Has anyone got one of these yet? I have one on order and wanted some reviews from new owners of this Loco. If no one has one then I well let you know.
I will have mine on Saturday if all goes well, I will let you know how it all goes.
I think the whole dual-decoder BlueLine idea sounds good in theory – sell only the sound decoder to save money … but you still have to buy a motor decoder and install it – so where’s the money savings for the modeler? It simply makes the BLI loco list price cheaper, but it’s a false economy if you use DCC. The model is incomplete as it comes …
The “fun” becomes especially apparent when you find out all the gyrations that are necessary to get the dual-decoder arrangement to work right. Dual decoders are okay when they work right, but if you have a problem, debugging and fixing it is a total pain. It’s painful enough that I’ve vowed to never again puchase another BlueLine – and I’m replacing the BLI decoder in the BlueLine I do have because it’s such a pain to program and the sound’s only so-so.
I have better things to do with my time than fight BlueLine decoder woes. If you want to read my recommendations as to how to make the BlueLine dual-decoder arrangement at least sort of workable, here’s my recommendations.
I’ve done two blueline decoders so far. They aren’t too bad but as joe said: there really isn’t a savings when using DCC because you have to purchase another decoder to run the train.
First put the locomotive on the programming track and program the sound decoder in DIRECT MODE to the address you want. Then there is a plug that has to be moved to a different slot so that the motor decoder operates the lights.
Next, remove the locomotive from the programming track, plug in the motor decoder and place the locomotive on the main. In POM (program on the main) mode, enter the address of the sound decoder (that you just programmed into the sound decoder) into the motor decoder. Now the address will operate the sound decoder and the motor decoder. You will also want to program the sound decoder with different CV’s now to make the horn and sounds different. This too can be done on the main. when you consist locomotives, make the sound locomotive the lead locomotive…chuck
Joe
The decoder locks work fine for my BlueLine sd40-2’s. I just set CV16 to a value of 2 “(before)” installing the motor decoder, CV15 to a value of 0. After installing the motor decoder I set CV16 to one and CV15 to 0 again. To programe either decoder I set CV15 to match to unlock a decoder. For example to adjust the motor decoder I set CV15 to 1 which unlocks the motor decoder, the sound decoder remains locked. When finished I set CV15 back to 0 and both decoders are locked again. I use the same procedure to unlock the sound dec, set CV15 to 2, then back to 0 when done.
Works great for me.
Jules
All that stuff aside, I think one of the first challenges the typical modeler will face is having to tweak his/her track in one or two places. This model really points out defects. [;)]
-Crandell
Jules:
No question that using CV15/16 locking works after a fashion when programming the decoders. But unfortunately, the NMRA DCC spec for CV15/16 locking also locks CV19 – which means if you use CV15/16 locking you will have problems consisting the loco. This is a serious flaw in the CV15/16 locking scheme and in my mind makes it almost unworkable.
You will find if you consist your BlueLine using advanced consisting that the loco runs in the consist, but the sound doesn’t function.
Some systems, like Digitrax for instance, default to command station consisting, so the BlueLine loco may still consist okay. But it’s generally understood that command station consisting is not very scalable and decoder-based consisting is preferred if at all possible.
Long story short, the whole BlueLine dual decoder approach, while it can be made to work, is a powder keg that is waiting to go off. It’s out of step with the direction DCC is going and BlueLine dual decoder locos will come back to haunt you the first time something goes wrong with them. You will be pulling out your hair trying to figure out why it quit working …
I really don’t see why blueline is so bad… Took me a couple minutes to slap in a decoder, then I programmed that sucker on the mainline with both decoders in and it works just fine.
I really don’t see what the big deal is… Even if you add $25-$40 for a new decoder, it’s still cheaper. WAY cheaper on the account of my engine, managed to get a big boy for $260, which is a little more than a third of the regular price… Add a $25 decoder, it’s still darn cheap…
Just my opinion.
Mark
exactly, now for sound go with something nice like atlas and buy dcc, it may seem like alot but it is so worth it.
tjsingle
The original question - has anyone got a Duplex?
I think comments on ‘that’ particular locomotive was the question!
For instance, are the inboard sets of drivers flangeless as it looks in the ad? How does this affect perfomance?
Teditor.
I already have blueline locos and have no issues, I just wanted to know about the BlueLine Duplex and its performance. I have programmed the bluelines on OPS mode and never had an issue. These engines are priced well, I got the duplex for 209.99 and the decoder was $20. This seems to be a deal to me. Very well priced for the budget of a middle class consumer.
Well I got the Duplex and it is a very rigid engine on the track, it was stiff going at first but it seems to run better as it gets broken in. It is running ok on the turns but I am not even going to attempt it on my 18" radius tunrs at all. I know the prototype was no articulated but I thought the model might be but it is rigid. I have had no derailments but its right on the edge on my 22" turns. The sounds are nice but the horn is so lound the tender vibrates. I may need to put some cotton balls in the tender to stop the reverb. I used a TCS DP2X decoder and it makes the Duplex crawl real nice. I may use this decoder in the future with other bluelines. You have to remove the whole top of the tender to install the decoder not the coal load. It also comes with extra drive wheels with no traction tires so you can change it over. This is a nice bonus to have the wheels with no traction tires. I will post some pics once the train I am buiding is assembled and ready. My duplex is unlettered and being used in a project for Railroad days here in Omaha.
A poster on the BLI forum for HO swears that his Duplex will negotiate 18" radius curves with the flanged sets in place of the blind drivers. I told him baloney, but he returned and said his does.
How? [D)] Its a long rigid engine, I will try it but it looks scary. The wheels are right on the edge of derailing!
I see what you mean about the blind drivers, they allow the engine to pass the tighter curves. This is the first engine I have owned with this blind drivers setup. I see how it allows some give in your radius but keeps the engine on the rails. Very interesting stuff, and no with ALL flanged wheels sets i believe it will have issues with 22" if the track work is not perfect. I think they are dreaming on a 18"
I assume it’s possible to set a CV to reduce the volume of the horn, isn’t it??
You should be able to reduce the individual sound volumes. Also, I have read that applying electrical tape in strips to the inside walls of the tender can cut down on the raspy or vibratings sounds. Try volume first.
Well after running the engine for a week the engine no longer moves at all. All sounds work and after attempting to use two different decoders the engine still does not move. I might as well thow it up against the wall. The is the second engine in a rwo that has not worked from BLI. What a waste of time and money, I might as well not even buy anymore at this rate. I installed two different decoders and neither one will make the T1 move. I reset back to factory settings and again it will not move. I am at my LIMIT[soapbox]. I am almost thinking of not doing trains at all anymore since the frustration is out weighing the fun. What is the purpose of a layout if nothing you buy works?
How can you be sure the decoder reset properly? If the engine is broken, or if you can’t get it to perform, ask to speak to a technician at BLI. He can perhaps give you some help on the phone, and if not, they’ll agree to have you return it.
All-in-all, not a very happy time. It must be frustrating. I find the BLI engines to be completely reliable, but so is their service. Send it back. What have you to lose at this point?
Set it on the track and power it up then hit F9 to turn the sound off. Throttle it up and listen for the motor noise. If the motor spins but wheels dont then you have an Idler gear thats broken. If you dont hear the motor check the plug and make shure that none of the pins are bent or broken. My M1b the plug is easy to hook up but my J1 is a bear. Its recessed into the loco and hard for my big 1to1 scale fingers to hook up.
The Blueline decoder just makes sound. The TCS decoder makes it go. If all the mechanicals check out good try another decoder.
As for the tender vibrate with horn. Take some good electrical tape (3M not that vynal crap you get 4 for a buck) and put a couple strips inside the tender shell sides and that should take care of that.
My 2 Bluelines have about 60 running hours on them and still going strong.
Pete