Boiught a Blueline Mikado with sound that supposedly works in DC mode
Does the normal prelim start upsounds OK and the brake sound works but the chuff doesn’t
I think it may have worked for the first trip around my oval but hasn’t since
Any ideas of what may be the problem
BLI Blueline use a reed sensor to pick up a signal from a magnet on the flywheel. There have been issues with the sensors and wireing. My M1b had no chuff and it was the sensor was not clipped on its bracket. That was an easy fix. Check the harness from loco to tender first. Make sure there are no bent pins or pulled out wires. If thats ok then remove the boiler and check the sensor and wireing. If they check out bad an Email to BLI service will have parts coming to you quickly. Matthew has been very good in the service department there.
Pete
Many thanks
How much of a problem is it to remove the boiler ?
I do not have a Mikado but the J1 has a screw under the smokebox and 2 under the cab and it kind of slid off at a tilt. Call BLI service and they can talk you through the steps. They are great guys and always willing to help out a modeler.
Pete
Got the boiler off like you stated
There is a green printed circuit board with I assume the sensor mounted on it
I checked the wire continuity from the board to the plug and it read ok
Do you happen to have their number and a person to contact
Bob, there number is 386-673-8900 an they are very helpful as stated. Repair line open at 12:00 PM Eastern time and closes at 5:00 PM.
Bob, have you tried pushing function 8 just one time? F8 changes the volume, push 2 times fast and it will raise or lower the volume. If you push it 1 time it will kill the engine sound only, but you can still sound the horn, bell, brakes etc. I don’t have any of there steam, but my BL GE AC 6000’s and SDR-15 F8 work this way.
Cuda Ken
Hi Ken I am operating in DC --don’t have DCC
However I called that number and Larry at Blueline told me to measure the relay resistance with the mag flywheel insert lined up and off line to check for a shorted relay–Mine was the opposite it read open lined up and off line --But as I pressed harder on the probe leads with the mag lined up I saw the resisitence drop way down So I put it on the track and it worked OK
I guess the solder joint was defective so I hit it with my soldering iron --put the boiler back on and it has been chugging like the Wabash Cannon ball ever since
Many thanks to you and Pete for your help
Nice to have friendly Internet HO modeler contacts
Bob
Glad to help. Thats what this forum is suposed to do. Thank you for getting back with results and the fix. Maybe it will help another modeler.
Pete
Glad to help.
Cuda Ken