Rich, in lieu of a wrench, square-tipped pliers will do the job. Use the end face (not the side) of the pliers to firmly grip that hex-head screw on the flat areas opposite one another and twist counter-clockwise to loosen. You should then be able to remove it using your fingers only.
Re-align the eccentric crank, then re-insert and tighten the screw.
Wayne
Rich,
Ask Santa for a stocking stuffer for Your tool box…they work great,especially working on R/C Models and Trains I like them more than a wrench:
http://www.micromark.com/4-piece-nutdriver-set,7450.html
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Rich, it sounds like you have received lots of good advice so I won’t try to add too much, BUT apparently Broadway makes a “thumper” now and then as well…?
I had two BLI mikes with similar problems, binding side rods, which eventually required both locos to be carefully fully dis-assembled and rebuild from the ground up.
Problems included drivers out of square and out of quarter (very slightly) and general poor fit of thesame parts you are discribing.
Back then Braodway offered me no soultions at any price other than to sell me some incorrect parts (from a different production version, little axle bushings installed in the opposite direction) which I used as a basis to create the correct parts…
So your problem does not surprise me in the least…
Sheldon
Sheldon,
Actually, the problem with my BLI loco is similar to a problem that I experienced with an Athearn RTR loco where one of those square bearings would not stay in place. With the Athearn, the bearing continually slipped out of place whereas it only seems to happen with the BLI following a derailment. BLI did offer to repair the Mike for $65, but they would use parts from the newer Paragon 2 line whereas my loco is from the older Powerhouse series. So, I said, thanks but no thanks.
When it first used to happen, I thought that the connecting rods were binding and bringing the loco to a dead stop, falling off the track in the process and bending the eccentric rod.
But, I soon realized that it always happened on a turnout, but never on a section of flextrack. So, now, I am convinced that, upon derailment, as the loco wheels lift off the rails, the bearing slips out of place and causes the rods to jam and lock. When that happens, I have to remove the driver wheel assembly cover plate to release the connecting rods and put the bearing back into place.
While I am waiting for the new springs from BLI, I will do nothing unless there is another derailment. Once I get the springs, I will open up the assembly to replace the springs and then closely examine the bearing and its housing.
Fortunately, derailments do not often occur anymore as I have considerably improved my track work (and reduced operator error). The most recent incident was caused by a faulty turnout which has since been replaced.
I still need to consider messing with the positioning of the eccentric crank.
Rich
I thought that I would update anyone who is interested in this problem with my BLI Mikado.
BLI sent me replacement springs for the driver wheels. With my trusty Optivisor and my Kadee spring tool, I removed and replaced the springs. The originals were filled with gunk and were not functioning at all. Now, they work to cushion the driver wheels as they move up and down.
Next, I examined the bearings and the housings for the bearings. I saw no obvious wear, but there was a lot of lateral movement on that last driver wheel set. So, I took two Kadee washers and turned them into split washers and fitted them over the axle between the wheel and the bearing on each side. That really cut down on the lateral movement.
Last, I was able to adjust the eccentric crank back into place.
Now, it runs like a champ, but time will tell if the fix was permanent.
Thanks to all who offered advice and, in particular, Wayne for the eccentric crank advice and Paul for the split washer suggestion.
Rich
Hi again, Rich,
First, thanks for providing followup info as it’s instructive for us all.
Second, I’m glad you probably have the issue fixed but have a question…when you say it runs like a champ, does that mean it is not acting up in situations it did before? Or is it derailing less? If so, do you think the springs and/or lateral movement were key to that? Of course, I kinda doubt you have set up a test program of intentionally derailing it so it rolls over to see if the eccentric rod binds!
Third, I wonder if this is a problem to that series of locos (did BLI comment on this?) or unique to your loco? As I mentioned earlier, my older BLI mountain series, per my LHS guy, had some definite problems with the springs and/or journals that usually needed correcting. And my more recent BLI mikado has not had your problem…thus the question.
So if you have any insights on the above, great, but as I already said, thanks for closing the loop and glad the persistance seems to have paid off!
Paul, it no longer derails on turnouts. In fact, it does not derail at all.
Installing the new springs definitely permits the driver wheelsets to hold the rails better, and installing the split washers has really limited the lateral movement. Now, the square bearings remain in place, inside their housings.
The one thing that still concerns me is the movement of the eccentric rod and crank.It still seems to have too much play. When I talked to the technician, he did not acknowledge any widespread problem with the connecting rods on that first run of Mikados.
Time will tell if this is a permanent fix.
Rich
I thought about adding a washer somewhere after reading this thread. You seemed to have done that already. You don’t need all that slop if you have wide enough curves. Look for any burrs on the siderod for any damage from derailments, lube them up, but running it they may slowly wear off. I would put the engine in a cradle, upside down, power it and watch the action, fiddle with the rear driver see if it shows any potential locking up, it might not lock but show some wobbly like it wants to. If there is some side slop on the rods themselves, its a good idea to look for washers on either side of the rod, so it does not hit the screw. These issues are hard to find, I had to work out a short on my brass 2-6-6-2 N&W Z1a only on a curve, rod was shorting on the driver, washer solved that.