Although my layout is a modest 4 x 8 freight, I have a “non-streamlined” Hudson that I’d like to start accumulating heavy passenger cars for so that I can run them on another friend’s larger layout.
I enjoy kit building and have put together kits from the following companies:
Accurail
Alexander Scale Models
American Model Builders
Athearn
Bowser
Branchline (Blueprint and Yardmaster Series)
Intermountain
Jordan Models
Proto 2000
Red Caboose
Suncoast Models
Sylvan Models
Tichy
Walthers
With that in mind, how are the Branchline Pullman car kits as far as quality and accuracy? And, how would you rate their assembly difficulty. One online vendor has some Branchline Pullman kits at a very good price at the moment - hence, why I’m looking into it.
I built one several years ago, and though it’s a challenging kit, everything goes where it’s supposed to. About 200 parts, as I remember, but the kit only took me about 3 evenings. IIRC, the only problem I had was assembling the trucks themselves, but once assembled, they’re very smooth running.
The instructions on where to put the various boxes, cylinders and brake-gear on the underside of the car are kind of vague, though. I ended up guessing on some of the gear, but so far nobody’s taken me to task for where they ended up, LOL!
But it’s a nice kit, and it builds into a very handsome car.
Tom - The first question to ask is what the minumum mainline radius is on your 4x8 layout? If I remember correctly, Branchline passenger cars need about 22" radius minimum; they will derail on tighter curves. I have had that experience with Walthers heavyweights, and had to rip out and replace 2 curves on my layout that did not work with these cars.
[#oops] [#oops] [#oops] [:$]
I’ve put together the Branchline passenger car kits. One car took me about 9 hours total. They are extremely detailed and true to the prototype as far as I know.
Some of the underbody detail was complex enough to do some google research, the instructions weren’t always specific enough.
Overall, I was very happy with the look of the cars, they are museum quality. But they do require fairly large radius turns. 28" or greater is the safest option IMHO for optimal performance and aesthetics.
Tom,
The first Branchline coach kit took me 7 hours. The last one I did (I think it’s the 4th or 5th I’ve done) only took me around 2 or 3 hours. Most of that time was used up filing away the gates on every piece, not much time was used on actual assembly.
The car models themselves are very accurate and nicely detailed. When done, they make excellent models.
However, there are things to watch for:
1). Parts that don’t fit - Mainly, these parts are in the underframe area. The main beams usually need to be trimmed slightly, and most if not all the detail parts around and through them don’t fit without modification. IOW, the tabs and pins are a tad too large (or the holes are tad too small) and they all need to be filed, sanded or drilled.
2). Bolsters mishaped - On some cars, the bolster where the truck sits is warped. A little filing and may be a washer or two can fix it most of the time.
3). Roof fit - One has to trim the roof guides to fit around the vestabule walls (not mentioned in the directions).
4). Vague directions - As others said, it’s not crystal clear where everything goes on the underframe.
5). Missing parts - On one of my cars, it didn’t come with the slippery axle bearing cones that fit in the truck sideframes. Fortunately, I got some from a friend who didn’t use his (he bought metal 4-wheel trucks).
Other than these minor nits, it makes a really nice car.
Branchline kits have lots of parts, but they fit without fiddling. You shouldn’t have any difficulty assembling them. I’ve built a half-dozen, and if I was to do it again, I’d replace the wheels/axles since the ones in the kits aren’t always symmetrical.
Regardless, I wouldn’t recommend them for a 4X8 roundy-roundy as the curves are too sharp. Perhaps mass adulteration of the underframe will allow operation, the cars will look rediculous on the curves. Sixty-foot “shorty” cars are more appropriate.
If your friend’s layout has 30-inch-or-greater curves, I’d suggest using “real” operating diaphrams such as AHM’s. One of the appeals of passenger trains for me is their “snake-like,” (non-gap between cars) appearance. Gaps between diaphrams destroy their appearance.
These are nice kits, and you should have no problem with assembly. Just take your time…it is not a race. If you have tight curves, you will not be able to use the u-shape piece (sorry, the name escapes me) that “captures” the coupler box swing on the end of the car. Just use a new x-acto blade when you remove the underbody details from the sprue, just like you would for a branchline kit. I use “G-S Hypo cement” for the windows…it dries clear and does not craze the plastic. I think Micro-mark carries it.
Tom, I have built a few of them and as others have said they make a nice model. The underframe fit problems Paul mentioned was a flaw on several batches that was later corrected, but is easily corrected by any resonably skilled builder.
With the kit experiance you have listed you will have no problems. They are very similar to Proto, Tichy or Intermountain in tems of detail and dificulty.
The reason the instructions are not real specific about the underbody is because there where lots of variations on the prototype. The same floor plan car might have a different arrangement of equipment depending on built date, rebuilds, preferences of the leasing road, etc. The underframe parts in the kits are actually somewhat generic and do not represent every possibility.
There are some greeat deals out there right now as Branchline just offered some super deals to dealers.
Thanks for the replies, everyone! [:D] This is exactly the information I was looking for. [Y]
I find that most kit assembly instructions are vague in one way, shape, or form and some are much worse than others. The worst one for me was probably an MDC wood caboose. However, that might have had more to do with the ignorance of the assembler, as I think it was probably my 3rd kit at that point in time. I was (and I still am) trying to learn what all the various parts were. So much to learn…[D)]
Yes, I will take my time. I usually do, as I’m rather fastidious about detailing. And, no, I won’t be running these on my 4 x 8. The curves are only R22" and the 70’ cars would look awful negotiating them. They’ll look and operate much better on my friend’s layout, as he has - I think - curves in the R36" or R42" range.