Building Oregon Rail Supply 2 light block signals....

I’ve purchased two ORS block signal kits (red/green) to protect a diamond crossing and have assembled them. The LEDs are supplied but not the wire. I purchased two reels of #38 magnet wire from Ngineering to hook them up but I have a question… this magnet wire is not insulated. The signal posts are brass tubing. If the wires touch the brass (or each other), isn’t that going to short them out?

I’m pretty sure it does have a thin enamel coating. I know that you don’t have to try and strip it, just the soldering process is enough to melt the coating.

Maybe read through their “how-to” page:

http://www.ngineering.com/wiring_tips.htm

Mike.

According to their website, it is.

“The magnet wire we supply is manufactured by Superior Essex, Inc. and has a single-build (single layer coating) of Superior’s Soderon® heat removable insulation. This is vastly superior (no pun) to chemical removable insulations or the kind that require scraping. While Superior has many different types of heat removable insulations, we chose Soderon 155 for its low-temperature removal characteristics compared to their other insulations. :”

If it’s not, it will short. Liquid electric tape should make you feel better.

Thanks!

I gotta try that liquid tape. I keep forgetting when I’m at my LHS (local hardware store).

Mike.

Thank you!

To make it easier to wire my signals I bought red, yellow, green and black #36 stranded wire off eBay.

It came on those neat little spools.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Feet-7-62-m-36-AWG-TONEARM-Wire-Stranded-Copper-Ultra-Flexible/361574248241?epid=27007652631&hash=item542f812f31:g:K~kAAOSwn8FXSiac

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=t028+wire&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XT028+wire.TRS0&_nkw=T028+wire&_sacat=0
&nbs

If you need tiny insulated wire, strip and old paralell printer cable, lots of small diameter wire in these.

I used magnet wire on these, but my wires do not go inside the tube.

I’ve used magnet wire for ORS crossing signals. It works as advertised. To strip the insulation from the ends, just touch the end with a hot soldering iron and the insulation will melt back a half inch or so and you can get a good connection.