Has anyone ever replaced the british hornby/bachmann couplers with american knuckle ones? i want to automaticly uncouple my trains, and the only way to do that with the hornby ones is with a big plastic ramp in the middle of the track. would the knuckle couplers have to be really far forward to get past the buffers?
thanks, sean
Now not being familiar with European trains and whether or not the bumpers actually work on model trains, I can only state that I would think the the couplers would only need to positioned so there is no pressure on them from the bumpers to operate properly. Also positioned so as not to be put in a bind on curves from the bumpers. This would determine the distance you asked about. Ken
I converted one car. I completely removed the Hornby coupler and mounted a KD draft box and #5 coupler. The problem is the issue of the buffers like you mention. I decided not to convert anymore cars.
The Hornby couplers are a pain in the neck to uncouple. But I have decided to leave them alone.
Kadee make a #5 coupler with an extra long shank, this may help.
Apologies for coming in here guys, I do American garden railways - in the UK. Anyway, what era are you looking at? The modern brit stock has knuckle couplers with no buffers, so no problem there then, these are in fixed rakes though and I have to say I’m not to sure about mating up with older stock. However, the only way to model older brit stock accurately was hook and loop with sprung buffers, a bit tedious. The secret with KD’s is to extend the coupler and cut back the buffers - or spring them! The question is, is it worth it? The buffers would only be a problem on a layout curves, not uncoupling - wouldn’t they?
Cheers,
Kim
The newest Bachmann and Hornby has NEM pockets which a kadee No. 18, 19 or 20 coupler, (different length shanks), will fit but I’m afraid it’s a case of buy one of each type to find the most suitable. As a rough guide, ignore the front moving part of the knucke, I look for the inner face which is part of the solid shank and have this level with the face of the buffers.
Which one you use will also depend on how sharp your curves and point (UK)/ switches (US) are or you will get buffer lock when you push stock.
Buy a kadee height gauge as some pockets are set too low and the stuff that is fitted as standard on Bachmann is sometimes too High!
On older stock the best solution is to body mount a No. 5 coupler in its’ box under the bufferbeam and secure with a small self tapping screw as the plastic is very slippery and you need a good glue like plasticweld to stick it, superglue usually needs the surface roughing up to get a bond.
I’ve mounted No. 5 couplers on the Bachmann 159 and 170 units and get close coupling that works on 2 foot radius curves as there are no buffers to get in the way.