Can anyone help me? Please.
You may have to provide a bit more info before we can get too specific in helping. Try telling us a bit about your thinking regarding shelf width, method of construction (lite-weight or framed plywood), wall type, do you want to totally avoid legs, method of layout construction (open grid, solid plywood, modular), etc.
There’s probably no one ‘best’ way. Traditional method would have you construct wooden brackets that would fasten against the wall, and have diagonal braces from the end of the arm down to the bottom of the brace. These days a lot of guys are constructing using those commercially available shelf bracket systems (vertical rods with slots, and the brackets that lock into the slots).
Regards
Ed
puristpilot2,
Depends on how wide your “shelves” are going to be. I intend to build an around-the-room layout supported off the wall studs. Since it is a finished bedroom, and I want to do the least damage possible, I intend to build small gussets (triangular braces) of 1x2s with a 1/4" groove which holds a more or less triangular piece of plywood. Since I don’t intend to get more than 18" from the wall (most of the layout to be 15" wide or less), these should support the layout well. I’ll attach to the studs with 3.5" drywall screws after predrilling the holes in the gussets. The layout will rest on top of my gussets. Only damage to the walls are a bunch of small holes in the drywall at the studs. Very easy to fix.
A friend plans to do the same, but his layout is to have wider shelves and two levels. He intends to hang his layout from the gussets and use them as the basis for scenic dimensions. It might have a hole through it for a tunnel, or the track might go around it for scenic diversity. The gusset will not necessarily be a true triangle but have some irregular shape on the diagonal. There will not be anything hanging under the shelves to detract from the lower level.
Neither one of us plans to have any legs under the layout. Mine will be high enough so that an adult can see it at a “normal” viewing level (about the height of the light switch). This allows furniture to fit under it. Since it is not too wide, except in the small yard, it should not intrude too much into the room. Notice how close you ever get to a wall in a room. You probably never get closer than 18" to the wall. That is usable space for a railroad!
Mark C.
My layout is a shelf type. I was able and DID SO to make it a permanent
part of the room it resides in. MEANING ??? I secured the benchwork
directly to the walls and studs of the house. It is solid as can be. I also do
not plan on moving anytime soon. I secured the benchwork with 3" screws.
You may not want to do this if it has to be moved. MOST shelf layouts will
or should not exceed a 24" width for many reasons. Whatever your case,
use legs on the fronts for extra stability. It will come in handy when you lay
the tracks and do your scenery.
In the October or November 2005 issue of RMC (Railroad Model Craftsman), there is a very good article on securing an around the wall layout using adjustable shelving brackets. Not very expensive and the materials are available at home supply stores. The advantage is that it allows easy flexibility if a modeler decides to have one or more lower sections for rivers, roadways, or ravines and have a bridge or bridges spanning across.
Looks like this design would fit the bill nicely for a lot of around the wall layouts that will be 2 feet wide or less.
After reading the article in RMC and studying the photos in the link below, I’ve decided to to take this route. [tup]
There’s an excellent photo link of an example. Click on this:
http://www.railimages.com/gallery/ericgroody/aad
Guys, for those of you with limited space…check it out and post your critiques and thoughts!
Matt,
Pick up a copy of Basic Model Railroad Benchwork by Jeff Wilson. It’s put out by Kalmbach Books. You should be able to pick up a copy at your local hobby store (LHS).
It goes into the different types of benchwork (e.g. grid, L-girder, cookie-cutter, open-grid, foam, etc.) and has a 9-chapter entitled, “Wall-mounted benchwork”. I think it would be worth the money vested into getting it. Lotsa good ideas and pictures for you to mull over.
Tom
heres a good method that I’m gonna use.
Ken.
Ken,
Looks like angled steel. That will definetly work.
If you don’t mind, just one minor suggestion:
I’ve worked with this material before and it is quite strong, however, it can rust over time. Consider painting it before installation. Rustoleum works very well and comes in a variety of attractive colors that match the drywall in your room.
Peace.
I put a 2x6 plank on top of a shelving set I bought at Menards, then pushed it up against the wall of my garage. This is not attached to the walls but sits in front of them. Only drawbacks so far: (1) dust &c builds up between the shelves and the wall (2) weird looks from store staff when I bought 1 long and 6 short legs to stand shelves up with. (3) wife is afraid to park van in garage lest she scratch the van against the layout.
Doesn’t answer the question directly BUT… I would never secure off a wall… creates too many issues. it’s easier to go with legs… for lots of reasons… and you can move it later.
Sheet metal L brackets are good: strong and very inexpensive.