It takes me FOREVER and an ETERNITY to get on this #*&(^%$@ website!!! I keep getting “Safari redirects” when trying to respond to a post. I FINALLY get on, sometimes after DAYS of trying and I have contacted these people SEVERAL times and all I get is a runaround when I KNOW what it is. It’s THEIR FORUM SOFTWARE!!! Not enough bandwidth.
Okay, so hi Ken,
If I get a chance I would like to post what I want to do.
I want to model the Wingate layout but it’s REAL tough for me and ENDLESS frustration because I just cannot seem to think in three dimensions. I know I have mentioned this before but this is a REAL SERIOUS ISSUE with me.
So I feel like a deer in the headlights.
What I want to do is Wingate like I said and I posted a picture of the layout before but I wanna change it. I don’t want that backdrop splitting the layout but I still want the river. I want to use the mining company and some of the other structures I have.
No elevations at all. None, zip, nada.
Now, there’s a bridge on a curve which is a HUGE headache for me because there aren’t ANY bridges that are curved so
Hi Ken, I guess. Yeah. But will this cost anything for you to do? Because I can’t afford to have a pro do all this CAD stuff. This is driving me crazy. Flex track isn’t as easy as it’s cracked up to be. I don’t even know what to lay down first and where.
Paul, I’ve been busy (among other things) helping a friend try to straighten out some electrical problems with a car, but I’ll see if I can make some free time this week for a visit in person. You have my number, call me if needed.
I 've made a dedicated “new map” for BITMAPdrawings. When uploading a pic into Photobucket using “upload / select” you will find the map where you have stored your pictures.
Hi Paul,
start with making a copy of the Wingate plan and draw the gridlines on the plan yourself.
The best way to start laying track is to begin with the turnouts.The gridlines will come handy. Then the 180 degree end-curves should be laid out. A yardstick or templates are needed to get that done properly. Closing the remaining caps is done last. I found a good book very helpful, however those were the days before the WWW. For laying out handmade track, I needed a model railroad friend; looking back more for encouragement then for anything else. You will find your way.
Hi Paul, I have tried starting with the turnouts but it is still difficult. My son even drew gridlines on the plan but it’s not accurate. I wish I could express in words how frustrating this is for a newbie who has no one to help him in person. Once I can see how it’s done and get some help I’m sure everything else will fall in place. I have tried using a yardstick and a pen but nothing seems to line up and it’s hard to keep the flextrack in place even with pins. I am THIS close to giving up.
As far as making turnouts fit, just get one each of what you think you need, make photocopies, and place them on the table top to see how the trackwork flows through them. Once you are happy, then start investing in your turnouts. Saves a lot of time and effort.
I have never worked with Walthers flex track, so no help there.
I have tried Peco flex track, and I hate it. It bends all over the place like a snake, and it is hard to restores it to a relatively straight section.
In my experience, Atlas flex track is the easiest to work with, and it is all that I use anymore.
I differ with Paulus Jas on the installation of turnouts. I never put down the turnouts first. I lay the flex track until I get close to the desired position of the turnout and then I install the turnout.
Paul, on getting on the site, have you tried Fire Fox? I believe you are using a Mac. Couple folks in the dinner use Mac’s and have no problem getting on. Drop by I will buy you a beer and ask about the Mac thing.
First I made some paper tin plates by tracing around some 18 and 22 inch turns. I know, you are using flex track.You can make a big compass with a pieces of wood with 18, 22. 24 or what ever radius you need. Then I used push pins to lay the tin plate to see how it felt so to speak. (You can see some of the tin plates I had used)
Next, I tested fitted my road bed, I use cork. In the above picture you can see it being held down with push pin’s. When I was happy, I traced the out line on both sides and pull the road bed. I then spread my latex chalk and applied the chalk and held in places with the push pins.
My next step (we talked some on the phone) spayed a guild coat on the cork (don’t think you can do this with the woodland scenic stuff) and sanded the cork with 120 grit sand paper to make smooth. You might want to do this step on the foam bases where the track will be laid then glue down the road bed.
Then I tracked down my track with track nails and give it a test run. (after I add the need feeders) Unlike many here, I do not chalk my track down, I added a few extra spike holes with a 3/16 drill bite. Once (in my case if) I add ballast it will hold the track in places. My K-10 Mining section has been up and running for 4 years with just the track nails holding it in places!
Far as the Flex Track, I have never used Peco. I am off Thursday, up want to talk on the phone? It can be a [banghead] at first, but you will ge
You’re welcome Paul, it was a pleasure to meet you and help get you started and be able to share my knowledge and skills.
(For everyone else) We worked off and on for the better part of 12 hours tonight … probably closer to 3 hours of actual work, and the rest of the time, waiting for adhesives to dry, test fitting and mocking up track, rearranging (mock ups of) structures, question-and-answer, and general chatting.
BTW, dinner was delicious. [dinner] Thanks!
I look forward to another visit sometime.
Looks around “The Cave”
I have a LOT of cleaning to do before I should even consider guests.
Well Rich, you’ll be seeing more as time goes by. Been busy doing other things today.
I can’t really take much credit as Brad showed me as he went along but I learned a LOT! Now I can press on as time permits and no more “paralysis by analysis.” [Y]
