintenance.
My whole layout has been planned with sectional track, a mix of 18" Radi and 15" Radi. I have all the track pieces i need to fini***he layout, i am just wondering if I was to build with it and kept it clean, if problems would rise latter on due to just the fact that i used atlas snap track not Shinohara flex and turnouts.
Kevin
What # turnout by Shinohara would be comparable to the Atlas snap track turnouts? #4?
I just orderd some flex 100 Shinohara
Kevin
Sorry, none that I know of. The common is #4 with #5 a little harder to get. The #4 is mor gentle radius then Snap which is based on 18"R I think. For information I am using the new generation of Atlas Turnouts and have no problems on the test bench YET. Using Atlas undertable and the tortise along with ground throws. I also of Walthers but tehy are all code 83 and are very well made.
Have fun and remember it is your empire that you are building and that is who has to be happy.
This is just my opinion based on experience. As far as turnouts are concerned this is where you should consider spending more for better quality now than suffering the headaches and spending again later. I have used them all and find Peco to be the best and most worry free as they are pre-sprung to ensure good contact, which allows you to also use them manually, as-is. If you plan on running DCC, I would strongly suggest the Peco Insulfrog types. I don’t really recommend Shinohara or Walther’s (made by Shinohara) for DCC. I got rid of all of mine (30+) in favor of the Peco Insulfrog switches. Although they look good Shinohara or Walther’s are a pain because you need to insulate the entry and exit point of the switch to avoid short circuits due to the Frog especially in complex track arrangements. This also applies to Peco Electrofrog types. Peco is available in both Codes 100 and 75.
I would suggest using #6 or higher, especially on the main line or major crossover sections but feel free to use #4’s in industrial spurs. Just a Note about Atlas, if you are on a budget Atlas switches, if installed correctly and if preventative maintenance is done prior to installation should work just fine especially the newer models. However, if you can, I would still suggest going with Peco.
Stephan
Stephan raises another point, though; why elect to use 18" and 15" radii? Are you planning on switching rolling stock in a yard only? If so, then those radii will be okay when you stick to smaller switching motive power. But many modelers would question anything smaller than 22", particularly on the main if it is your intent to have one. The reason is that the larger radii will look more realistic in terms of visual appeal (trucks won’t have to turn so that one wheel is nearly outboard of the loco profile, or steamers’ cabs wont be hanging out there, too) and, at least as importantly, you will be able to run larger locos. Diesels are not really a problem in HO, I have heard, but the larger steamers (with 8 or more drivers), will noy be usable on your 18" radii. So, you’ll never be able to add those larger locos, and friends with them will be out of luck when they visit to operate on your road.
Anyway, consider a larger radius for visual appeal if you can. If you are not into steam, that part is moot.
Peco, I will look into those for turnouts. thanks
My layout is very basic. its on a 4x8 and before everyone starts in on that, let me just say that I have room for that and nothing else. I already have the table made and in place. I have already tested out using the 15" Radi and it works fine with all my engines and rolling stock. I will be running steam mostly, with the exception of my son’s F7’s which also run fine on 15" radi.
I went from a layout that called for 25+ 15" radi and 6 18" radi to a layout plan that calls for 12 18" radi and 7 15" radi, so i think i did well there.
you can see the two track plans as links in a post i put in this thread. I am going with the simpler plan.
All the sectional track will be replaced with using Shinohara flex track as that stuff holds is shape after flexed. I have always used atlas flex and never liked it, but the Shinohara seems to work just fine.
Thank you all for your input.
I think i will post some pics of the two track layouts on my table so you can all get an idea of what it was that i am trying to attempt. bur remember the layout with the figure 8 in the middle is not going to stay.
Kevin
For the best prices I have found on Peco turnouts, check:
Ok, so here are the pics…
The first pic is the original layout design, the loop with an inner figure 8.
Then the second pic is the simpler layout that i feel will be more realistic for me to work on and complete some day.
Using the combination of the 18" and 15" radi works just fine. my 4-4-2 doesnt seem to care for the switches though…that front pilot just seems to like to hop a lot.
http://www.vermontel.net/~kevin_ondre/HO%20Train/CMVTRR5_4x8real.jpg
http://www.vermontel.net/~kevin_ondre/HO%20Train/CMVTRR6_4x8real.jpg
I like your first layout better…more potential. The second IS simpler, agreed, but is much less interesting. You will find it so within weeks. Finally, that ramp on the right looks very steep. I’m guessing about 4-5%? Grades in the real world rarely exceeded 2% on the larger railroads’ mains. Your trains will have to be very short in order to negotiate that grade.
Sorry to be terse and blunt, but that’s the nature of the hobby in terms of utility.
I used Atlas turnouts for my last layout and my main complaint was that my sound-equipped locomotives often stalled when they hit the insulated frog. While using a powered frog is more complicated from a wiring perspective, if you use sound-equipped engines it may be the only way to get reliable operations.
I’ve used Atlas track, switches, and their electrical stuff for years…and haven’t had any problems. I do, however, have a Walthers curved switch…simply because Atlas doesn’t make them 
I like the first one too. but what i found i needed to do was have the line that comes from the back (covered bridge) has to cross the end of the figure 8 as a bridge and then come down 3" within 4’. doable, I tested it. infact the risers in the second layout are the same risers i used in the first layout. it is about 4%. now with the first layout, the engines would descend on that grade, but climb on a much easier grade. the whole back area including the covered bridge would be climbing up to 3".
Now with the second layout, there isnt any climbing on the main line, it will enter a tunnel on the right side. That branch line will curve around and climb the mountain to a logging camp the train will pull 2 log cars max. so i am not worried about the grade.
a pic of what the second layout will finally look like is here:
http://www.vermontel.net/~kevin_ondre/HO%20Train/CMVTRR6_4x8_details.jpg
So, the whole thing had to be considered…the layout is mostly for my son, he’s gonna be 5 in Dec. so complex isnt necessary. plus if i make the layout too complext it will take longer to finish it, and the plan is to have a pull out drawr under the train set that has a 1:32 scale slot car layout on it, 3 lanes on a routed surface…We want to get the Gscale train layout started…I have a BAGRS basic project i want to do…so I needed to make the ambition of the HO layout a bit lower in order to make it accomplishable along with all
If you already have the Atlas turnouts - then stick with 'em. Search the forums here to see what folks have done to make sure the things operate reliably. Of course if funds aren’t a problem, then you may want to think about the other brands out there.
Stephan brings up a good point about the Walthers turnouts and DCC. Walthers does have a line of DCC friendly turnouts which should address this concern, although I haven’t played with any yet.
While Peco is definately a very high quality item, it’s cost is a little more than what I want to spend on them. I find Walthers track to be a happy medium which works for me.
I do already have the turnouts. I have all the track too, I have all sectional track, but i went and bought Shinohara flex track to replace all the sectional track to hopefully aleviate any possible future problems.
I have done jumper wires on the turnouts to make sure electrical flows are solid no matter if any paint gets in on the points. I have gotten some paint on there too as i did paint by hand the rails, i tried to be careful, but i might have gotten some in there. the trouble i am having right now is jumping of the pilot. well see though as things get more solid.
Kevin
