Waiting for my Broadway-Limited USRA Mikado to get here, I rounded up a few pics to help me detail the engine to more of the Q’s version of a heavy 2-8-2. Well, I guess I got more than I bargained for.
For CB&Q #5500, I need to do quite a few things to this model:
- Generator is in wrong place-should be on right side of firebox, just above handrail, not in front of the smoke stack as on stock model.
2.“Catwalk” on left side of engine needs a stepped-up part to fit in a Worthington BL heater on left side. Air pump should then go on right side.
-
Stock model has a coal tender. CB&Q’s USRA heavies all had oil tenders, so I need to build an oil bunker. Also, end ladder is on the left side of stock model, should be on right side.
-
Railing along the boiler should curve upwards over the smokebox, then around to the other side of the engine, not curving down towards the pilot as on stock model.
These are just the major things, and since beyond this point, if I haven’t confused you already, it does get a little confusing, I have some pics so you can see the differences between the actual locomotive and the BLI model.
The first two are pics of Worthington feedwater heater equipped O-4s:
On this you can see the moved air pump and modified handrail on the boiler, as well as the oil tender.You can also see the moved generator on the firebox, just above the handrail if you look closely.
On the bottom one you can see the Worthington heater and modified “catwalk” along the boiler.
Now here’s a pic of BLI’s model (not production run)
As you can see, for a regular USRA Mike this is fine, but the Q did extensive
HI Chris,
Superdetailing plastic steamers, using brass and plastic parts, is actually pretty easy. It takes a LOT less time than working on the old all-metal steam kits, which is one reason I like new plastic steamers so much! I’ve worked through a few, from simple addition of a few brass parts, to VERY involved reworks that required basically ALL parts scraped off the boiler and re-added!
First of all, you’ll need a few tools. Xacto set is a given, along with plenty of sharp #11 blades. A micro file set is helpful, especially when cleaning up brass parts. A pin vise or push drill is needed, along with a selection of micro drill bits. You’ll need a good wire cutter, and at least one small pair of pliers. Other than these few tools, you only need liquid plastic cement and superglue, and a jar of Polly Scale Steam Power Black paint. Oh…almost forgot. You’ll also need a tube of Squadron green putty, to fill the holes!
Starting with the tender, you have three choices. You can either scratchbuild an oil bunker top out of plastic, buy an oil bunker from Precision Scale, or replace the entire tender with an oil tender from Roundhouse. Scratchbuilding is the cheapest. Just buy some .020" or .030" thick plastic and start cutting. Build the box first, test fit it to the coal space, and glue the sucker in when it looks right. Don’t worry about getting the scale exactly right; square corners and the right “look” are generally more important in modeling. Add a oil fill hatch and the wire handholds after the bunker is in place. Buying the P-S oil bunker would be the simplest idea, but I have no idea if the bunker will actually fit into the BLI tender. It’s also expensive and hard to get. Using a Roundhouse oil tender (actually a Santa Fe prototype) means you don’t have to scratchbuild anything, but you’ll have to move the BLI sound unit to the new tender. You MIGHT be able to swap just the tender shells, but I doubt it. Using the Roundhouse tender means you’ll have to get an ag
Just one more suggestion to Ray’s, for practice, one of the old Monogram/ConCor Hudsons can often be found inexpensively on ebay, and can be detailed into a CB&Q locomotive, like the one in the park in LaCrosse, WI.
[quote]
QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy
HI Chris,
Superdetailing plastic steamers, using brass and plastic parts, is actually pretty easy. It takes a LOT less time than working on the old all-metal steam kits, which is one reason I like new plastic steamers so much! I’ve worked through a few, from simple addition of a few brass parts, to VERY involved reworks that required basically ALL parts scraped off the boiler and re-added!
First of all, you’ll need a few tools. Xacto set is a given, along with plenty of sharp #11 blades. A micro file set is helpful, especially when cleaning up brass parts. A pin vise or push drill is needed, along with a selection of micro drill bits. You’ll need a good wire cutter, and at least one small pair of pliers. Other than these few tools, you only need liquid plastic cement and superglue, and a jar of Polly Scale Steam Power Black paint. Oh…almost forgot. You’ll also need a tube of Squadron green putty, to fill the holes!
Starting with the tender, you have three choices. You can either scratchbuild an oil bunker top out of plastic, buy an oil bunker from Precision Scale, or replace the entire tender with an oil tender from Roundhouse. Scratchbuilding is the cheapest. Just buy some .020" or .030" thick plastic and start cutting. Build the box first, test fit it to the coal space, and glue the sucker in when it looks right. Don’t worry about getting the scale exactly right; square corners and the right “look” are generally more important in modeling. Add a oil fill hatch and the wire handholds after the bunker is in place. Buying the P-S oil bunker would be the simplest idea, but I have no idea if the bunker will actually fit into the BLI tender. It’s also expensive and hard to get. Using a Roundhouse oil tender (actually a Santa Fe prototype) means you don’t have to scratchbuild anything, but you’ll have to move the BLI sound unit to the new tender. You MIGHT be able to swap just the tender shells, but I doubt
Chris,
Don’t bother with a scriber. The key to making nice straight cuts in plastic sheeting is to make multiple LIGHT passes on the plastic with a sharp #11 blade. Don’t try to cut all the way through the plastic on the first (or even third!) pass. For plastic as thick as .040", I’ll make no more than 3-4 light passes, and then snap the material apart. I use a metal ruler with double sided tape on the bottom (only changed once in awhile) as a cutting guide.
Working with plastic is a wonderful experience. You can do anything with it you want, and it’s very versatile. Yes, it takes a bit of practice, but that’s part if the fun!