Building a control panel

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Can anyone advise me where I can find parts for building a control panel for my HO DC layout? I want to include lighted diagrams showing which track is powered and the directions of turnouts.

Thanks,
Martin

2

What kind of parts? Switches, LEDs plywood, plastic?

I used Plywood, as a base and LEDs for lights. There’s no great way of showing which direstion a turnout is thrown unless you have your turnouts controlled with Tortoises. I did it by using a DTDP toggle switch, a red and green LED and a MOM switch. You first have to throw the toggle that ligts the ligt and points the direction of the switch then you pu***he MOM to power the turnout. Complicated, but it works. I don’t know a way to just push a button and have it light.

3

make the panel out of wood and plexiglass, then get all the wire, switches, leds, lights, etc at Radio Shack

4

I would disagree here. I think you pay too much for substandard parts at Radio Shack.

5

I’d have to agree. I ordered from Demar (http://www.demarelectronics.com) and got all my stuff at once. Even if you only have a small order, it’s still cheaper than the Shack.

For my turnout controls, I use SPDT momentary toggles. My turnout motors are all twin-coil, a mix of Atlas and Peco. Neither of these supports lighting controls directly.

I’m using Masonite for my control panel. I got some pinstripe tape at an automotive shop to do the track lines. I’m using $5 relays and 2-color LEDs to indicate turnout position. (The relays are DPDT latching relays, so they hold their position even when you power down, just like the turnouts.) Since the relays are DPDT, they also can be used to power signals, or to deal with the problem of wiring a Shinohara turnout’s frogs. The relay coils are wired in parallel with the turnout coils, so they throw at the same time.

If you’re using twin-coils, I highly recommend getting or building a capacitive discharge circuit to drive them. Note that if you go with these cheap $5 DC relays, you will need something like this, because the AC usually used for the turnout coils will not drive the relays properly.

6

I designed my panel on the computer and printed it out in color. I then sandwiched it between 1/8 masonite and 1/8 plex. That was perfect for 1/4 holes for microswitches. I found good switches at a surplus store for $.50. Some were 4p/dt/center off, but you don’t have to use all the contacts. I chose not to use indicator lights because I didn’t know how. Some of my turnouts are tortise and some Humpyard. They both work nice and the combination looks cool, I think.

7

Another great place to chek for parts is ALLELECTORNICS.COM. I think they have great stuff at very good prices. You can find just about anything. I used them several times. Only go to the Shack what I have too!

8

Thanks for all your comments, they are very useful. I tried ALLELECTRONICS.COM, and the site does not seem to exist. I share the negative feelings about Radio Shack; it seems every time I go in there i have to educate the staff about their own stock.

I was hoping to find a source for the kinds of lights that I could use for showing the live track, some kind of shapable low-voltage bulb. Anyone hear of such a thing?

I am using standard Peco switch motors. Can’t I just connect these directly to the AC accessory connection on my power supply? Where can I find some more detailed information about how capacitive discharge circuits should be wired?

Thanks again, folks!

Martin

9

Hmm… try this http://allelectronics.com/

10

There are in fact several ways to show directional lights for twin-solenoid-type turnouts. Simplest is to buy NJI swtich machines which have a clever and reliable system of auxiliary contacts. Another simple way is to buy magnetic reed switches. With a bit of experimentation, you can glue the switch so that it turns off and on as the turnout solenoid is activated (you’ll also need a simple relay to select the correct directional lamp). Finally, there is an all-electronic approach, but this is complex to the point of not for the faint of heart.

11

I make all sorts of panels using: http://www.hid.com/dynalaser/technical/index.html overlay material. Often on top of an acrylic sub panel which I get laster cut at http://www.pololu.com/laser_cutting.html.

The suggestion to avoid Radio Shack is very sensible. Demar seems to be reasonable, but somone like DigiKey http://www.digikey.com have very good prices, a huge range, and they handle tiny little orders just like great big ones - very well!

I am an electronics engineer, so I like figuring out ways to do things electronically. I got hold of some really small Neodymium magnets (very strong field) and glued them to the throw on the actual turnout on the layout. Buried in the styrene is a little Hall-Effect sensor that is activated when the switch is in the appropriate position, this can then turn on an LED, or bar of leds even, on the panel.

John

12

MisterBeasley…

How did you wire those SPDT to those atlas switch machines? I have never done this before and am tired of blocking up all those atlas switch boxes. Toggles would be so much nicer!

13

I’ve seen electrical switches embedded in the facia of layouts using a PVC pipe fitting to recess the switch. Anyone know where to find the PVC fitting? Checked at Lowes recently with no luck.

14

The SPDT switches are momentary toggles, center off. One power lead from your transformer or Capacitive Discharge circuit goes to the center terminal on the SPDT. The other power lead goes to the center terminal on the switch machine. Then, the outer terminals on the SPDT get wired to the outer terminals of the Atlas.

15

try www.partsexpress.com good prices on all electrical stuff…chuck

16

Gafrix:
Try your local hardware store or plumbing supply store for PVC fittings. I live in the Pinelands of Southern New Jersey. I can get pvc pipe and fittings at my local hardware store that is only 5 minutes drive from my house. There is a Lowes, Walmart, and Homedepot in at least three different directions from my house, but it would take at least 15 to 25 minutes to reach them.

17

Leon,

thanks - what I really need is the name of the part. Plenty of plumbing supplies, etc. around. Just got back from one, in fact, and they didn’t have the fitting.

I’m going to check some additional forums. Thanks again.