I’ve heard some folk talk about breaking in a new engine. Is their a need? I havn’t seen anything from any manufacturer, so assume it isn’t really necessary. Or, is this more typical to HO and DC motors?
Any one have any ideas or thoughts? (On this)
Interesting question. Some manufacturers have recommended lubricating and/or breaking-in for at least some of their brand-new equipment. I suspect it is more important with locomotives that have metal-to-metal contact, rather than metal-to-nylon or nylon-to-nylon.
With some locomotives now costing more than my first “new” car, what could a gentle running-in period hurt?
For a number of reasons including chemical incompatibilit and lube throw-off/creep, lubrication raises more issues than breaking-in does.
(Please note that I have resisted the temptation to confess that “breaking-in” was the method by which I acquired most of my train collection.)
wolverine49
Don : whenever I get a new engine, I run it in reverse as much as I run it in forward the first half hour to an hour. I know I read that long time ago, but I really don’t know for sure if it is good to do or not, but I would think it it is for the teeth on the gears to get broke in a little maybe.
Thanks,
After a complete teardown and relube, I’ll run my engines in a stationary stand for ~ 15 minutes at 8 - 10 volts, reversing direction every 3 or 4 minutes. You can actually watch the amps drop as everyting sets. This also gives a chance for excess oil to fly off someplace other than on the track where you’ll be cleaning it off later. An easy break in would only help I’d think.
Jim
I run mine first, slowly for about fifteen mins in each direction, set as low as they’ll go without stalling. Whilst running I watch closely and listen to detect anything untoward and if I find something I fix it, if not I dont tear it down unless its dry which seems to be fairly common.
I notice things like, the traction tyre causing the engine to wobble, under gauge wheels causing it to ‘hunt’ from side to side, noisy valve gear requiring some adjustment or shimming and in particular pay lose attention to the mesh of the gears because if somethings wrong the damage will happen fairly quickly, though it doesnt seem to ever be bad enough to stop them running.
My 4-4-2’s gears were loose on their pivots with excessive side to side play I couldn’t easily do much about the pivot problem but I shimmed them with thin washers to stop the gear from rocking side to side.
My noisy valve gear was caused by the connecting rod angle making the tongue that fits into the crosshead, cant over and twist the slide. Again, I fixed the problem by shimming the connecting rods and coupling rods and the problem would go away completely if I had a wheel puller because the wheelset is under gauge.
I figure this looseness is quite likely deliberate to make 0-27 curves easier to negotiate and the treads are wide enough to let it work.
When the train was fresh out of the box I measured the voltage it took to get it to start and after lubing and shimming the startup voltage dropped. Then I ran the engine at varying speeds forward and reverse for a couple of hours and ever since then its been as smooth as silk and does well in either direction.
Its my opinion that ‘breaking in’ makes all the difference even with todays much better tolerances and materials. ‘All the difference’ just means the fine line between running like a Rolls Royce or a (low end of your choice). However these things are so tough that in all likelihood all that care is as much a personal feti
I have a Lionel MOHAWK from 1998 and with it came a set of instructions to breaking it in. Lubing it up and running it at slower speeds first.
laz57
I’m curious what the solution for engine wobble would be? This newbie just unpacked a polar express Berk to find a fairly significant engine wobble at all speeds. My unexperienced diagnosis did lead me to suspect a drive wheel or wheels that seem to not be spinning straight, including one traction tire wheel. Will this wobble improve or correct itself with break-in?
I have recently read of a engine that was so tight with the tolerances, that it would hardly move. Once it was properly broken in, it was a very smooth runner. I plan to break in all my locomotives.
Dennis
I lube them, and then run them for a while, alternating foward and reverse before they are made to pull a train. Short trains at first until all runs smoothly, then I will let them pull the heavy stuff.
Jim
One more guy here to tell you that breaking-in an engine is good. My new 3rd rail brass engine ran very rough the first two runs around, but after ran very smooth. The more I run it, the better it runs. I guess common sense tell us that a brand new engine weather it’s a lawn mover or a new car or a locomotive has to ran better after it’s broken-in. [:)]
It is highly recommended that, like anything else, you give your new engines a good start in life.
I recommend a few hours on tubular track [:D]
When I worked at Lionel in Mount Clemens, MI, the last thing on the end of any engine assembly line was a break-in stand, on which an engine was run until a timer shut it off, after which it was run on a test track where it had to make a left for 90 degrees, then a right for 180 degrees then go up a grade. The run was timed and the track voltage was fixed, rejects might get more break-in time or might be set aside for repair.
No idea if the same is done by other companies or even by Lionel’s overseas manufacturing.
I didn’t receive any direct responses or could find out this answer myself so I decided to return the engine and exchange it for another one. The replacement seems to be mint, has none of the problems appearent on the original, and runs straight without the wobble.
Perhaps a little run time may have evened out the traction tires but I suspected the original may have had bent axles or a problem where the wheel attached to the axle, and bent side rods.