The first runs (only) of these locomotives have exhibited a tendency to break the gear that the motor worm drives. This is limited to the first run of each engine only. It is a fairly extensive problem and BLI has ordered parts to fix it. Much more information can be found in the PRR Modeling group on Yahoo where the affected lot numbers can be found.
You have a link to that group
I had it happen to the first one I bought, but with a drop of super glue, I was able to fix the problem. The loco was 6720, and it was a first run model. It still works great in tandem with another:
Still, if BLI has a replacement part, I’d advise that you do that instead. I think it was just lucky that the glue worked for me.
-Stan
This is attributable to BLI’s decision to use plastic gears, and an evident choice of the wrong plastic. Proto 2000 models, mostly those made before 2005 or so, are also susceptible to the same problem.
My first-run BLI PRR I-1 came with a cracked gear. It acted as if the drivers were out of quarter, that is, it had a hesitation followed by a sudden lurch at the same point in the drivers’ rotation. I contacted BLI, they told me to lubricate the loco, and assured me that it would work itself out.
Of course, the problem only got worse. BLI finally authorized a return for repairs, but since I work overseas, I haven’t been able to ship the loco back to them.
In addition, the first set of drivers has just about completely shed its nickel plating, revealing a copper-colored, probably brass, wheel. Another tribute to BLI’s design, they made the driver tires of brass rather than nickel silver, then plated them. When will this company learn that there were hundreds of importers before BLI, and that many of them learned that brass eventually sheds its plating?
My experience with this and other BLI models has provided me with little more than aggravation.
My M1 a cracked it center gear after about a week. I had BLI send me 2 sets and replaced it. First time I had opened a steamer. I can now field strip it like my M16 when i was in the Army.
FYI BLI will fix any problem free if the engine is within one year of its purchase date. Otherwise there is a flat fee of $45.00 to make any repair and if the repair fails or doesn’t work they will redo it free. Of course you are out the postage to send it in which can amount to quite a sum of cash if you have any significant number of BLI locomotives! From my experience I think that Mike’s Train House engines are a bit more robust and even Bachman Spectrum engines have performed better for me although they need more weight on drivers to pull really well. For sheer durability and pulling power nothing beats on old Japanese brass piece and many of them can now be had for about the same price as a new BLI offering. The Trix Mikado in HO is reputed to be the best mass production steamer on the market but you don’t see many of them around.
I was told tonight by a generally reliable source that BLI just got in a shipment of replacement parts (gears) for these engines. It might be worthwhile for those of you with problems to contact BLI and see if they have what you need.