I have several custom decaled boxcars that were made for me by friends.The problem is they very light weight.What is a good way to add some weight.What would you use and how much of it.
Hmm. I must ponder the serious gravity of this problem carefully. A weighty matter such as this is hard to balance against the need for sufficient metal to hold everything down to the rail.
I toss extra Athearn boxcar weights in HO scale into too light cars. They might rattle a bit but aint been light on the wheels since.
Looks like you might be “fishing” for a resolution. I know that in sporting goods stores, or dept’s stores they may have a solution that could give you a “sinking” or "weight"ing resolution to your concern. Simply stated Fishing sinkers and a little glue.
Next time you’re in the hobby store, check out the Pinewood Derby racks. Check out the soft metal weights on hand, and use double sided adhesive tape to adhere them over the truck bolster pins. Experament and try to get the right stability with the least amount of weight over each truck.
A-Line used to carry sticky weights that you could clip off in 1 oz slices (like a tootsie roll).
If you have a drapery supply or possibly a Joann Fabrics store nearby, Buy yourself some drapery weights. They are about 1" square, weigh about an ounce, made out of lead and really thin. Drop a few spots of silicone caulk on the floor of the cars and place the weights in it! Simple, quick and neat!
Here is a link to see what they look like!
I use a couple of different methods. For cars that have limited areas to hide them I use the lead weights from the hobby shop with the double stick foam tape, for a boxcar I use fender washers from the hardware store. I keep several different sizes on hand for different weight, place them inside centered over the truck with a small dab of hot melt.
In addition to weighting the frames using methods others have posted, wrapping the axles with plumbing solder keeps the center of gravity down to an even lower level. I have done this with plastic trucks and it works quite well as long as it is wrapped tight so it doesn’t short on the center rail. I say plumbing solder because the diameter is larger than hobby solder.
Using prototype spikes appeals to me as somehow appropriate. There’s plenty of room inside a boxcar or baggage car, so the lesser density of iron compared to lead doesn’t really matter; and they’re easy to find.
There is no particular advantage to locating weights inside the car over the trucks. A weight in the middle, or distributed symmetrically in any way, will work just as well.
Modern plumbing solder is almost pure tin. For more weight, wrapping the axles with antique 50-50 solder would be better if you can find it. You will want to avoid solder with a flux core in any case.
Is there a chance of the flux leaching into steel axles? Or does it have to do with weight?
Weight.
Thanks a lot everyone,I asked and you answered.
chuffin on down the line!!!
On some of my boxcars I used a pretty inexpensive method. I glued a roll of pennies or two in them. About the same price ounce for ounce, and totally refundable if you “change” your mind.
J White
I recently bought several used passenger cars. When I removed the roof on one to replace a bulb I discovered that a previous owner had glued a couple of large castle nuts to the floor. Looked like a good idea to me.
Fishing weights. Cabela’s [some BASS Pro Shops too] has lead bars for melting to make your own weights. They work great in hoppers with coal loads. I use windshield sealing ribbon tape found at auto parts dealers [black sticky ribbon] to hold them in cars.
If it has steel floors, you could use magnets too.
Dennis
For what it’s worth, the NMRA recommended standard for O gauge rolling stock is 5 oz. plus 1 oz. for each inch of length. That means a 40’ car (10") should weigh 15 oz. I don’t think many of mine are that heavy except my diecast hoppers which are probably too heavy.
Dennis reminded me of a wish-I’d-forgotten story involving a metal-floored box car, magnets, a long train and an uncoupling track…
Just what I was thinking … would magnets interfere with anything … drapery weights seem best … you can even cut them to get perfect weight . Double sided tape/picture mounts from the dollar store for a buck and away ya go … flyin around that track with no crashes .
Your info is usually worth it’s weight in gold jefelectric … as well as many others on here . Some of the links you put on in the past are on my recorded dvd’s for reference and are priceless .
Thanks again to all who answered my question.
Keep chuffin down the line!