Briar Rose Central

[swisstrain]

Since I started building now, I decided to start a new thread, separate from my earlier design thread - see here: https://forum.trains.com/t/design-for-new-layout-input-welcome/405367.

To recap, after input from several here on the forum, I ended up with the track plan below:

My pike is strictly freelanced set somewhere between 1900 and 1930, I enjoy steam, on the smaller side. It allows for continuous running (because I sometimes just love train watching) as well as some switching. It will also serves as a diorama for various structure builds completed, in progress and planned, my favorite part of the hobby.

For the time being, this is a weekend project, so there won’t be daily updates.

I started on the benchwork.

.
I never “got” the idea of L-Girder benchwork and built previous layout attempts using open grid, until I decided to give L-Girder a try this time - I would never do anything else again. There are a couple more pictures of the initial benchwork build in the old design thread if you are interested.

This weekend, I started to build the backdrop. I decided to go with 0.060 polystyrene sheet, lightweight and flexible enough to be easily bent in curves. I did a previous backdrop with 1/8" Masonite, but wanted a more lightweight construction this time, and something that would bend through the corner in the upper left of the layout plan and avoid having to make a hard 90 degree corner.

I started out with two 4x8 polystyrene sheets (surprisingly cheap, at $27.00/sheet from a local plastic supplier), that I cut into two 20"x48" sections and four 20"x76" sections, leaving me 2 8"x76" sections.

I started with the harbor area:

I attached the backdrop to the layout, and am making it removable in sections for later painting or attaching a commercial backdrop.

The sheets are attached with velcro to 1x2s attached to the benchwork vertically, clearly visible in the below view.

Around the curve, from the front

and back

Ultimately, once I am done with the backdrop, I will work on making the seams disappear, but for now i want to be able to remove it in manageable sections.

Along the center of the peninsula, the backdrop will be doubled up, which I think will stiffen it up further.

This is how far I got this past weekend. More later.

Urs

[York1]

Nice work, Briar Rose Central! You’ve got a great start. I wish I lived near to your plastic supply place.

[Pruitt]

That is some fine looking benchwork, Urs! Should provide a very solid and stable base for your layout. Looking forward to following your progress.

[asardaro]

Wow, decent amount of progress. I like how you are doing the backdrop in sections for ease of handling/replacement.
Al

[swisstrain]

Progress comes in phases. Continuing to work on the styrene backdrop, starting on the other side where ultimately, the logging camp will be located. I was not looking forward to the relatively tight corner, but it worked out ok. Radius is about 5inches.

This is the back drop on the more urban side of the layout.

The backdrop consists of 6 removable panels, which I took down for painting. For now, I will paint them in a light blue color. Later, once I start with the landscape, I will be detailing the backdrop panels accordingly.

Finally, an overall picture of the benchwork with the backdrop panels removed.

[maxman]

Nice neat benchwork.

Who is the manufacturer of the roller feet things at the end of the legs?

[swisstrain]

I did get those on Amazon (unfortunately, where else these days). The manufacturer is listed as Spacecare, but I saw similar ones listed under other manufacturer names.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2G9RXW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

What I like about them is that they are not only retractable (so that I can have the layout rest on the legs rather than the casters), but also removable in that the casters insert into a bracket mounted to the leg. So when I do not need to move the layout, I can take the casters off and store them.

[maxman]

Thank you.

[swisstrain]

Another bit of progress. I decided to start with installation of my track and lighting bus (for structures) now, when I have access to the benchwork from the bottom and the top and good lighting (vs crawling around under the benchwork later). I settled on Wago connectors throughout and attached them with mounting brackets to the benchwork. I will have access to connect track feeders between each crossmember.

In the meantime, I sprayed the backdrop panels a light blue. My intent is to start with the landscape, and then “customize” the backdrop behind the scene. Since the individual panels are removable, I will sketch rough outlines on the backdrop while installed, and then remove for more detailed work.

For now, I reinstalled my six backdrop panels.

The blue spray paint did not come out perfectly even, but there will be plenty of opportunity to correct. What is amazing to me is how the seams are actually difficult to spot in the pictures, even without any blending.

[swisstrain]

After a long break, I managed to make some additional progress.

I decided to install two power buses, one for track power and one for (building) lighting while I have easy access before I cover up with the layout base. I am using Wago Connectors throughout, fixed to the cross-members with compatible mounting brackets. I originally intended to route the cables through the (visible) holes that I drilled through the cross members, but then decided to keep them along the girders for less impeded access to the bottom of the layout base. Connection points are provided between each pair of cross members on the “town” side of the layout. First picture shows access points for the track wiring (red/black), second picture shows access points for lighting.

A couple more pictures to show details of wiring on the town side.

On the more rural side, I know I will need less access points, and just extended over to this side from the bus that was installed on the “town” side between every second set of crossmembers.

[Tophias]

Swisstrain, very nice method of wiring and keeping it neat. I wouldn’t dare show you the underside of my layout!

Regads, Chris

[Water_Level_Route]

@Tophias

I wouldn’t dare show you the underside of my layout!

Same here!

[swisstrain]

Well, the layout is still young, so I might as well keep it that way for now. Once it is covered up and I only have access from below, I am worried that things will change.

[swisstrain]

Ok, a lot has changed. I retired early this year, and after some vacation time, the Briar Rose Central has made some serious progress. Of course, with all the excitement over progress, I forgot to take pictures on a continuous basis …

I first laid the track in the sections that would eventually be hidden.

Townside:

Country Side:

I am laying my cork road bed on two layers of 1" foamboard, but for the hidden areas, I am using risers to accommodate the approximately 1.5% grade. I checked access to be able to get to all areas for derailments or similar, and tested that track thoroughly, including clearances.

For the track coming out of staging, I installed an Azatrax “HexDetex” system, comprised of 6 pairs of infrared led lights/receivers, so that I can determine location of a train in the hidden area. You can see the pairs of IR lights/receivers in the above picture. When a train is detected by a pair of light/receiver (e.g. the receiver does not “see the light”), an LED comes on for the respective position.

I ultimately connected the 6 outputs on the right of the Azatrax control board and pulled wires to the townside of the layout, so that I can eventually install a small panel on the town side of the layout showing the locations of a train in the hidden area.

[swisstrain]

After that, the cork laying gang on the rest of the layout got to work, followed by the track laying gang. I installed a feeder to every single piece of rail.

When it came to the incline on the country side of the layout, I was considering risers, but ultimately decided to use a Woodland Scenics 3% incline set. It makes for a real smooth gradient, and takes the guesswork and measuring out of the equation. Installation is pretty simple - I would use that product again.

I left the are for the railroad camp, mine (or whatever it will eventually be) easily removable for now - disconnect track where the ramp ends, disconnect track feeders, and two screws where it is attached to the risers. That will let me further test out the hidden track and make adjustment if needed.

Once all the track was laid (with exception of some of the sidings), I started testing, and will run trains for a while.

I know, she does not belong on the branch line - but it is my railroad, and she is a beauty. Fortunately, laid heavy enough rail on my layout . Plus, this train is darn good at sniffing out stuff that does not work (clearances, turnouts, etc.). A first result was that I replaced the Atlas #4’s on the main with Walthers #5’s. I considered #6’s, but couldn’t fit them easy enough. The new turnouts outs in place look nice and work well.

[charlie_hebdo2]

Some great work. I also found using L girders a good method.

[York1]

Congratulations on your retirement! Thanks for posting the photos of your layout’s progress.

[Grumpy468]

Very nice detailed wiring work. Are you connecting to your track with solder? I soldered a pair of wires every 4 feet on my layout so I didn’t have any dead spots. I am interested in the way you are doing it.

[swisstrain]

Thanks for the feedback, York and Grumpy.

To Grumpy’s question re: track feeders, I am soldering. Since this is a “new” layout and the original build, I am marking my track and the spot on the layout where I want the feeder to come up and then take the track to my workbench where I am soldering the wire to the outside of both rails. I then drill the appropriate spot on the layout, feed the wire through and install the track.
Finally, I connect to the track bus via the WAGO connectors.

Hope the pictures illustrate the result.

Soldering on the workbench allows for neater soldering (but realize that while for a new build this is a good option, it may not be if the track is already installed). I was thinking about soldering the feeder wire to the rail that is closer to the viewer from the inside, but decided against it so as not to risk interfering with wheel flanges. Once track is weathered and ballasted, I think the connections will be barely visible.

[Grumpy468]

Great idea. I have only one suggestion, use good quality grade electrical solder and make sure you have an iron with a high temp. You don’t want cold solder joints.