BLI E7 VS. Proto 2000 E7- Which one?

I was recently looking around the markets for perhaps an E7 locomotive. Maybe an A-B set. I have seen both Broadway Limited and Proto 2000 both make them, and I am trying to decide which one is better. I like both, but I can’t decide. Does anyone out there have either, and can you say the pros/cons?

Thanks,

Mark

I have both and like them both. IMO the Proto is perhaps a little better on the detail and runs a tad smoother, but there is not much to choose between them.

Do you have ones with sound? Sound accuracy (or sounds good also) is a biggie.

I bought the Proto QSI E7’s in the A-A group for the B&O.

What made them keepers was the grey of the units matched (To my eye which isnt that good half the time) the Rapido B&O Cars.

Sound…

old video link removed. working on recovering other link.

I have two of the Proto 2000 E7’s. I like the detail and I think they’re a little heavier than the BLI offerings. My are DCC (no sound) and are extremely good runners with lots of pulling power.

I own both P2K E7As and a BLI E7A as well. Both run excellently. My P2Ks have no sound, so I cannot compare that. I am very happy with the BLI QSI sound. Eventually, I’d like to install the upgrade chip. As far as looks, I am not very impressed with the nose countour of the P2K Es. My own personal opinion is that the BLI E7 shell is superior. But, both are good locomotives.

I have heard things about the Proto shells. “Lips” by the cab, and something is wrong with the wipers, but I’m not really a rivet counter, so as long as it has some power under the hood, has good paint, and runs smoothley, (SP?) I’m fine.

I have a BLI E7 and it runs and sounds great. It is a great puller; I can get 10 freight cars up a 4% incline on a curve with some slow down right at the top with slow to moderate speed and just minor slow down at high speed. My curves are super elevated in .10 increments to a max of .30. I do not have a Proto to compare with.

Unless the BLI models are the new Blue Line series, they use the QSI sound decoder which is the same one that is in the P2K, so they should sound exactly the same.

I don’t own either one, so I can’t comment about the details or running qualities.

Oddly enough, the BLI E7A I have (an early run) sounds nothing like the BLI SW7 or the P2K GP9 that I have (both with QSI). The E sounds very close to right on for a 567 (or a pair)[:D] while the SW and GP sound the same as each other-and not too close to any EMD I ever heard. The only thing missing from the sound on that E7 is the throttle notching up in steps like the prototype. The GP9, (and my GP20-which has a turbo whine superimposed over the standard Geep sound) and the SW7 have sounds that don’t quite match what I remember-and have on record. My Loksound-equipped F3A/B set, now, they really sound good.

I own quite a few of both brands. 8 to 10 Protos and 4 to 6 BLIs. I don’t know the exact numbers because I have E6s and E8s mixed in there too.

They use the same QSI electronics DCC/sound unit so that is not a deciding factor. As GN-Rick says it sounds like a 567, but my gripe has always been it sounds like only one (real E-units had two), and it doesn’t load up when one first hits the throttle like a real one would. So the on big “con” is the same for both units.

As you have noticed others mentioning the variations in the nose & windshields. I cannot tell the difference until I park them right next to each other. Only then does my eye pick out the variations, and they are definitely there. I would have to “park” one right next to a photograph to figure out which was more accurate. I don’t have time, nor any care to do that. They are close enough for me that it doesn’t matter. It isn’t like some of the brass models where the angles are so screwy I can’t bear to look at them. Only you can decide if either is good enough for you.

Running is nearly identical. The Proto-2000 without sound easily outpulls both the BLI and Proto-2000 with sound units. I presume it is because of the weight they had to cut out in order to fit the speakers in. In general, since I have them in the same paint schemes (CB&Q/GN) I often forget which is which and have to pick them up to look on the bottom when I need to know. That is how close they are.

I like the box that the BLI unit comes in much better than the PROTO boxes. So if the unit is to be stored off layout that might be a consideration.

For my 2 cents the bottom line is that you can’t go wrong with either unit. Get whichever one is cheaper or whichever is available in the paint scheme you want/need. Worst case is if they are the same price and in same

It takes a notch or two to get my units moving. I dont know if you can see that in the video I put up.

Hi Mark, I have both the BLI & P2K EMD E7 & E8/9. I find both to be smooth runners & very smooth when running very slow when controlled with a DCC Controller. BLI & P2K have the QSI DCC SOUND system installed & have excellent true to life real sounding engine sounds, horn, bell, etc. The detail is very good to excellent with both brands. I have a total of around 40 EMD E7’s, E8/9’s in both BLI & P2K, more of the P2K due to the price of the BLI’s, I only have 15 BLI’s on my layout. I also have a few P2K’s without sound & am currently waiting for the after market QSI DCC SOUND SYSTEM, personally I cannot wait. I have in the mean time installed the SOUNDTRAXX 82120 DCC SOUND DECODER with a 1" ROUND speaker connected, Sounds great.

Hope This Helps

Peter

Here they are again, re-uploaded.

http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=waltherse7unitsqs0.flv

Several video hosting sites fail to do a good job after a month or so. Imageshack still has it up but they are slow in the morning.

Falls Valley,

I noticed that you changed the horn to the honker that usually comes with the BLI/P2K E8. Did you install the upgrade chip?

I didnt change anything with those engines.

The only QSI upgrade I have done was with the BLI M1a.

I try to leave everything as they are unless they dont run well together.

I dont know yet what chips are in these new E units. It would not be difficult to remove body and examine the letters-numbers combination on top of the QSI chip that tells exactly what version it is and what files it contains.

Those two E7 units were bought new a few months ago from Walthers via my hobby shop and it is my understanding that they are a limited run. I wanted to get the E8’s A-B Combination but decided not to because I strongly believe all units should carry power and do thier fair share of the work on my railroad. NO DUMMIES allowed. So Proto lost the potential sale. But I gained a pair of good running A pair for my pax train so grins all around.

The grey on these E7’s very closely match the B&O cars from Rapido that I had from earlier this year. I cannot see any difference in shade of grey particularly.