what generation is it some of the later ones were dcc ready. if you just have to remove a small nub you can take a bastard cut file and load it with grease to hold the filings.
And some, like the SD 7/9 above and the PAs and E units, you can remove the weights by removing a few, sometimes hidden, screws.
Good Luck, Ed
That’s where I was talking about putting it, just before I had quickly leave. [%-)]
Mike.
Thanks for all the excellent commentary and suggestions!
Gotta give a double hat tip to Ed, the chassis is held in place by two screws and can be easily removed for milling purposes. Wahoo! The P2K GP30’s have open venting on the fans so work well to install speaker below the fans.
Are there detail parts to replace the solid fans to open vents on other models such as an athearn locomotive (Gp38-2 and 40-2)?
Thanks, Rick! Glad my few hints helped you out.
As far as body openings, i.e. vents and fans, in all the diesel sound installs I’ve done I really haven’t noticed too much of a difference in how the body shell was configured as far as “letting the sound out” goes.
It seems like there is enough open space where the trucks attach or through other body shell openings that the sound gets out okay. Generally, I have noticed that the sound improves when the shell is finally in place so the speakers have a sound chamber to help with the dynamic range.
Once you have done a few sound installs you then have the confidence to experiment a little. The results may surprise you. The “sugar cube” speakers are amazing little devices!
Good Luck, Ed
I thought the P2K’s had “see-through” fans. I’m also not sure if the fans are removable, individualy, or not. I doubt it, I’ve never looked at mine.
If not, I’m sure Ed’s ideas will be spot on.
Do the sugar cube speakers come already enclosed? So mount the speaker and your done? Would using 2 speakers make a good difference. or not? I’m not sure just what a decoder with sound puts out for speakers, as far as power.
Good luck Rick, and let us “give-a-listen” when you get it fired up. I’m really interested in these speakers, as I have a sound install coming up. My first.
Mike.
Yes, the P2k gp30’s have see-through fans. I was asking if these see-through fans are available as a detail part to provide an optional approach in challenging sound installations.
The sugar cube speakers vary. Sometimes the enclosure is sold with the speaker and other times the enclosures are purchased separately with multiple options. The single sugar cube speakers sound very good to me and double etc speakers are awesome as well. I’m very much a novice in relation so I’ll let the more advanced modelers like Ed provide their recommendations.
You most likely don’t have room for one of the speakers I’ve been using but they sure sound great. Best sounding speakers for DCC that I’ve ever heard.
The speakers are 4Ω so they need a 4Ω resistor in series with them for an 8Ω decoder output. I use them in pairs where I can fit them in.
https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2016/11/november-10-2016-rivarossi-cab-forward.html
Those speakers have Neodymium magnets and will pickup metal filings, spikes and track nails so if you mount them like I do you will need to protect the speakers.
Streamlined Backshop has a good overview of sugarcubes:
http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/sugarcubespeakernotes.html
They show the ESU speaker that I linked to and showed photos of above. One reason I like the ESU is that I can keep plenty on hand and the housings are easily stackable or adaptable to varying needs.
There are occasions where I use “found” materials or scratch built enclosures out of styrene or wood. One time I had some 25 or 28mm round speakers and I wound up using Walthers Cornerstone steel tank rings as speaker housings.
If I can fit them I do like to have two speakers if possible. Maybe it breaks all the rules but I have used two different speakers. I try to keep the impedance the same but I have mixed them up, as long as I don’t get too much for the decoder to handle. Decoder output wattage has increased in recent decoders and I believe the new Loksound 5 is even higher yet. I nearly always have to reduce sound levels.
Here is a BLI Alco RSD-15 that I have a 28mm round speaker in the original location, but I modified the housing, and a sugar cube mounted in the high nose. These were both 8Ω and I believe I wired them in series. All I remember is that the end result was great sound [:)]
BLI_BLE_RS15dcc by Edmund, on Flickr
As I recall, there are no openings in the top or sides of this shell, all the sound comes out the bottom. Unless you put your ears in close proximit
If it’s never been apart, take a look at Edmund’s photos to see why you should even if you AREN’T goign to mill the frame. See all that goop in the gearbox? A) there’s far too much of it and B) the original factory grease, especially in a model as old as this, can actually get hard - not just extra thick, actually hardened like glue. Washing that all out (again - be very careful about the bushings and washers on the worm shaft - they should be cleaned off but they can be easily washed down a sink so don;t even thing about holding them under running water) and reassembling with the correct amount (a very little bit - there just needs to be enough to lightly cover the mating surfaces, these don’t need to be packed like wheel bearings on a car) of a good quality lubricate can make a 100% improvement in performance of these locos.
–Randy