My top level will be hanging by threaded rod on one end and attached to the rest of the layout on the other end. It will be 30" wide and 12’ long. I plan to to use 1 X 4 's with 1" extruded foam on top. My question is… will the 1 X 4’s sag over time? Do I need to double them up with screws and glue ? or do I need to put Aluminum Angle bar behind them for support ? Do any of you have any suggestions ? Any help would be appriceaged.
Thanks in advance
Eddie
I might imagine it would be determined by how much weight you put atop it that would make the determination.
If you are putting the cross members in the 30" space, I shouldn’t think so.
I used only grade A 1x2’s as my cross members on my HO scale layout on the 3.5 foot wide space, and they haven’t sagged. It is topped with Extruded foam and extruded foam scenery {no hardshell}, and surrounded by the long end members that are 1x4’s and the 1x2’s are screwed/glued into the1x4s. Nothing has sagged in 6 years…I don’t know what the weight is atop it…
I can’t imagine it would be any different hanging than sitting atop bolted on legs.
[8-|]
At 12’ a sag might happen but where are you going to get straight 1x4’s 12 feet long? I think I would go aluminum studs for that distance and this is from someones who’s railroad is all 1x4’s with foam top.
I am assuming that there should be at least one or two supports hanging from the ceiling in there along the 12’ length…like I would put at least one set if not two sets of legs in along the 12 foot side if I was doing legs!
I wouldn’t leave a 12’ 1x4 span to its own devices…I guess I got caught up in answering the depth question I forgot to answer the length question! Perhaps a 12’ 2x4 would work…but again…where will you find a straight 12 footer?
[8-|]
I would use steel studs. They will not sag, however steel studs on the horizontal will twist and bend unless you use adequate cross bracing. Build it like a 30" high wall, flip it on its side and glue the foam on it, Gluing foam on the top will offer a lot of stability but it must be a powerful construction adhesive that won’t give or flex. Caulk will not work in this instance. Steel studs are about the same price as a good quality 2" x 4" at the big box store.
If you use wood I would go with a scrap piece of angle iron for the spine. I picked up a 20’ long piece of 1" for $12.00 at the scrap metal dealer. A flat piece of metal will sag so use angle iron or something similar.
Here is some angle iron I welded into a rectangle and dropped some cement board into to go across my fireplace. You could do the same except drop foam in instead.
This is where I am up to so far.
Good luck.
Brent[C):-)]
I like the steel stud idea. I’ll look at them at lowes or home depot. If I put a cross support every two or three feet that should take care of the twisting problem right ?
I dont have a scrap yard anywhere close to me and I’ve price new ones which are way beyond my buget.
Thanks for the help
Eddie
I forgot to mention (angle iron) in the previous thread…I dont have a scrap yard anywhere close to buy angle iron and I’ve price new ones which are way beyond my buget.
The steel studs are “C” shaped. If they twist they will bend and collapse. Face the open part of the “C” toward each other and run cross bracing across ensuring both the top and bottom of the “C” are attached to its counterpart.
It will still twist. But not any worse than wood will. All four corners must be secure either by attaching to other benchwork, to legs or from the ceiling. Some sort of cross bracing must be used on the rods from the ceiling or it will swing just as unbraced legs will wobble below. If the four corners are held firm the steel stud table will be lighter and stronger than one made out of wood. Humidity will not affect it causing warping issues. Good luck.
Brent[C):-)]