Building a dcc ready layout?

I’m currently re-laying the track on my 5’x9’ layout (I decided to have a 24" min. radius mainline instead of 22") and I’m using dc. However, I’d like to eventually convert my layout to dcc. I would do it now, but I just don’t have a whole lot of extra ca***o spend on a dcc system yet. I’m just wondering if there is anything I could do to my layout now while I am still building it that would make it easier to convert it to dcc later.

thanks

A simple way to make the layout ready is to use a heavy duty main power bus, and heavier feeders. I recommend feeders to every rail section for reliablity.

I use 12 guage wire for my main power bus, and 18 guage wire for feeders.

Using DCC friendly turnouts is helpful too. Anything you can do to make the layout so shorts are less of an issue will help later, and this is something you can do to help while laying track.

A DCC friendly turnout, simply put, is a turnout that’s less likely to cause shorts if something derails. To me this means the points and closure rails the same polarity as the stock rails, and a dead frog. Live frog turnouts will cause a short if you run into them from the frog end with the points thrown against you.

With dead frog, you will derail at the points generally, and you stand an even chance of just going on the ground and not causing a short.

Shorts are bad on a DCC layout since they tend to shut down the entire railroad.

I initially relied on the book, “DCC made easy” from Kalmbach. It is a simple easy to understand manual on the ins and outs of DCC. It was invaluable to me in determining tack wiring and yes you can wire up for DCC but still use it in DC until you make the jump. You we always find arguements on fine tuning wiring or decoders etc. But this book will get you off and running.

With the 12 guage bus wire mentioned perviously you can solder smaller wire to the end of it to hook into your current power supply for DC.

If you anticipate converting to DCC in the forseeable future. You may want to consider not ever wiring up for blocks etc as you do not need them in DCC.

I use Atlas turnouts and have had no problems or issues with DCC. They are DCC friendly. Installed a few peco turnouts without issue. With Peco make sure you use the “insulfrog” turnout.

With any turnout, small engines with only 2 axles or older engines with only pickup from one axle potentially you may have it stop or hesitate over a turnout. I added pickups to all wheels on a few older engines and so far so good.

The latest version of Walthers (Shinohara) turnouts are designed for DCC.The point rails are isolated from the frog, eliominating the problem of wheels short out when going through the points. I’ve installed a few and the work excellently.

I will second the new Walthers turn outs. I have about 25-30 of the older ones, and had to isolate each with insulators. But the new ones you just drop them in place. This also cuts down the amount of feeders you need. I used 12 gauge outdoor low-volt lighting wire. I bought to much from HD and decided it would make a good fit. I used 14 gauge from the power supply, and 24 gauge (CAT 5) to the rails. You should use a higher gauge if possible. I have tons of scrap CAT 5 around. All of this terminates to terminal strips with fork connectors.

Josh

DITTO!!

Gentleman,
about these new Walthers “DCC Friendly” turnouts, do they really work better than the old ones? I have a whole bunch of the old ones and they caused me more headaches then they were worth. I too am planning a new layout and would like to go the DCC route this time.

Jim