Ok, so I got my new Hudsons a few days ago and I have been haveing a ball. (More info and pictures later, still putting them through their trials) But tonight as I prepared them for there first operational run, I ran into a litle problem… No working front coupler.
Well, there is a coupler, a non working show unit. Looks good, but worthless. It apperas it just slips into a socket and “clips” into place. As far as I know, there is no provseion for a standard Kadee type coupler. Does anyone know what am reffering too? Do they make couplers that work for these? I planned on useing them for road switcing and not haveing a front coupler kinda… well [V]sucks. Any advice, please chime in[:)]
WORKING front couplers (steam) use to pull pilots off when double heading, plus are needed to be oversized for strength and grip. Save your efforts for ‘duplicate’ and matched engines - such as Spectrum 2-10-0s with identical wheel size -
Well, its not so much of an issue of double heading, its an issue of not being able to switch with them. I was planning on useing them for all general purpose duty on my layout and I need to figure out a couple for the front that works. Before I go cutting up the front, I want to make sure I run though all of my options to see if anyone makes one for this application.
Big John–if it’s a dummy that ‘clips’ into the pilot, you might take a look at one of the Kadee replacement couplers for the NEM European equipment. I don’t know whether it would work, but the particular Kadee (#29, I think) comes with a coupler attached to a two-pronged clip that usually just slips into and snaps in the NEM coupler pocket. I’ve converted a couple of european electrics that I have with them, and they work really well. I’d take the Hudson down to your LHS and run a check with the Kadees, but if you don’t find that the NEM Kadee will work, there should be other types of Kadee that can be utilized. Frankly, I’m kind of surprised that your BLI Hudson didn’t come with an alternate operating front coupler, all of the BLI’s steamers I’m running (with the exception of the USRA heavy Mike) came with a conversion coupler in a package that just clipped in to the pilot.
Thanks for the tips an dinfo. I am going to drag it out on Monday and check it out. I will be really bummed if there isnt away to fix this. I do have a hobby shop very close that has a very supply of couplers. The other kicker was the rear had to be changed, because the back of the tender has this step, or bumper type thing that covers up most of the rear coupler. While, it may be very prototypical, its very, very difficlut, if not impossible, to uncouple it useng ny typical skewer picker. Another pain in the rear aspect of that was you coudnt pick up the car, as it was trapped by the “step”. You have to pick up the tender. [:(!] But long shank couplers fixed easy enough.
Oh, just for kicks, I went back and checked both boxes ( I got 2 of them ) and neither came with another coupler. Just the wheel tool, speaker adujster and another set of drives with the traction bands. DOH! [banghead]
Big John - Look on the Kadee site they have a conversion blerb explaining what and how to convert to working KD coupler. I’ll poke around the site and see if I can find it and post it’s where abouts. I have a Hudson as well and have meant to covert the front coupler but never got around to it.
Terry[8D]
OK It will use a #78. Look under conversions on the Kadee site. HO scale and they have a PDF file on exactly how to convert the BLI Pilot coupler with pics.
Terry[8D]