Is there any guidance on building a helix? I thought amybe someone could tell me where there are articles or instructions for building a helix.
Thanks
No matter the scale, a helix takes a lot of space! I wouldn’t go go any smaller than 24" radius on it. On my last layout, I used a train lift that I scratch-built. It’s basically an elevator for trains. When I wanted a train to go from the bottom level to the top, I ran it onto a siding that was just long enough for the train. It would then lift the entire train, track and all, to the top level where I’d drive it off onto a siding to the mainline. Did the same thing to get back down. Just make sure the lift is on the level your operating on when you go onto the siding. It’s a long way to the floor! (Been there, done that!)
I’m actually looking forward to the challenge of building a helix. I was going to have two tracks. One being a 30" and one beiing a 33" radius. I have plenty of room. I like working with wood so I thoought it would be a fun task. Or frustrating. We’ll see!
Well, if you insist, here’s a helix calculator I dug up.
A helix would be nice but they take a lot of room. About 5’ x 5’ or 25 sq.ft. of railroad room space minimum. The helix has to be large enough so that locomotives can pull all the rolling stock up the grade yet enough space so that the train has enough clearance to go over itself.
Try to get in contact with Joe Fugate if you are planning a helix. He knows a lot about building helixs from experience. I wanted a helix at one time for my layout, but once i did all the math, it would have taken up over 1/4 of my layout space so i nixed that idea.
Here’s a link to some info on my own helix:
http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.com/CM%20-%20Behemoth%20Helix.htm
The more I think about it I feel you guys are right about the space. Maybe I will try that train elevator idea. It actually sounds easier and will take up way less space. I’ll just have to have a long straightaway that I can elevate in order to get all my rolling stock up and down.
I appreciate the info.
JW, Is your elevator maual or mechanized?
Thanks, Smitty
It was manual. I operated it with two draw strings passed through pulleys secured to hooks in the ceiling.
Sorry, I don’t buy into that.
It’s quite possible to build a helix with 12" curves in N-Scale and keep it to a ~3% grade depending on how it’s built. Using threaded rod with cheap laminate as the deck and using caulk to affix the track, you can keep the height down to under a 1/5 inch. Unless you’re running double stacked cargo boxes, 2" between the top of the rails and the next level is more then enough for N.
Sorry, but all of the above answers are pertaining to HO scale…the responders might not have indicated as such. The original poster is also an HO modeler. Sorry for the confusion. In the case of HO, they are correct.
Don Z.
Oh, yeah, for HO that does seem right.
I’m stuck with a one track mind and it’s in N scale [:-^]
Sorry for the confusion guys. I always forget to mention what scale I am in. I should just make a signature that says:
Smitty, HO modeler!!!
I suspect from the radii Smitty specified, he’s in HO. And the space needed would probably be more like 6 feet square (36 sq. ft.) with those radii. In HO, you need a 3.5 inch minimum clearance, from the railhead, and 4" is better, particularly if you’re running double-stacks and such.
Smitty,
See if you can find a copy of Model Railroad Planning from 2001. It has a great article on train elevators by Don Smith. I base the design for my half circle elevator on the suggestions that I got from the article. My elevator is also manual and takes up an area about 52" square in HO. The straight line elevators in the article take up very little square footage.
My issue wasn’t about the space that I would us, it was about having 72ft of hidden track tied up in the helix. My total main line length is only 120’ without the helix so my trains would have spent over 1/3 of their time on hidden track had I put the helix in.
Just remember that a helix or elevator are going to require more maintenance to keep everything running smoothly.
Scott
If you’re going to go the “elevator” route, perhaps using a set of extended length drawer slides would be an option. If you used one on each end, and one in the middle, it could be raised and lowered with a “Window glass motor” like what is used in cars with only one cable since the three drawer slides would negate any uneven raising of one side or the other. Wouldn’t have to worry about things rolling out either.
There is a company that makes “kit” helixes…
Something I was wondering about a helix, Suppose the train is almost to the top of the helix and a coupler behind the loco breaks/comes loose, then what? Is there a safty matter here for such problems? do you simply pick the rolling stock off the floor and repair them? Just something I was wondering the other day. Mike
When I build the helix for my upcoming layout, to prevent the dreaded plung to the floor I’m going to use screw-on snaps and enclose it with a fabric “wall” on the inside and outside edges. If it does disconnect, the train either rolls all the way down the helix and comes back out, or it derails and is “caught” by the fabric.
I’ve always been interested in the display elevator at http://www.ro-ro.net/
The same idea as a train lift, but it has more levels. You can set it up so that you have visible display staging, or hide all but the top shef below layout level. I suppose you could use it to transfer trains between levels on a stacked layout as well.
A very cool idea!
Smitty311…My personal openion is to follow your own desires, ambitions, of what you want to put into, and get out of any hobby. Being that you said you have the room, desire, skills and think it would be fun, then go for the helix. they are fun to build, operations will increase with a double track helix. The key to mine (of which is smaller then yours)is that I start the outer track on one side and the inner track enters on the other side and have a run around behind it to increase operationa. Email me if you wish and I will explain how to make it bullet proof…John