A few years ago when I was first attempting decoder installations, I used two of my dad’s athern BB’s to install a digitax 123. They ran ok for a bit, but never really good, dependable runners. Now, they barely run at all and have been downgraded to siding security status. Is there a recommended motor upgrade? I am guessing the original BB motors pull too many amps for the newer decoders. I would like to keep them DCC, but if I have to convert them back to DC, I will.
Rich
So, first off everyone will want to know what are the loco’s in question, GP7s or ??? Next, by barely run, what is going on exactly. Search the web under Athearn Tune up and you will find some options, from cleaning wheels, track, to motor and electrical tune up to complete motor replacement, your choice as to how much time and money you want to invest in them. Sometimes just a simple cleaning will improve them enough that you can enjoy them again. Jim
This Athearn tune-up guide is a good one.
http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/Articles/Athearn_TuneUp.php
You might want to do a reset on those old DH123 decoders, or replace them with the new version, the DH126D
I’ve rebuilt quite a few Athearn BB’s, and I also replace the wheel sets with new NS wheels.
http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH40028
The ATH40029 are the 42" wheels.
Good luck!
Mike.
Rich
While a bit pricy the Arrow Hobby Re-Powering Kits are very good! I have two SD40-2 equipped with their 12600HX Re-Powering Kits that run better than new. The Mashima motors are very powerful and quite running. The current draw is about 400ma at max load up my 3½% grades.
https://ppw-aline.com/collections/diesel-re-powering-kits
I have used the Canon EN-22 Dual Shaft motors in eight Athearn Blue Box Locomotives. The Canon EN-22 is also a very powerful quite running motor. Be careful buying them off eBay as there are sellers listing the 24 volt version that don’t work very good on 12 volts. I’ve returned at least as many 24 volt motors as I have found 12 volt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flat-can-motor-has-5-skewed-poles-double-2-mm-shafts/152766691353?ha
I removed the motors and replaced the couplers from a few of them. I put in cheap Sound Bug decoders and run them as dummies.
I looked into remotoring, regearing and replacing the trucks. It was cheaper to pick up new engines, and they look nicer, too.
I found these:
I got two of the switcher ones for my cow and calf. I haven’t put them in yet, but I did check to see that the Kato motors would fit in the mounts. They did.
Ed
Thanks for the replys fellas. Both units are switchers. I think one is a SW1200 and the other is a SW1500. They barely move at all when I call up the address. The headlights will turn on and it seems like they will start surging and require constant pushing and bumping to keep them in motion. It almost seems like they need to “warm up” for a bit, but never really seem to run too well.
I am headed over to the layout in a few minutes and will fire them up and see if I can get them to do anything other than blink the headlight.
Rich
These are my culprits…headlight turns on and hear some internal humming sounds then silence. I am going to pop off the bodies and get a look inside while trying to get some movement.
Thanks again for the help fellas. Some of those links might be what the doctor ordered.
Rich
If you are able to do that more than once, my guess is that the decoder is cutting out due to overload. And then resetting later.
Might just need a slight bit of oil on the motor bearings. And/or a general inspection of the drive for problems.
Ed
Ed, that’s exactly what it does. She wants to move, hums a bit, shuts down and then starts the process over again. Once I get the bodies off I might just start a super cleaning on these oldies and see what happens. I remember reading something about these old BB’s having something called “sintered wheelsets” and needed constant cleaning. I never pursued any more info on that matter though.
Rich
The sintered wheels have a bad reputation for electrical pickup. But you say the lights lit up. If they do, then there’s contact. And there’s power to the decoder.
I think your problem is in the motor/drivetrain.
So. If you don’t touch the loco during the following process. And if you turn on the power. And the headlight lights up. And the humming starts. And then the humming stops. The wheels aren’t the problem.
Ed
The Walthers catalog / website should show several companies who make motor replacements for various Athearn units. You can also buy a new motor direct from Athearn, either an improved version of the old blue box motor, or an Athearn Genesis motor.