Building a trestle and looksing for a source fo stock

Garden Railroading
1

From what I’ve been reading on the GRR forum, Aristocraft Forum and MyLargeScale.Com it appears everyone is using 1/2 by 1/2 cedar wood stakes. Are these tomato stakes? Where is everyone getting their wood stock from. I don’t have a table saw to rip my own. The best I found was 1 inch by 1/2 inch at Lowes, but wanted it to look more prototypical and use the 1/2X1/2 stuff.

thanks

dan

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Dan,
I have a table saw, but don’t like cutting strip wood. Too much dust, and I already took off a piece of my thumb a few years back.

I get all my stock from Bob Kelley at Garden-Texture. He has a wide selection of sizes and some really great kits as well. Nice guy to deal with.

The bridge is a kit, the trestle is built from his plans.

3

That’s a sweeeet looking bridge and trestle!!!

Sorry to hear about your thumb!! I don’t think I’d feel safe with a table saw cutting little 1/2 inch strips of wood anyway…

thanks Bruce

dan

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Thanks, Dan.

I’ve since removed the X pieces along the side. Leaves get trapped in there every year and don’t want to come out very easily.

Just remember you’ll want more than just 1/2" square stuff. You’ll need cross bracing for each bent and girders to tie the top of the bents together. And, if you’re going to lay your own track, some bridge ties.

I think I end up getting four different size stock, all told.

Just finished a longer trestle - 10 feet of wood and 2 of metal…

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Dan- do you have a band saw? I have used mine to rip approx 1/2" sq from cedar fence slats available at Home Depot 9/16" x 4" 6 ft for $2.45 . I get 7 (6ft long) pieces per board on the band saw and 6 per on the table due blade thickness. Just for comparison, commerical source: 25 2’ sections for $28.00, I get 21 on the band saw and 18 on the table saw for $2.50. If you don’t have either a band saw or table saw-this project would pay for one-you can get either one for about $100 on sale-they get poo-poo’ed alot but both of mine are $100 special and have served well for light duty. I leave the band saw set up for quick “everyday” small cuts and usually set the table saw up outside for big projects because it does make alot of saw dust

6

I have to agree with markn. My wife found a dollhouse that she liked, a bit too large, out of scale, for the GRR. The kit and supplies totaled just over $300. I had a scroll saw from previous projects, so all I needed was a small table saw from Lowes ($99 + tax) and $20 worth of wood.

A small light weight table saw is a very cost saving expense. Just remember that it is designed for light work. 20 years ago I burned up another small table saw building a play house for the daughter (12 ft x 15 ft) cutting 4x4’s and 8x8’s. Now I only cut one inch thick material at home. That is all I need to work with for the GRR.

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Bruce,

Great Progress; do you still have the beagle?

I use a table saw to rip ties and other stuff. I’d have to agree that it’s very dangerous and you must be careful and it’s even dangerous when you are; but it’s the fastest way to go. I also use a band saw sometimes, but even with that you have to be careful and use a full face shield; I’ve had stuff go flying off a band saw as well!

I think most who build trestles use cedar, redwood or other wood that lasts a lot longer than treated pine; but you will still need to treat cedar, etc with stains or used motor oil.

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David, I do still have Peanut - that shot of me is from our trip to Alaska…one of the Iditarod dogs…

Some more recent progress - a scratchbuilt bridge and curved trestle. Stained and ready to install.

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Good day!

Is there a site that one can find plans for a curved trestle?

Have to build a curved trestle to go over my water falls leading into the pond.

Thanks

Andrew

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Andrew;
If you are making a curved “timber trestle bent” bridge, here is a quick idea. Someone else’s plans will force you to use their radius of curvature. Having several years experience building the “real ones” (NOT for trains but for US Army tanks and trucks) here is how I’m building my new bridge, and mine is curving at the same time it is climbing!

  1. Timber Bents: The vertical “posts” assembly are composed of a sill, posts, cap, and latitudinal bracing. Make each bent individually to adjust it’s height to the proper level.

  2. Superstructure: Stringers span the gap between individual bents. For curves, make the stringers a little longer on the outside of the curve, (or shorter on the inside of the curve.) Longitudinal bracing is used to support “paired bents”, it can be horizontal timbers as in Bruce’s picture or the “X” bracing that Bruce has removed due to “leaf congestion.” Using this technique you can build your bridge to whatever curvature you want, not being stuck to someone else’s plan curvature.

Bruce;
Thanks for the comment about removing the “X” bracing as I was going install them on my bridge. Since I too have a “leaf problem” I was about to run into some expected grief. Thanks again!!!

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Hi I know this is a older post and if you haven’t found a way to get your material maybe this will help. At a local woodworking show a few years back I picked up a jig called the GRR-RIPPER and I can rip as small as 1/4" X 1/4" safely all day with a large 10" table saw. I have also seen this item in the Rockler catalog. I have built several bridges and portals for myself and for friends safely and when it’s safe it’s fun.

Barney

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Dan

I manufacture 1:20.3 scale trastle ties that are a scale size: 6" x 8" x 8’ and I may be able to supply the rest of your timber needs. You can contact me at hobodave@charter.net if you are interested and I can direct you to my web site.

Dixie Hobo

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Thanks for the offers and all the info…The last several days I’ve been researching table saws and decided to go ahead and buy one. That way I can rip my own stuff and I get a NEW POWER TOOL!!! Whooooooo Hoooooo!!!

dan