I have an Athearn R-T-R F7 that has steam generator details molded in the factory body but I want the loco to be a freight engine. What is the best (and least likely to damage) way to remove the details?
Thanks for any help. Still searching for a matching ‘B’ unit and ‘A’ unit to run either A-B set or A-A set.
Cannot provide any help here, but I admire your determination to match the prototype. Removing or filing down molded parts seems like a high risk proposition, but maybe it can be done.
Incidentally, what road name are you looking for?
Rich
BERKSHIRE STEAM,
You might want to shoot,Mobilman44,a PM,I hear he has some,F7,ABBA,sets,he’s looking for a home for…I believe they are, Santa Fe’s… Just a Thought.
Cheers,
Frank
The best way is don’t…I’ve seen my fair share of blotch jobs over the years.
But,if you must.
A chisel blade in a Exacto knife will work wonders.
Take your time and work slowly.
I am hesitant in saying this but,if you are skilled with a Dremel tool used the lowest speed(I prefer using a cordless Dremel ) and grind the unwanted details off…
Whatever method you use be very careful, take your time and try not to sneeze. Be thankful you’re not working with metal models like I am.
What’s with all the doom-and-gloom? I guess this thread proves that we really are an rtr hobby. I would use an x-acto chisel blade and knock the details down as close as possible, then file and sand until smooth. Make sure you don’t go so far to remove the curvature of the roof. When satisfied, mask and paint to match. Easy!
Berkshire,
Chuck is spot on.
You can use an Exacto knife to remove those details. Afterwards check the cut areas and sand off any burs. Apply a quality filler for leveling the cut surfaces. Squadron Putty or good old fashion auto body glazing putty works fine. Sand as needed. For a job like this I normally sand my putty work with 3M Wet/Dry 220-320 grit range and final sand with 600-800 grit range. With some thin plastic surfaces, I’ll finish with 1200 grit.
In this photo I’m using a #18 Exacto Chisel Blade to remove the molded on grabs on a 1970s AHM HO observation car. I have the blade facing up for the camera.
With little effort I was able to slice off all of the molded on rails. I was amazed that the cuts were very close to being flush with the surface.
Give it a whirl! [8D]
I been using a Dremel tool for years to remove unwanted details once mastered its easy and quick and saves a lot of work.
A Dremel is a modeler’s BFF once he learns how to use it.
I use a chisel from Micro-Mark.
Wow, lot to answer here. I wouldn’t use Dremel on something this intricate, not that I have one anyways. Not that I’m trying to prove everyone wrong, but it seems the Dremel is touted as one of those “must have” tools. Kind of like the airbrush, although I will most likely end up buying one of those before christmas.
I’m actually not looking for any particular road name, just the locomotive model. This actually started a few weekends ago while trying to get this F7 to run with an R-T-R GP35 in MU to run at the rr club which has a 2% grade section to climb up-and-over itself (or down-and-under depending on operating direction). Since then it has morphed into the conception of also having a matching F unit set.
Anything learned here will also get incorporated when I chop the nose on my P2K GP18 and the GP35 project (need to remove dynamic brakes).
I use either an X-Acto #17 or #18 blade for removing cast-on details. Don’t try to remove it in one pass, but rather take it off with multiple passes. Keep the blade sharp - that style of blade is one of the easiest to sharpen and, as Antonio mentions, always keep the bevelled edge down. Here’s the first pass on a ladder on an Athearn BB boxcar:
…and the door track:
After doing eight cars, I got a little careless and needed to do some filling [:$] :
Once painted, the removed details should not be evident at all - a coat of primer will reveal if you need to do more removal or filling. Here’s one of the finished boxcars:
For things such as “wood” freight cars, you’ll need to scribe-in the board detail where the moulded-on details have been removed:
For details which are especially thick, use the chisel blade to segment the detail vertically by firmly pressing the blade into the surface of it (making sure that the underside is adequately supported) then make successive horizontal passes to remove the smaller segments. This will allow you to remove the bulk of the mate
My Dremel is one of the most important tools in my tool collection.
I can sand,drill,buff,cut,saw,grind etc…It saves a lot of elbow grease,finger and hand fatigue.
As I said this handy dandy tool can become a modeler’s BFF…
I don’t know why I waited years to buy one.
Larry,
I prefer,the flexible shaft,that goes on the end of the Dremel tool,for intricate work…I don’t know if it will work on a cordless though…The flexible shaft is like holding a fat ink pen, I find you have much better control,then holding the bulkier tool…[:-^]
Cheers,
Frank [bow]
Frank,I can’t used that on my antiquated Dremel so,a new Dremel and the flexible shaft is on my to buy list.
I use the battery powered Dremel for small jobs like drilling a Athearn BB locomotive or fright car coupler box which saves a lot of pin vise work.
Larry,
Yeah,I did not know,if it would work or not,but good for you about getting one. To me that is a very valuable tool to add to anyone’s collection,try to get the one,that has inter-changeable collets, then you can use,a lot of your real small drill bits…[tup]
Cheers, [:D]
Frank
Using a Dremel to remove plastic molded detail parts seems analogous to using a sledge hammer to put a nail on the wall when hanging a small painting or framed photo.
It would seem that a small hobby chisel or metal hobby file would be a more gentle way to accomplish the same objective.
Rich
Rich,
I like the sledge hammer part,is that what your,‘‘Dentist’’ uses ?? [:-^]
Cheers,
Frank
Seriously, doesn’t a Dremel seem like overkill for a project such as this?
Rich
I thought that for years until a follow modeler taught me how to use a Dremel on the lowest rpm setting.I won’t go back to the Exacto chisel blade or the filing method any time soon.I restrict my pin vise to smaller task.
As far as overkill no…Its makes the job easier.
Rich,
I would tend to agree,to a certain extent,when using the bulkier tool in one’s hand,yes,when using the flexible shaft,ink pen grip no,especially,a adjustable speed tool. Just like writing your name. I have used both ways, also the chisel blade,it depends on what I’m using it for…Any dentist uses them all the time, working on your teeth. As a matter of fact,my dentist showed me where to get Diamond tip cutting and drilling tips,for use in the flexible shaft,and a lot cheaper than some hobby tool suppliers…
Cheers, [:D]
Frank