Mike
can I use your email address?
when I click start conversation my computer halts any attempt to add my info
Hornblower;
I think you and others about DCC are making an impression on me(hard to do tho)as of tomorrow I’m going to look into this idea further, your ideas about fixing these old BB engines is supper dupper.:).I put Kaoto motors in all of my bb engines in the past, I’ll look into the ones you described.
John
John,
Yes, Not sure if it’s visable, but if it is, go for it.
I’ll try and send you a PM, and see if goes through from this end.
This PM thing you experienced has been a problem since the “new” forums “reset”, along with other problems.
Mike.
EDIT: Nope, PM doesn’t work from this end either. I’ll try using FireFox instaed of Chrome.
EDIT: Nope, doesn’t work in Fire Fox either.
John
The reality is that if you are willing and able to install the previously mentioned DC directional lighting circuits, then you already possess the skills needed to install DCC decoders. Not only will you get the lighting features you desire, the lights will function at full brightness even when the loco is not moving. Even basic four-function DCC decoders also provide additional lighting that allow you to add Mars lights, flashing beacons, marker, number, or ditch lights. In addition to all the lighting features, the DCC decoder will provide you with much better motor control offering several adjustments to allow your locos to operate at their best. These adjustments can also make different locos operate with similar speed curves. These features are handy when you lash up multiple powered locos (no more dummies) in a consist. Best of all, DCC allows you to easily run multiple trains in different directions and speeds on the same section of track without the need for complicated wiring. No more DC track blocks or toggle/rotary switches needed! Trains will not move until you tell them to do so. You can pick up a used basic DCC system on-line fairly cheap. It may help your budget and learning curve to pick up one of these basic systems, learn to use it, then decide what features you really need before purchasing a full-featured system. Visit a LHS, private or club layout in your area and ask them to explain DCC and show you the system they use. Once you experience DCC, the choice to go DCC is a no-brainer!
Money is money and like thinness, most of us don’t have enough of either. A Powercab is $200. A no-sound decoder is $25 and and sound decoders are $100.
If the OP thinks DCC is too costly, it’s not our job to convince him otherwise.
bigdaddy;
to me and what I’m doing 200$ is a lot of money,to go to VA west LA 100$ one way.
I’m going to go DCC asap,a 2ftx4ft law out I think at this time DCC is over kill.
please show me where I can get this stuff for your pricing I’m willing to take a look at this thing in a different way.
John
Hello All,
[#welcome] to the forums!
Slightly [#offtopic]…
Unfortunately, this is a common misconception. Even the smallest pike can benifit from DCC (DC users add comments here…)
Yes, the initial outlay for an “inexpensive” DCC system can be relatively expensive compared to DC.
To get similar running from a DC system requires multi-cab control (multiple power packs), along with block wiring, and switching. As I’ve said before, “The amount of money I spend on wire and block switches could have paid for an entry-level DCC system.”
If you’ve not experienced DCC it’s a game-changer!
With DCC the ability to run multiple trains simultaneously is a great draw, especially for the little engineers.
Before committing further to DC, or making the leap to DCC, I would see if you can tryout DCC.
Your description of locations sounds like you are in the High Desert of Southern California- -“Antelope/Palm-Caster” area.
The Pasadena Model Railroad Museum holds periodic open houses. Unfortunately, they just had their March ones.
You might try to contact someone at the club, explain what you are doing, and see if you could arrange a visit.
I live in the mountains of Colorado. The Colorado Model Railroad Museum is 2-1/2 hour drive but the “pilgrimage” is worth it for me. You might find a visit to the PMRRM worth the day-trip.
While in Pasadena don’t forget to visit The Original Whistle Stop train shop in Pasadena proper. It’s diminutive but world-renowned.
Keep the questions coming, please a
Mike
my email is listed here or if appropriate maybe I can post it?
I looked into DCC that seems the way to go for this project
John
I’m told you shouldn’t post your email on a public forum, but I think you can put it in your profile. As mentioned, we can no longer message one another.
Modeltrainstuff has the powercab for $195.
An NCE Nonsound decoder is $26.36, less if you buy a four pack. This particular board was designed to replace the circuit board used by Atlas and Life Like. I think it would work with a BB, but our friends will tell us if I am wrong.
An ESU Lok-Pilot (non-sound) is $30. I’m not a fan of digitrax.
DCC stores I would recommend are Yankee Dabbler, Litchfield Station, Streamlined Backshop. Tony’s Trains is on hold, pending better reviews.
Should you decide to go sound, you need to tell them that in the case of your GEEP you need them to load the EMD 567 engine sound, at least you do for ESU
My email is listed too, but neither of our emails can be seen by anybody but us. You, in your profile info, and me, in my profile.
If your going to go to DCC, the boards I have also have the DC jumper. You can remove the jumper plug, and plug in a decoder, although it would be the older 9 pin type, which will work fine.
I guess it’s up to you, just how you want to go with DCC. For the blue box locos, I always hardwired the decoder in, it’s not hard.
Are you on any other social media? like Face Book, Twitter or Instagram?
Are you on any other forums, like Atlas rescue forum, Model Railroad Hobbyist (MRH), which are the two I use other than here.
Do you an Ebay account?
Just trying to think of other ways we can connect, as it’s just rediculous that the PM feature in here doesn’t work.
Mike.
Mike.
Mike;
I have been kicked off all social media, eBay ( goofygrape426), and I’m going to try to join Model Railroad Hobbyist. the decoder I have is 9 pin Digitraxx, I think.
I’m going to use DCC and run the Dc ones, also My wife said I have two engines that are DCC.
Thank You for all you’ve done for this project!
John
Henry
I am going to due DCC, one engine is going to stay DC tho all others are DCC, I was going to use Digitraxx 9-pin, which can be hard-wired to the engines, I’ve seen drop-in decoders that fit sound or no sound. streamlined Backshop is at least talking to me about this.
thank you
John
Digitrax DSH166ht
these are what I purchased
yes I’ve got an Ebay account
You never ever, ever, want your DC power pack connected at the same time as your DCC Powercab is connected. Expen$ive $moke will escape.
Maybe the DH166MT ?
Digitrax has nothing listed as a DSH166HT.
Mike.
So the idea is to run a DC engine with a DCC system. This can be done, but do your homework. I know Digitrax systems allow that, but I don’t believe they all do. Another option is to install a switch, that directs your track to either a DC power pack or your DCC system. But then, you need to make sure your DCC engines are DC-enabled. Since you only have one DC engine, I suggest you go DCC-only. Just check if the system you will be buying can run your DC engine. Or convert your DC engine to DCC…
Simon
snjroy;
I am going to convert all the engines to DCC, no dc (GP9,GP35 and a GP38-2)
I thank all who have helped me in this project.
John