I want to build an old spur line where the track is old and dilapidated. I thought I would insert alternating shims under the track so that the train will rock back and forth as it goes down the track. I would also like to distress the track so the rails will look kinked and out of alignment. I’ll be running a local at slow speed so I’m not too worried about derailments.
Has anyone done this type of track on their layout? Any tips and suggestions would be appreciated.
Bruce
I just buried the track and ties deep in old ballast, sand & Weeds!
Painted the rails old rust color!
It looks bad but the equipment runs well with no derailments!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Get some ME code 55 track and gently abuse it. Remember it’s mostly about vertical action, you don’t want to get things out of gauge. Then spike it, being careful not to take all the “wobble” out as you do, leave some slack in some of the spikes. Then dirt it in with ballast or even just dirt or other ground cover.
For sure once you have it laid, run back and forth across it with the motive power and rolling stock you plan to use. You still want things to stay on the track unless your a Fan of the Frequent 0-5-0. If good/bad[;)], then ballast and otherwise finish “garnishing” it.
Hi
I think I would go for the overgrown rusty buried look.
Without the bad track its easy to lay good track, but very hard to lay bad track that works properly
I would be worried about on going problems with the bad track.
regards John
John,
I really enjoyed the video and especially seeing the double stacks rocking and rolling.
Our local short line, the Winchester & Western used to be known as the Weak & Weary with good reason.
One question… was that track worked planned or just an accident?? [:D]
For those familiar with brass track, would that be easier to bend?
Bob
I’m not positive but it seems like it was planned to me.
John
To do the track on my rundown spur [based on an actual line] I soldered short lengths together, and tweaked it with pliers
I glued it down, and after testing that it was trafficable I buried the ties with a mix of clay, tea leaves and crushed twigs, all of which was glued down ballasting-style. There were lots of gaps underneath that needed filling.
One of my videos of it…I couldn’t work out how to embed it. Best to hold ‘shift’ if/when you click the link.
The biggest issue with doing this is uncoupling due to excessive vertical travel. I have only a few items of rollingstock that can handle it without becoming uncoupled, and they cope because they have slightly overscale couplings. Atlas locos handle it better than my Proto 2000s.
Mike
Probably not. NS track is pretty flexible, especially code 55 and below. They may still have code 40 if you want it really flexible[:O] In fact, NS may work better than brass for getting gentle curves.[:X]
And remember that this is a piece of track where contact may be less than ideal. I’d generally suggest not putting up with the hassle of brass track, but an even better idea to use NS when there’s uneven track to deal with.
Just remember that model suspension systems do not work like real suspension systems. Individual axles in a real car or engine can move with respect to each other. Not so in a model engine, the axles are rigidly held and only the entire truck pivots. On model cars the same applies unless they have sprung trucks.
It is very easy to get track so out of whack that the engines can’t negotiate it or lose traction/electrical contact.