bridge and trestle/peir sets

i was wondering if the lifelike bridge and trestle set wich is ment fir standered track can be used with powerlock track. heres what im talking about.

http://walthers.com/exec/productinfo/433-8202

any answers are apreshated.

Two things: First, 7th grade or not, you might want to really make an effort to correct your spelling mistakes before you post a question. There is a spell checking tool in MS word (if you have that program) and there are some online ones you can use as well. I’m not trying to be a teacher or a spelling “rivet counter” but realize that your words represent you. I don’t understand why people are okay with plastering misspellings and trying to justify it by making some disclaimer that will supposedly make us turn a blind eye.

Second, this is in regards to your original question. The item you linked (http://walthers.com/exec/productinfo/433-8202) is indeed meant for standard track. If you want to use it with the powerlock track, which I assume is like EZ track, you’ll have to go about it in a different way. The trestles leading up to the bridge are designed to fit around the plastic ties of sectional snap track (no molded on roadbed). The powerlock track with the roadbed is too wide for the bridge trestles. If I were you, I’d probably use the powerlock track up to the point of where the first lowest trestle meets the top of the powerlock roadbed. Then I would use regular snap track with the bridge/trestle set as it was meant to be used.

If these trestles are the same ones I’m thinking of, they slide on to the ties from the end of the track section. So, unless the ties are exposed, these trestles won’t work very well for you. It would be possible to cut off the clips and put them under the track, but then you would probably have to glue the whole structure together to get it stable enough to run trains on.

These aren’t realistic, anyway. There is no bridge structure between the trestle bents, just the track and ties. So, you’re not missing much. To make a good-looking trestle bridge, you need some sort of bridge deck between the supports.

Yes, it’s a lot more work to build a nice one, but many modellers have built their own, either from pre-made trestle bents (the vertical parts are called “bents”) or from strip wood and glue.

Give it a try. You’ve got the enthusiasm, so all you need now is patience and practice.

BNSF–

It won’t work well on the EZ track unless you glue the trestles to the bottom of the track. Or, as Mr.Beasley said, substituting Snap-Track for the trestle section. Unfortunately, the weight of the train passing over the un-supported Snap-Track will cause the sections to sag after a while, probably de-railing your train. None of these ‘over and under’ instant trestles work very well unless you’re just going to use them to plan out a permanent layout. If I were you, I’d invest in some WS foam ‘risers’ to accomplish the same thing, especially if you’re planning a permanent layout. WS makes the risers in 2,3, and 4% grades, and though they’re a little more expensive than the trestle set (but probably not my much), they’ll work a lot better under your EZ track.

Just a suggestion [:)]

Tom

ok i think i might go with the ws risers. would anyone know if the risers some up enogh for a train to pass under? and if a packenge includes the risers for it to go up and back down?

YOUR L.L. trestle set is not designed for track with roadbed. You are trying to meld two 'beginner’s products together. One has to give way - at least where the trestle is concerned.

ALL Atlas track (without roadbed) would solve your problem. ‘Speling’. is another mater.

BNSF–

You’ll probably have to buy two WS riser sets, one up and one down. It’s going to depend on how much room you have on your layout as to which grade per-cent you need. The 2% is going to take the largest amount of room to rise to 4" (which will clear your lower track okay), the 4% is going to take the least amount, but the grade will be pretty stiff. Actually, I think the trestle sets are about a 4% grade anyway, so again, it depends on what amount of space you’re using for your layout.

Tom [:)]

My granddaughter, who is in the fourth grade, has a better understanding of the rules of capitalization, spelling, and punctuation. While it is easy to attack the obvious lack of literacy of this young lad, I would like to put it in perspective.

The people who read the evening news in most cities do not seem to understand that our language differentiates among past, present, and future tense.

The President of the United States of America can’t pronounce nuclear.

That said, I propose that a solution would be to build a ramp, rather than use those trestles.

The OP’s sig line suggests he has no intention of improving his spelling, since he’s trying to excuse it by saying he’s young. (His grammar needs help, too.)

This is a shame, since he doesn’t seem to understand that, when the written word is what ‘represents’ you (as on this board), and you don’t care enough to spell correctly, you’re asking to be taken less than seriously.

He should be taken seriously:

13 year olds who think problems can be solved with guns deserve special attention.

ok , i did some reading and the 4% grade is what i want but how do i get it up to 4"? do i do a set then laydown 1"blocks under anouther set then 2" under the next then 3"? and going on a down grade can it be more than 4%?

The 4% riser set goes from 0 to 4 inches. You will need two sets. One for the up side and one for the down side.

going up i should be fine but coming down i dont have 8’ and are there any ho bridges out there that are a single track and made for 22" radius?

You should re-visit your track plan, then. On a layout I had a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, I could only run my trains clockwise around the loop for just that reason - I had reasonable grades going one way, and insane slopes the other. Build your layout and work on your track until the trains can run either way, every time, and you will be much happier.

One trick you can try to get over/under in less space is to raise one track while lowering the other. This is going to be a bit more complicated than simply using trestles or WS risers for your inclines, but it’s an option to consider.

this description might be a little veug.

what i have right now i an oval with 22" radius and two 9" straights what i plan on doing is taking out the 2 straights on one side and right as it comes of the turn it starts into anouther loop the first half being 22" and the other 20" ( witch i’ll make by alternating 22 and 18) the s curve back to the termanel. i wish i could figuer how to get a pic on here so i could show you.

I was going to comment on this, but it actually speaks for itself.

[:o)]

Find a place to store images on the web, e.g:

  1. Register for a free image album somewhere - say www.photobucket.com

Make an image somehow, e.g.:
2) Draw a sketch - use paper and a pen w/a ruler and a compass if you don’t have software
3) Make a jpg image - e.g. by taking a picture with a digital camera - upload to your PC
4) Use the upload function on the photobucket web page to upload image to web

Post link in this forum to picture stored on the web:
5) Copy URL address to picture (jpg file) from photobucket
6) When posting here, click on “image” (little icon w/tree when editing post)
7) Paste URL to picture in dialog box here and click on insert

Stein

BNSF:

You can file the top and use glue, although if you don’t already have a trestle set to use up I’d not go out and get one, because, as people said, they aren’t very realistic. The WS risers would be fine. I used to cobble up ramps out of scrap wood and nail 'em to the plywood, or make wooden piers. Granted, the wooden piers weren’t realistic,either, even though I used the best gray house paint I could find in the basement stash, but they got the track up’n’over, and at the time that’s what I wanted.

Other folks:
I think spelling is important, but I don’t think we need to make a federal case out of it. Remember, the schools aren’t teaching 'em the way they did before. With phonics, you got a set of rules that fit many cases - granted, not consistently, but it was better than no rules. Today they teach grammar as “whole language”, which apparently means that every word is considered in utter isolation, so poor spelling of unfamiliar words has become common. Stupid experts!

Anyway, as for silly sig statements, well, we were all 13 once, and some of us remember saying lots of things before the media latched on to a few cases, publicized them, and induced paranoia. They do that a lot.

A final point I should make is that engineers have to have the worst spelling on Earth. I don’t know how many drawings I’ve looked at with words like “searations” and “innermitent”.

Autobus:

Very well put, sir. And very true as to current teaching methods.

Unfortunately, some people would rather come down on a 13-year old for his grammar, rather than help him find a solution to his model railroading problem. This is not, I think, the way to encourage new people into the hobby.

Tom