I am absolutely new to model trains. Always have loved them, and now I want to start up my own little set. I just had a few questions, and they may be totally newbish, so I apologize if I annoy anyone (if they are often asked)
What are the differences between DDC and Analog? Is it just in how the engine receives power? Is there different tracks associated with them, and can they be used together? What would you rather recommend to use?
Iām starting off slow with my build, so I going to get an engine first. I was going to go with HO scale. I was wondering what I need to watch out for when choosing an engine? Any critical advice?
Does Model Power make good engines? Or are they crap? Are Bachmann trains better?
Specifically with Model Power, I notice that they are rather inexpensive compared to othersā¦ I was especially caught by the Model Power SOUTHERN PACIFIC EMD F-2 engine. .
All depends on how much or little you want to spend. DCC is the way to go and you can get a starter set for under $200 from various companies. Digitrax, MRC,and Lenz are a few to check into. As for locos, I think most folks would agree that the old Athearn Blue Box are the best to start with or their Genesis R-T-R line if you have a little more $$ to burn. Atlas, Life Like Proto 1000 / 2000 are other considerations to look at. Remember if you decide to go DCC you have to include the purchase price of the decoder if you want to run them on the DCC. The traditional analog(block) setup is good for a small 4x8 HO layout and by far cheaprer to operate, but the DCC systems allow for so much more to be done with the operations and equipment. Best to visit the various hobby mfgās web sites. Try www.greatesthobby.com for more info and go from there.
DCC and Analog control use the exact same track - you just need to wire differently for more complex layouts (such as those with reverse loops, wyes, etc). For something like the āTurtle Creekā featured in MR a while ago you just need a āpower busā under the rails and feeders to take the power to the rails - they say ā2 wiresā though this method will give you greater reliability - DCC systems use signals sent through the rails to communicate with locos, so voltage drop will cause far more problems under DCC than plain DC (analog). Personally Iād recommend Peco track for layouts, though Iām aware itās expensive. There are a few track systems with built-in roadbed out there though I donāt have much experience with these - Kato Unitrack seems to be very well engineered but again itās pricey - hoping others will chime in here and offer advice! One thing I can say is to stick to nickel-silver track - steel track tends to rust and brass takes a lot more cleaning.
Avoid Model Power. Iāve seen the āF2ā you mention and it looks terrible - nothing like an F2. Bachmann make better-running locos though you should avoid the cheap trainsets - these still only have one truck driven. A good loco needs all wheel drive and pickup, a can motor, and ideally flywheels. Since you mention DCC you might want to take a look at the Bachmann āE Z Commandā starter kits - these are the cheapest DCC systems out there at the moment, and they have a set containing the control unit and a decoder-fitted loco for a very reasonable price. Another good place to look for locos would be the adverts in Model Railroader magazine - thereās one mail order place (Trainworld) listing Lifelike Proto locos from $20 upwards - these are very good smooth runners and fairly simple to add decoders to. Just be careful of the cheap LifeLike range (non-Proto), these are not very good runners (only one powered truck). Hope this helps and good luck!
There are over 15 loco manufacturers listed in the Walthers reference(catalog) and in a
nut shell, itās whatās under the hood that counts, not the outside flashy appearance.
We too have Chevies, Cadillacs, Chryslers, Fords, Hyundais, Hummers, Lexis , Toyotas
and LEMONS too.
We can save you some grief & money too so when you narrow your search down come
on back & post your intentions.
You got a round trip unlimited pass on this track so use it.
Well, I am on a tight budget for one thing. Which is why I only wanted to pick up an engine to start off. I actually like the look of the Model Power F-2 engine, even if it isnāt realistic. Itās fairly cheap (about 20 bucks), and as long as it isnāt a piece of crap, I would get it. But, then comes the analog/DCC thingā¦
My main concern right now is starting off on the right foot, i.e., choosing analog or DCC. Iāve been trying to find info on the major differences between the two, but am not having much luck yetā¦
Track size is only mildly important to me right now since, well, I donāt even have an engine or power pack :Pā¦ But, is analog only usable for 4 x 8 track layouts? If you wanted to go bigger on analog, it is possible? Such as, using multiple power packs for a double-sized track layout?
Iām not DCC but I will still get to HO heaven with DC. It just will take me a little longer to get
there.
Getting off on the right foot deserves your review of the merits of DCC and a reliable
locomotive.
Had I known a little bit more of DCC seven years ago I would be able to climb that grade.
I have just started out (also on a limited budget), so this is just my personal experiences so far, I would start with a Bachmann EZ command & Engine package ($78 (plus shipping) from www.wholesaletrains.com) buy some Atlas snap track (you can get a starter set of the regular for under $30). The train that comes with the EZ command is already equiped with a decoder and will run straight away. The EZ command will also run 1 non-decoder (DC) engine along with probably 2 or 3 decoder equped engines (out of the box, upto 9 with a power booster). You can also buy Bachmann DCC equiped locos from www.wholesaletrains.com for around $26 (plus shipping) if you want a different loco from the choices with the package set (EZ Command is $53 on its own). Currently only Diesels are offered this way by Bachmann. This would get you up and running and would give you a good beginners starting point for low initial outlay. You can then branch out into higher quality (and cost) locos as you gain experience.
For inexpensive, but very good smooth running locomotives check out Train World. I picked up a Proto 2000 FA2 /FB2 wor $49āand both units are powered and DCC plug and play ready. They have S1 switchers for $29. These are better than average Locomotives with good detail for just over the price of the Model Power.
Also, keep in mind that with analog (Straight DC), the bigger the layout, the more blocks ou have to wire. With DCC, your wiring will depend on the number of power districts you need. Hereās a good link to DCC wiring- http://www.wiringfordcc.com/
Go to www.google.com and enter āTrain Show ā and find yourself a show to go to. They usually charge a few bucks to get in, but itās a great place to look and get ideas.
Find a Local Hobby Shop (called LHS here) that specializes in HO. These are generally little shops these days. Hopefully, you can find one with a knowledgable owner who can guide you. If you read this forum for a while, youāll see a lot of discussion about buying from LHSās vs. buying on-line.
Either standard DC or DCC will handle any size layout, but larger layouts require more planning and possibly additional āstuffā. The size or number of the DC power pack(s) has more to do with how many locomotives you want to run at once than size of the layout. Same with DCC boosters.
Iām in the middle of building a substantial (40 x 14) N-scale layout. When I lay a section of track, I have it designed and wired for DCC. I keep a DC power pack around to test new sections to death, and when Iām happy, I hook the sectionās power feeder wires to the DCC power bus. I donāt mention that to bore you, but the moral is you could easily start off with a design for simple DC operations and later convert that over to DCC by converting the locomotives and hooking your power up to the DCC booster.
As a rule, if the layout runs well on DC, it should be fine on DCC (with some considerations). If it doesnāt run well on DC, it will probably run more poorly on DCC. So, you might build your empire and fine-tune it on DC first, then switch it over. Just design it with the switch in mind. And select DCC friendly locomotives (either decoder equipped or decoder-ready) up front.
I only glanced over the post so I donāt know if you addressed this or not: Are you wanting to model steam or diesel?
If you want to go inexpensive but try DCC, duck69aās suggestion is a good one. I picked up the Bachmann EZ Command System, w/o the locomotive, from Wholesaletrains.com, for $53.
Spacemouseās suggeston about Trainworld.com is also good. The Proto 2000 S1 is a sweet lilā switcher that you can get from them for a song. (MSRP for that locomotive is $110.) It runs smooth as glass and the detailing is very nice.
Vtsnake, you donāt have to pay top dollar for a great locomotive. I have taken my wise olā auntās advice to model railroading and I always try to buy the best that I can afford. (If I can find it more affordable, the better.) [:)] What you donāt want to have happen is to get a āpiece of junkā, as you so well put, then get frustrated before you even get started.
Vtsnake, good to have you aboard. Keep the questions comingā¦
Tom
P.S. Vtsnake, do you have a name? If so, could you include that in your profile? I always like to address folks by their real name, rather than their āsign onā name.
With DCC you control the locomotive. With DC you control the track. Click HERE for more on DCC and what is and what it does.
The loco still receives power from the rails. The difference is the decoder receives commands and power from the rails and controls the motor, lights and sound (optional)
If I understand the question correctly, the track is the same. However you should learn about power routing turnouts and turnouts with insulated frogs (a.k.a. all live). Which brings up more questions, right? Click HERE to learn the difference and HERE for information on power routing turnouts and how to wire them.
You can, but they have to be in separate sections or districts insulated from each other and probably some special wiring would be involved. I donāt know and I wouldnāt even consider doing that.
If you mean DC or DCC, I would use DCC for any layout that ran more than one train.
If you mean what brand, I wonāt recommend any particular brand. You must decide which one is right for your budget and any personal preference you have with the style, architecture and ease of use. Click HERE
Donāt let these guys scare you. Go with what ever brand and type of engines you want. The only way youāre going to learn is by finding out for yourself. Iāve got a number of Bachmann engines that run fine, but you have to oil them once in a while and run them often to keep them going. As for DCC, it is somewhat complicated, but if youāre not ready for that yet, go with the old plug in and go set up. Good luck to you, and welcome to a hobby like no otherā¦
Snake, you have received very good and meaningful advice from many people. Some of it is inconsistent with others, but that is just a reflection on a number of things: personal choices, experience, normal variations in quality control by manufactures, skill in wiring and getting track put together so that it is error freeā¦and even then, another brand of loco put on your carefully laid track will make a fool out of you.
I really liked gsetterās comprehensive answer. As time goes on you may reflect on that and appreciate it for what it is; carefully considered advice from an experienced model railroader. Please take it to heart.
You only have so many bucks to spend, so start simple (read ādoableā) with your resoures. You seem to be disciplined, and have wisely decided to put off getting what most run away to get first-off; a locomotive. Good choice. Get an affordable DC set-up built that makes you happy and proud. Concurrently, shop around and look for the best bargains on rolling stock and a loco. I suggest you buy only āDCC readyā locos, or just wait until you can get one with the decoders already installed. Theyāll usually run just fine on DC, anyway.
It would be great to have you drop in here whenever you can. Welcome!
One thing I recommend you do before you attempt any large layout project is get some experience in the hobby. Find a local club or local home layout that will allow you to work on and operate the layout. Thereās nothing like really doing the hobby with āold handsā to teach you the āropesā.
You didnāt say where you are located ā¦ if you can give us a general idea then perhaps others on here who are in your local area can get you connected. Iām in the Portland, OR area, if you happen to be local to me.
Actually, if your layout is small (e.g. 4 x 8ā), you can actually get away with just two wires: one for each track. Itās not the ideal but it will function until you get your permanent wiring installed. However, with that said, for better performance, you should really have track feeders running from your power bus at least every 3ā or so. (Some folks like to wire each piece of track.) It also a good idea to think about power districts so that you can trace and locate any shorts you may have.
As far as size or gauge of wire need: The bigger the bus wire the better. Figure 12-14 ga.stranded for your power bus; 20-22 ga. solid for your track feeders.
