Brass engine restore

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hi, new to the site and I need help. I was recently given a Brass loco, what i think is a GP-7 and I need help finding parts and repairing it. It was suggested that I come to this site and ask about old issues of magazines or access to the material covered in the older magazines to help with this project. Im going to try and post pics of the engine here for those of you that can help. Just so you know, this project is to restore the engine to its original state for me to keep. I never thought I would be able to own one, now I do and I want to see it run again, not sell it [:D]

Here is a link to the pics: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/album.php?albumid=290

2

Yes, it’s a geep, looks like an early model based on the four smallish roof fans.

There are a lot of plastic detail parts out there that you could use on this model - Detail Associates and Details West are the two big names for things like fans, grilles, pilots, etc.

Cannon and Co. makes cabs, ends, doors, grilles, roofs, etc.

You can find these parts in the Walthers catalog online.

Looks like you also need end railings and some parts for a steam generator, which is what I think is missing from the hole on the roof.

I doubt you’d find Tenshodo parts and as a diesel, it’s probably not worth trying to restore the model as though it’s some priceless antique.

With a bit of ingenuity, you could make Athearn, Proto 2000 or Kato trucks work by cutting holes in the floor.

At that point, you might as well replace the motor. Kato sells its motors, and A-Line makes popular, although a bit pricey, remotoring kits that include flywheels.

Of course, once you buy all the parts and put it together, you could spend as much as you would for a well detailed, ready to run plastic model, but what fun would that be?

Eric

3

Precision Scale Co. (www.walthers.com) Cal Scale (http://www.bowser-trains.com/index.htm) are two suppliers of brass parts. If you want to replace the stantions with proper brass ones goto http://www.smokeyvalley.com/. You can get replacement gears for the trucks from Northwest Short Line (http://www.nwsl.com/) Tell Dave what you’ve got and he’ll fix you up with the right gears. He can also fix you up with a new can motor or you can replace the motor magnets with some new powerful modern magnets, my preference would be a new can motor. If you really want to make this a runner you could just scrap the chassis and replace it with a GP chassis from Proto 2000.

You can upgrade some of the detail with parts from Cannon & Co (new fans) and Details West and Detail Assciates (both Walthers) and some others, although these parts will be plastic, but if you intend to paint the model that won’t matter.

While it will never be worth what you put into it, it could be a fun project and gain you valuable experience.

4

Jay, Modelmaker has given you most of the info you need. The arrangement of the “drive shafts” may be the most problematic part of the restoration. You may need to get a bit crafty to accomplish this. The original “flex” tubes (red remnants) from motor to truck as well as the truck to truck shaft under the chassis. If NWS can’t help w/ them, try Proto Power West. I would replace the motor w/ a newer low draw can and position one flywheel. The weight will interfere to use double flywheels. There is enough room to fabricate aditional weights and the existing could be cut for flywheel clearance if desired. One flywheel would be sufficient though and save a bit of work. I would try Detail West and Cal Scale first for many of the missing parts as they offer the most assortment in brass as compared to plastic. Overland used to offer a wide range of detail parts, but has since let the stock dwindle and don’t supply them anymore. The Smokey Valley Stanchions would be the best choice for those missing end rails. The rail itself can easily be bent from .015" brass wire and soldered to the uprights (stanchions). CA will work if you feel you are not comfortable w/ soldering ability for a precision joint. This would hold true to secure many other details missing also

As to the driveshafts, I have only modified a couple. Replacing hex drive and mounting and sizing the rod, and have used flexable “hose” for a few also. But there are numerous methods that can be used. If this becomes a serious trouble spot for you, there are quite a number of folks here that can help you out to accomplish this.

5

I re-motored several Tenshodo geeps for a friend, but when Atlas and later Proto released their versions, he shelved them all, as his interest was in locomotives that ran and pulled well. The Tenshodos’ gearboxes couldn’t compare to the more modern offerings, and their brass wheels were sometimes iffy for current collection - I don’t recall now if they were originally plated or not, but he was the only guy I’ve known who actually wore-out locomotives because he ran them so much. I also re-motored quite a few brass steamers for him for the same reason.
He later gave me the Tenshodos - I recommended that he sell them, but he insisted, even though I made it clear that I had no intention of keeping them. In retrospect, I probably should have removed the can motors before selling them. [banghead][swg]

Wayne