Sorry if I’m beating a dead horse with this, since I haven’t been on these forums for a while. To make a long story short, my first BLI 4-8-4 had a gear problem, so I sent it back to BLI for repairs. They sent it back a few weeks later saying the problem was fixed. I put the locomotive on the track, and it still had same gear problem. The thing that got me really irritated was the headlight casting and bell were broken off and lying under the foam. That is not how I shipped it to them.
Anyway, I ordered and received replacement from the hobby store (shipped my old one back to them), and now this one has the same problem.[:(!] I’m not sending this one back to BLI nor getting another one.
I do have someone that can fix it, but are there others here that has had gear problems with their BLI’s 4-8-4s? My locomotive is the #056 ATSF 3751. I have the impression that BLI rushed these locomotives to assembly and not much emphasis was put on QC.
I’m beginning to suspect that your gear problem is related to something else and is not really a gear problem. Please define for us in more specific terms what is happening that makes you think it is a gear problem. I have never heard of anyone having a gear problem with BLI engines.
Nor me. This seems very odd. I have even purchased two engines from their Outlet Direct, engines that could no longer be sold as new, and I only had one problem with the Niagara…it was the decoder, which BLI fixed no questions asked.
In every case, (I also shipped my new Hudson to them many months ago to get a pickup that I had broken repaired) the technician has included a slip, like a work order, and written on it what he/she had done. You should be able to trace the repair with BLI and find out what the heck is going on!
Just curious–is it a ‘gear’ problem, or a clanking sound from the rods and eccentric gear when you operate it? The recommendation is that you use a light oil on the rods and eccentric gear before operating the locomotive, which will clear up the ‘clanking’ after a few minutes of operating it. I recommend LaBelle #108, which is not only very light, but also plastic compatable (in case a drop or two gets on the ABS eccentric-gear hangers).
The reason I ask, is that almost all of my BLI steamers have a slight ‘clanking’ problem right out of the box, but the oil clears it up immediately.
I had a similar problem with my BLI M1b 4-8-2. Ran it on the track and all of a sudden I heard a very strange clicking noise. It worsened quickly, becoming louder than the sound decoder. I probably shouldn’t have left it for so long, but I was still able to get it repaired. Brought it back to my LHS and they received a replacement gear and fixed it for me, without effecting the warranty (they must have worked out a deal with BLI b/c it does say on the warranty card that it is void the moment the body has been removed from the chassis… at least that is what they originally told me). When they returned it to me, I never had the clicking problem again. A little bit of lube here and there and it was running perfectly!
I have a number of these engines and they all require a bit of TLC and lubing as steam does. While I dont have the 4-8-4 specifically none of my BLI steam has this problem.
Usually BLI will fix them and anything else they can find at the shop without any problems.
Im also curious as to why you bought ANOTHER engine of the same type knowing about the problem with the first? Would it have been better to simply SHIP the old engine to BLI and let THEM decide if it needs replacing and save you 400 dollars??
My Reading T1 did have issues when running and if memory serves, it was traced to misaligned guides inside the frame that holds the driving axles.
Lube everything you can get to.
Also I think “HOGWASH” when someone stated that the warranty is void should you open the body. I have two engines waiting for just that to get to the gears lubed in the towers.
It is nice to know someone else has had a similar problem. I do have the BLI/PCM Repair form from my first engine saying they replaced "geared primary driver #3 along with both gears in the gear tower. However, it still acted the same way when I got it back. The “clicking” is evident, and it hesitates after every single revolution of the wheels. Of course I greased the gears and lubed the rods before running it. Did the same with my new one.
Don’t know why other posters thought I bought two of them. No. The hobby store replaced it with another one…with same problem, but I can get it fixed here locally.
Maybe there is something else wrong with it. Out of quarter? Perhaps. This not uncommon. Something with the drive rods? Another possibility.
Oh well, I just wanted to know if others had similar problems.
Russell, if we give BLI the benefit of the doubt (I know that may be a stretch for you tonight.[:D]), and we assume that the tech actually opened it up and replaced a truly defective part, then your returned and still problematic loco suggests to me that the issue is in the rods and valve gear. Would it be possible to at least determine which side has the click. From there, when you invert the loco and put power to it using clips, can you see if any of the rods has a rub or makes contact in an unusual place. Could the valve stem be bent, inside the valve housing, and be making contact with something? Is a rod bolt backing out, or is a rod bent?
One other possibility is that a wiper is being flicked by some flashing that rotates past it.
That’s it…I am out of experience or idea. I hope someone nails this for you.
I remember one of my older steam was quite the clicker…
Here is what I did:
Sat the engine upside down in the cradle.
Fed it power from the wires to track power.
As it ran very slowly, looked over both sides from directly above (OR from below… if that suits you) the upside down model and looked for drive rod binding, rubbing, screwheads banging into the other rods etc.
I used a toothpick to literally feel out the source of the “Click” just like I used to do with checking valves on the V8 long ago by putting a pencil onto the head cover and feeling each over the individual cylinders. I would start below each axle and see if I can feel the click at the same moment hearing it. Then work up towards the brake hangers and finally into the boiler and to the Motor, gear towers and shafts.
If the click is present is should be coming from one spot somewhere on the whole loco.
If that does not help then I guess getting a HO scale Doctor’s ear tube and going over everything will do it.
By the way, apologies for the thinking you bought two engines. Now I understand what happened.
All of these recent postings about problems with what is supposed to be very fine models with high levels of engineering seems to me that somebody somewhere is no longer caring about quality control. It’s almost like they toss pallets of these engines into the container and slam it down onto stacks of other containers with one eye on the “Quitting time” over there across the Pacific Ocean.
I got one! I got one! a clicking gear problem that is in my new bli J. sounds somewhat like the proto cracked gear thing on my diesels before I got them fixed. Sure surprised me, but the J ran for a few seconds then click turn click turn (wheel) click turn click turn, etc. I emailed bli and I’ll see what they have to say. Too bad. All my other bli steamers are just fine too. I’m betting this one is just one of them things and once fixed it’ll be just fine like the others. and yep, it does 18" radius just fine. aha! even click go click go click go. yep, I know it looks funny, but it’s all I got. I just keep the railfans away from the curves with their cameras.
Russell, I have two of them, early ones also, but have not had gear problems yet. But I don’t run them very often, since my layout is all diesel set in 1989. I did have problems with the pony trucks lifting, that is about all.
Trainnut, yep I have had the same problem and think getting ready to have it again.
My M1a started to make the clicking sound going backwards. I was told here on the site more than likely it was the side rods. One night I was pulling a little heaver drag and sound started up going foward and I knew the sound! I have 4 BL2 Brown Box Protos and they love to crack center gears.
Called BLI and spoke with Bob (I would hate to have his job, everyone he talks to is PO’ed). Told him what I thought the problem was and he said send it back they fix it in 4 to 6 weeks. Hum, had it for around a week and not ready to have it gone that long. Asked Bob if he would send me the center gear and I would replaces and not void the warranty. Bob said OK and sent me the center gear.
Frist time I tore it down I went over board and had everthing off inc and spliting chassis apart. (note I said the first time). Found the center gear had no lube at all, dry as a bone.
Replaced the center gear and I was draging heavy freight! Happy Happy Joy Joy![:D]
Fast forward say 4 months with heavy drag’s around 30 cars up a 1.5% grade. I all so ran it say 20 hours a week. One night I lashed up a 35 car drag, the clicking came back again? It was not dry either this time aroud!
Called Bob at BLI again and this time he sent me to sets of center gears. This time it only took me a half hour to fix and pulls well again but around 25 cars to be safe.
Now my PCM Big Boy, reviews said it would pull around 100 cars on a level track. It pulls like heck, lashed it up to 50 cars and it was nothing to this monster. Guess what? It is starting to make a clicking sound going up my Shermann hill with a 25 car load? I have had this engine open for other reasons and tower gears of both engines (drive wheels) where well lubed. Oh well it was going back to BLI/PCM
Wow, this thread is still going. I thought it went away since very few had the same problem.
I had someone here local to check it out. It ran smooth after I got it back. He claims he didn’t find anything wrong and did nothing to it, but he is modest about his work. He does a lot of steam scratchbuilding and painting, so he knows his stuff.
Overall, I still like the details and sounds on BLI’s locomotives, but will be cautious on future purchases.
I guess I forgot to uncheck the “clicking and binding version” box on the online order sheet when I first bought it [:D]
Trainnut, yep I have had the same problem and think getting ready to have it again.
My M1a started to make the clicking sound going backwards. I was told here on the site more than likely it was the side rods. One night I was pulling a little heaver drag and sound started up going foward and I knew the sound! I have 4 BL2 Brown Box Protos and they love to crack center gears.
Called BLI and spoke with Bob (I would hate to have his job, everyone he talks to is PO’ed). Told him what I thought the problem was and he said send it back they fix it in 4 to 6 weeks. Hum, had it for around a week and not ready to have it gone that long. Asked Bob if he would send me the center gear and I would replaces and not void the warranty. Bob said OK and sent me the center gear.
Frist time I tore it down I went over board and had everthing off inc and spliting chassis apart. (note I said the first time). Found the center gear had no lube at all, dry as a bone.
Replaced the center gear and I was draging heavy freight! Happy Happy Joy Joy![:D]
Fast forward say 4 months with heavy drag’s around 30 cars up a 1.5% grade. I all so ran it say 20 hours a week. One night I lashed up a 35 car drag, the clicking came back again? It was not dry either this time aroud!
Called Bob at BLI again and this time he sent me to sets of center gears. This time it only took me a half hour to fix and pulls well again but around 25 cars to be safe.
Now my PCM Big Boy, reviews said it would pull around 100 cars on a level track. It pulls like heck, lashed it up to 50 cars and it was nothing to this monster. Guess what? It is starting to make a clicking sound going up my Shermann hill with a 25 car load? I have had this engine open for other reasons and tower gears of both engines (drive wheels) where well lubed. Oh well it was
Russell as far as diesels I am very happy with Proto 2000’s. I have 4 E-6’s and they pull like heck.
As far as BLI /PCM I have not given up on them. Have a PCM Y6b coming, Bob said there weak point is a our poor eyes pluging up the din plug. On the cannon plug he said to add a little CV glue to the out side of the make it a little stronger.