BLI GS-4: first look

Received mine about 10 days ago and was delayed a little in running it by a knee operation.

I can’t speak to the accuracy of lettering size and placement, etc., but the paint is very good and the overall appearance is very good. At three feet, it looks very similar to the MTH, except that the smokebox door is much brighter, and the orange areas are slightly brighter. The back of the cab and front of the tender ladders, etc., are detailed, which the MTH glosses over.

The number of electro-mechanical problems I ran into was an unpleasant surprise. Starting with the difficulty trying to connect the loco and tender. You need smaller fingers and better eyes than I have.

When I tried to run the loco, I got no movement, just a ticking noise. Turns out the worm and worm gear are held together by a clamshell, and mine wasn’t snapped closed. No big deal.

Next I wanted to turn off the smoke. But the switch must have been relocated, because it wasn’t behind the smokebox door as described in the paperwork. F7 also would not turn the smoke off. How do I keep the heater from burning out?

The sounds of the whistle, airhorn and bell are to my liking. But something is amiss with the chuff. It has an uneven cadence, like X–X–X-X—X–X–X-X—. Having been around the 4449 some hours, I don’t think this is correct. Nor does a more experienced friend. It also has a “tick” that occurs at the gap. The oddness of these sounds tends to become less noticable as speed increases, but at low speed, we find them annoying. I don’t think the sampling/looping process was done right.

Still nothing that was a killer - not until I put the loco on and just let it run. I was getting frequent derailments on straight sections, most often when crossing turnouts set for straight. I gauged the drivers, and found the ba

An uneven exhaust cadence is indicative of valve timing being out of adjustment. I have the impression that this uneven sound is used because the manufacturer/specifier feels that we customers would think it sounds more “authentic”. For a rusty old rattletrap of a 2-8-0, it might. For 4449, I don’t think so.

Sorry about your other troubles, too.

Ed

[quote user=“hdtvnut”]

Received mine about 10 days ago and was delayed a little in running it by a knee operation.

I can’t speak to the accuracy of lettering size and placement, etc., but the paint is very good and the overall appearance is very good. At three feet, it looks very similar to the MTH, except that the smokebox door is much brighter, and the orange areas are slightly brighter. The back of the cab and front of the tender ladders, etc., are detailed, which the MTH glosses over.

The number of electro-mechanical problems I ran into was an unpleasant surprise. Starting with the difficulty trying to connect the loco and tender. You need smaller fingers and better eyes than I have.

When I tried to run the loco, I got no movement, just a ticking noise. Turns out the worm and worm gear are held together by a clamshell, and mine wasn’t snapped closed. No big deal.

Next I wanted to turn off the smoke. But the switch must have been relocated, because it wasn’t behind the smokebox door as described in the paperwork. F7 also would not turn the smoke off. How do I keep the heater from burning out?

The sounds of the whistle, airhorn and bell are to my liking. But something is amiss with the chuff. It has an uneven cadence, like X–X–X-X—X–X–X-X—. Having been around the 4449 some hours, I don’t think this is correct. Nor does a more experienced friend. It also has a “tick” that occurs at the gap. The oddness of these sounds tends to become less noticable as speed increases, but at low speed, we find them annoying. I don’t think the sampling/looping process was done right.

Still nothing that was a killer - not until I put the loco on and just let it run. I was getting frequent derailments on straight sections, most often when crossing turnouts set for straight. I gauged the

There’s a heap of similar comments on the BLI forum also. You’d think after waiting so so long for this model it would have been top notch! I waited about a year and a half after they announced this model then bought the MTH version. It looks good sounds good and I’ve now been running it for YEARS.

Jim

It is too bad both companies built the same model when so many other prototypes are needed. I purchased the MTH # 1 gauge model and it has smokebox contours correct along with 80" drivers and most other details are really nice. I do not understand how the HO model did not follow the same design drawings scaled correctly for the HO model.

The MTH passenger train is very good overall and I did purchase that set along with the add on cars to have an eighteen car train. Very nice train and it rolls very well compared to other passenger cars.

CZ

I was thinking of picking up the BLI GS-4, as their Dual-mode is kinder to straight DC than the MTH ‘triple’ mode.

I’ve got the MTH basic Dayhlight set with an added articulated coach, and it’s just a jewel–runs beautifully. But I think after the reviews of the BLI loco that I’ll stick with my Westside GS-4 for the motive power. No bells or whistles, but it’s a sweet, smooth powerful runner and handles the train effortlessly.

It’s too bad that this long-awaited locomotive from BLI seems to have so many problems.

Tom

Tom

That us good thought on using the Westside model for pulling the train. Last month, I found an additional GS4 by Westside that had never been decaled or run for $250. It was a bargain and I added it to my stable of several GS4’s including a Key, which is a great model. It is a shame that the GS4 has so many problems but they just keep coming at us with more problems. I got one and it does run but not that well and I don’t plan on using it. The sound is the worst so far of any BLI models and BLI should go back to using QSI or go to the Tsunami for replacement. This model probably is built by a new company that bid it cheap to BLI, but the quality is not good.

I got the complete MTH train with the add on 4 articulated and 2 single coaches to make up an 18 car train. It can be pulled very nicely since it rolls so well and the cars are very light compared to any brass models imported in the past.

I like the lighting also in the MTH models, but had to use a red LED in the observation. A little work on the drumhead led fixed the light leakage around the rear drumhead. I shielded it with some paper so it was not so bright.

CZ

Amazing, another high priced dud. A friend of mine bought one, same problems. I don’t model the SP so its not on my shopping list, but sure sounds like a newer Bachmann GS-4, some lead weights and a good sound decoder (if your into that stuff) would be a much better investment.

Trainworld has the Bachmann model for $119.99, another $119 for a Soundtraxx decoder and away you go, half the price of a Broadway or MTH.

I know many of you are laughing, but that same guy I know who’s BLI GS-4 was dead out of the box, has the Bachmann model and from a couple feet away you can’t tell them apart. And the Bachmann model is the new improved Standard line version, runs good, could use a little weight.

I have nine pieces of BLI/PCM - four of which where duds in one way or another.

The steam loco score here on the Atlantic Central remains:

Bachmann - 30

BLI - 5

Proto - 4

Brass - 2

Mantua - 2

IHC - 2

Athearn - 1

MTH - 0 (i still say when they make one DC that interests me, I’ll give them a try)

Sheldon

It’s reallly discouraging to read of so many problems with such an expensive model.

I remember reading a news blurb here or on some other forum a few months ago to the effect that the Sanda Kan factory in China had told several importers that they were going to have to find a different manufacturer for their models because Sanda Kan was cutting back on production.

Perhaps BLI is one of the ones who had to scramble and find a new supplier.

I’d too like to know if they have a new factory too. I’m considering several new Paragon 2 Heavy Mikados.

My Blueline Heavy Mike works great and is one of my most dependable locos. BLI’s chuff sensors go out on new locos though with some frequency. They say they’re looking for a better “solution”.

I’ve posted the question of a new factory on broadwaylimited’s forum. I’ll see what answer(s) I get and get back to you all.

I had not heard of that problem but you could be correct that BLI had to change builders in a hurry. The sad ending to this story is they have been advertised now by BLI now for almost four years and could have been built by some company that had a wheel gauge.

I ended up with two reservations but don’t really want any now. The one has already arrived and been paid for so that is a done deal. I am sure BLI does not want it back either, knowing the problems that showed up with this model. Mine does run and it probably will be OK after all of the so called sound equipment is removed and new installed providing no other major problems show up like some of the reported ones I have read. The gear box cover holding the worm is fairly common problem and the out of gauge drivers seem to common also. One guy has reported he had to pin the cover on to keep it in place. Those problems should never happen with a model train and that type of erro should be caught in “QC” or in the case of the new GS4’s, ANQC!!! Most of us cannot regauge driver wheels correctly.

This problem causes me to consider cancelling all future orders until they start to get this type of problems in control.

CZ

CZ, to me, the problems started with the 2-10-0 a couple of years back, and it all went downhill from there with the notable exception of the Q2. It is the only new BLI engine I have purchased in the past five years, and by new I mean newly offered and produced…first issue. Their older engines have all been gems for me, but on their forum and on others, the I10, newest Y6b, and now the GS-4 have all had rather disconcerting QA problems.

BLI simply MUST fix this! If they have had to change manufacturers, tell us so we can understand that there are some natural learning curves going on for all concerned.

Some buyers report having to send an engine back twice. What’s up with that!! Their costs should be refunded.

I have half a mind to cancel my UP 9000 order…it won’t materially change anything since it is on its fourth delay anyway, and not any closer to my possession. [:|]

Crandell

Crandell

I know how you feel about the disappointment of their quality and I agree with you that they must fix this problem ASAP! They have made some very nice models in the past and I hope they get back on track so to speak! The 4-12-2 is certainly one of my favorite models as I now own several already, but wanted one to run with DCC and sound and the BLI should be a nice one if they can get the builder to do the job correctly.

Lets hope they get it right on the next few models because this type of quality or lack of it will hurt the sales of future models since our confidence level will be very low for some time. I have not cancelled the brass hybrid 4-12-2 models I have on reservations because I would have to believe some other builder is making those models. I noticed the slip in the schedule on those also and would have to believe money is an issue.&n