For now I’m going Block wiring for my layout. It’s a dual main continous run with a few spurs a passing track and a small Yard. Besides the Obvious of the Passing Track and the Yard in general how many blocks should the main be divided up in ? Thanks, Dave
BTW Layout is in an “L” shelf type 10x10’ x 24" wide. “N” scale
The number of blocks will depend on how complex you want your operations to be, and how many friends will come over at a time.
If you are going to have two trains chasing each other on a mainline, you need at least 4 blocks. (One for the train and an empty one for it to run into.) One train on the main, you can get away with one block.
Operating blocks can be combinations of several electrical blocks, if you have electrical blocks because of switches.
I would put a block on each siding and a block for each track in the yard…then i’d put a lot of blocks on the mainline especially where you are going to do a lot of switching from an auxiliary track to and from the mainline…I try to put as many as one every 2’ around switching areas and one every 5’ on the mainlines… also, if you are going to put in train detection circuits that operate searchlight targets, crossing flashers, ect… wire it the standard way…electronic circuits won’t work if you wire for common rail…Chuck[:D]
As others have noted, the trade-off with block wiring is that greater complexity – more blocks – allows greater flexibility in operation. For a double-track, continuous-run main line, a good minimum number would be four blocks per main track, with the idea of allowing a train to cross over onto another main track where a second train is already running (or standing).
A whole chapter of my book, “Easy Model Railroad Wiring,” is devoted to locating blocks. It also has two chapters on cab control (block wiring), so you might find it very useful.
So long,
Andy
My thoughts on blocks is that mostly, each one should be long enough to hold a train, so a train can be parked in a non-powered section. Inner and outer loops, longer sidings (non-DCC) might be blocked, Double loops should have no common so they can be powered for each direction. I think DPDT switches, center off, so in one position it’s one big loop. I don’t want to flip switches all
the time, the mainline might use relays.
My plan is a L with mostly single main, except in city, point to point with turn-around loops for SP and ATSF in the city area, and out in the country, the same loop with double track to the loop. See www.layoutdepot.com for RTS layouts.
A train is around 11 cars to 22 cars with 2 locos, maybe 5 ft.
I wired my blocks as stated by cwclark, without a common rail because when i laid my track and wired it i wasn’t sure if iwas going to use block detection and other electronic devices.And I blocked the mainline about 5’ and seperate blocks for each track in the switching yard.Also installed LEDS on my control panel to indicate what cab is controlling which block.
Don’t forget about reversing sections – return loops, wyes, turntables, AND possibly anywhere there is a crossover (single or double) going from one of the mains over to the other.
If you have a group of switches in an industrial area or town off of the main, I would suggest you also make at least this entire area a separate block so that a loco can work around the area on one cab without there being any conflict with a train passing through the area on the main (or at least be able to stop the loco and kill the power to it so the mainline train can pass).