Broken Lionel ZW roller spring/arm.. help!

Anonymous · February 12, 2008, 9:11pm

I’ve just gotten back into model trains (O scale…up from HO when i was a kid!) and have decided to go the vintage lionel route.

I was given a old used ZW transformer and when i opened it up i found two of the copper rollersprings/arms were mangled beyond hope. Where can i get replacements for these? Other than these two parts (and the chewed up carbon rollers on them) the ZW is in good shape.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Jason

rtraincollector · February 12, 2008, 9:16pm

try jeff at the train tender www.ttender.com or email him at jeff@ttender.com hes my main source for any parts hes quick to ship also. and very helpfull for what you need.

ChiefEagles · February 12, 2008, 11:10pm

Can be a “three handed” job but can be done. There is an OGR backshop video and some old articles on rebuilding Post War ZW’s [I love them]. Don’t think CTT ever ran any on rebuild them. OGR run 197 starts a series on rebuilding ZW’s. I think you can buy downloads of those issues that gave the instructions.

cjmeyers · February 13, 2008, 7:37am

Train Tender or Dr. Tinker should have what you need. Ditto on the ‘three hands’. A buddy of mine and I did this exact repair on a ‘condemmed’ ZW that I got as a freebie 'bout three years ago. We replaced a copper arm, worn rollers, broken handles, chopped line cord, broken terminal screw, bad circuit breaker, missing screws and light lenses, burnt pilot light. For about $35 in parts, I got a perfectly running ZW now, and use it a lot.

If I remember, there’s a light tension spring and a mounting pin. One has to push the old copper arm into the spring a little to get the tension off the pin that holds it onto the control arm shaft. Have a helper pull the pin out with needle nose pliers, and the arm should come out. Reverse procedure for installation. I believe the outside control A or D arms were easier than the inner B or C arms. Shouldn’t have to do more than just take the lid off to remove your broken arm.

Rollers aren’t hard. Just use a pair of slip joint pliers and crush up the old rollers, and cut out the old roller rivet with a pair of diag cutters. Install the new rollers and rivet, and very lightly peen the open end of the new rivet with a nail set and small ball peen hammer. Best done when arms are out of the unit.

CJ Meyers
South Jersey

ChiefEagles · February 13, 2008, 7:45am

Train Tender or Dr. Tinker should have what you need. Ditto on the ‘three hands’. A buddy of mine and I did this exact repair on a ‘condemmed’ ZW that I got as a freebie 'bout three years ago. We replaced a copper arm, worn rollers, broken handles, chopped line cord, broken terminal screw, bad circuit breaker, missing screws and light lenses, burnt pilot light. For about $35 in parts, I got a perfectly running ZW now, and use it a lot.

If I remember, there’s a light tension spring and a mounting pin. One has to push the old copper arm into the spring a little to get the tension off the pin that holds it onto the control arm shaft. Have a helper pull the pin out with needle nose pliers, and the arm should come out. Reverse procedure for installation. I believe the outside control A or D arms were easier than the inner B or C arms. Shouldn’t have to do more than just take the lid off to remove your broken arm.

Rollers aren’t hard. Just use a pair of slip joint pliers and crush up the old rollers, and cut out the old roller rivet with a pair of diag cutters. Install the new rollers and rivet, and very lightly peen the open end of the new rivet with a nail set and small ball peen hammer. Best done when arms are out of the unit.

CJ Meyers
South Jersey

IF you follow the above, use a piece of card stock like a parts card with the string attached. This is a great spacer to insure the roller had room to turn. You do not want the roller where is can not roll. Cut a v slot in the card. Insert the card in between the roller and the copper arm. Then ping as he said. Do not solder.