I first read about this method in Model Railroader, May 1988, page 88. The Author’s name is M. J. Randall.
I had no layout at that time so I never tried it. I decided to try this method today to see if I like it or not. I will try to explain what I did.
I started with PVC pipe. My pipe is 16 mm in diameter because I could not find any smaller in my city, but the Author used 1/2 inch pipe (12,7 mm). I attacked 2 pipes like this. The distance between the pipes are 6 mm (I used a masonite piece) I did not take any photo of only the pipes but I’m sure you understand the first step.
It’s very importent that you fasten the pipe at the bottom to get an even roadbed. Or else it can easely loose it’s round shape. I cutted 45 mm long pieces of 6 mm thick masonite and glued it on top of the pipe with latex caulk.
This is what it looks like when the masonite pieces are glued.
Then I glued cork roadbed on top of the masonite pieces.
The result is a very smooth and strong roadbed. I tried to bend the 16 mm pipe to see what radius it can take. It’s no problem to use a 32 inch radius. And I’m sure you can use smaller radius with the 1/2 inch pipe.
I think this method is very interesting. It was fast and easy to build. I already have another idea how to make this even better, but that’s another story. Maybe I will write about that later…
But I can tell you right now that I will be using PVC pipe, masking tape and cement
Cardboard strips attached to the PVC pipe or masonite with hotglue. Masking tape on top of the cardboard. Then a mix made of 2 part cement and 1 part vermiculite as the scenery base.
I hope it turns out well for you, EL. If I were doing this I think I would seriously experiment with cutting the tubing down the middle, lengthwise, and fastening the halves to the frame so that they each faced outward…viewed from the ends, they would look like this )(, except they would be very close to true halves. Not sure yet how I’d affix those shapes to the bench cross members, but the idea, if it can be done, would be to have the scenery base abut the inner recesses of the tubing that face outward toward the scenery. I am not sure if hot glue will suffice as an anchor on smooth and concave plastic tubing surfaces. Maybe it will be just fine.
What about curves? They will place tension and compression forces on the pipes. If cut in half, I’d bet the half-pipes would want to twist…So far, I don’t see much advantage in using pipe for subtrack, at least not enough to try it.
Electrolove, I find this to be a very interesting concept. Its construction is much like spine roadbed but without the cutting and gluing of wood or masonite strips. The curves can be formed freehand instead of having to be figured out on paper and recreated in wood. Even easements, vertical or horizontal would be easy with the flexibility of PVC. Unlike wood or masonite, the PVC pipe is flexible in both the horizontal and vertical planes.
I’m likin’ it, Electro, and I look forward to seeing and hearing more about your experiment. [:)][tup]
If you used smaller OD PVC piping, you could lay more side-by-side and achieve the tighter curved radii. And the PVC would definitely have a vertical transition advantage over the wood spline, as Johnnny pointed out.
Very interesting idea. The chief advantage I see is that the pipe comes in long pieces so that you can quickly lay long sections. Chief disadvantage I see is cutting and attaching all those masonite cross pieces. Let us know how it holds up over time.
I’ve found PVC and CPVC tend to sag a little between supports. You might want to do some long term testing before laying too much track with this method. I would at least make sure I was using the thicker walled, higher 600 PSI pipe, but you will have bending problems with that in your curves. An interesting idea though…
I am wondering about under the track items like switch machines, magnets and occupancy sensors ? I am not sure how easy they will be to work with but if comparing to spline roadbed, the challenges would be about the same.
This looks like a very interesting method. Some day I would like to try it. I am wondering how you connect one length of pipe to the next length ? Also how do you mold in a turnout? Instead of using short masonite cross pieces then adding roadbed on top of that, why not use “cookie cutter” masonite or masonite strips with frequent cross cut making it flexable right on the PVC pipe then putting cork roadbed on that? Just an idea. Jeff
Thta is a unique idea EL, this is how progress is made in any field, by thinking outside the box, by not being afraid to try something knew, or imporving upon another’s idea/s.
One think that came to my mind EL, what a great way to run TRACK POWER!! Just run your wiring right inside the pipes and feed up through holes in the pipe where needed. I don’t see a problem with turnouts either, as these can be fed up past the pipes or inbetween the pipes with little difficulty.
Good that you asked that qustion. This is the best part. If you use the 1/2 inch pipe that the Author used you can connect one pipe to the other with wood dowels Just insert a dowel inside one pipe and connect the other. According to the Author, this also work in the middle of curves.
Good idea about track power. This is exactly what I want. Start a discussion that other people can improve on. This is thinking outside the box. Mix old and new without being scared. Maybe you make many mistakes to reach the perfect solution. But in the end, it’s worth it.
I bought a 2 meter, 16 mm pipe at Coop for 17:- (around 2,5 USD). They are also available in 3 meter lengths. And as I mention earlier, buy a pipe with the same inner diameter as a wood dowel. You can connect them that way. I think you will find these pipes in a chop for electrical things (Swedish: typ el-affär för det där är samma rör som du använder för att dra kablar i väggarna i ett hus). I also calculated if this is cheaper or more expensive then masonite splines. The pipe method is slightly cheaper in my case.
