I am trying to find some good information regarding locomotive break-in and maintenance. I recently acquired a couple of unopened brass steamer’s. I’m trying to figure out an appropriate break-in period and lubrication methodology for them.
Can anyone give me any helpful information?
Break-in is a very variable practice - I have some locos that ran superbly straight from the box, and others that needed some break-in time. I’ve heard of old Trix steamers from the '50s that have taken 30 years to bed down!
I’m assuming the drivetrain on these locos to be all-metal? if so, I’d suggest using a light oil on motor bearings, axle bearings, and coupling rod joints, and grease in the gears. A small amount of grease in pinpoint axleboxes is also helpful.
Break-in varies depending upon the quality of what you are starting with. Generally, I start by tearing down the engine and removing any flash and excess OEM lubricant. I usually remove the motor and run it in on the bench first. For non-can motors, I will first disassemble the motor to remove the brushes, then poli***he commutator with 600 grit sandpaper cut into a tiny, long strip. I look for axial end-play in the armature and install shims to minimize it and center the brushes on the commutator. I lubricate the motor journals with a tiny drop of transmission fluid (never oil - it oxidizes and gums up). Then run the motor at varying speeds, both directions, until the voltage can be turned down to almost nothing and you can count the motor revolutions!
I disassemble the power trucks on diesels and clean and lightly lubricate the gears. Clean / polihe wheel treads of all drive wheels (chuck them in a drill motor and polish with at least 600 grit paper.) The axles are gauged while out of the truck. On steam, I polihe journals and the axles where they contact the journals, then gauge each axle and lightly lubricate and re-assemble. The mechanism is tested for free-rolling on the table top. Diesel trucks should roll freely (without the worm gear), and steam drivers should roll freely and not bind in either direction. If any of the valve gear is bent, GENTLY straighten and align it so that it moves freely and does not interfere with anything else. Lightly lubricate all pivot / sliding points.
Reassemble the motor to the engine and then run the engine, looking and listening for anything that is odd. Make sure your electrical connections are good and you are off to the races.
I use only Dexron II automatic transmission fluid for lubrication. Oils eventually gum up due to oxidation and grease gets squished out of the places it needs to protect. Transmission fluid is compatible with the metals and plastics of the models, it has a constant viscosity over a broa
mcouvillion;
Good advice. I would like to add a couple of suggestions.
First, if the locos have a rubber (neoprene) tube between the motor and gear box replace this. These deteriorate over time and generally weaken badly with age. I generally replace these with either a NWSL (NorthWest ShortLine) http://www.nwsl.com/ universal set, or use a new piece of tubing if there is not much space between the gear shaft and the motor shaft.
Second, when doing the “free roll” test on the mechanism, use a pane of glass or a mirror. Roll the mechanism across the glass by just pushing on the ends, do not push down on the mechanism to make it roll. If the mechanism rolls across this glass without binding, then your mechanism doesn’t need a break in period.
I like to use wahl’s clipper oil to clean the track and i use graphite powder on the gears of the engine trucks…the transmission fluid also is a good idea…Chuck
CJCresent:
My workbench has a glass top, so I do what you advise already. You are so right, if it rolls freely on the glass surface, it is ready to roll! I actually “race” the pair of diesel trucks to see that both roll at the same speed and the same distance after setting them up. It is amazing how far they will go once they are cleaned and lightly lubricated.
Mcouvillion,
Great post. I had not considered disassembling a new unit, but your method makes good sense and helps prevent problems later on.
I did notice that my P2K GP9, which I bought new, seems a bit “stiff”. I realize that it likely sat on a store shelf for several years. I plan on taking it apart and giving it a thorough maintenance service.
Though I have a couple of different lubricants for model locomotives, I’m going to give transmission fluid a try with this unit, especially since I have bottles of the stuff!
Peace and High Greens.