As some of you know Im going to start a dealer display style layout. Im just finishing up some last minute changes in plans and finally convincing myself that I cant fit EVERY accessory I want into a 6 1/2 by 10 1/2 foot layout while keeping it neat.
From what Ive seen, every dealer display layout used bus bars (long flat pieces of metal) and ran feeder wires to accessories. They used one for common and sometimes another for accessory power. I dont recall many layouts with feeder wires to the tracks except those with upgrades.
What are the advantages of bus bars vs the advantages of a bus wire with aligator clips?
I don’t know about the advantages but the really big disatvantage is having a potentially high current source of electricity that is completely exposed. I’m not sure I’d want to be crawling around under this layout in poor lighting with metal tools like pliers or screw drivers that might make accidental contact.
I agree that a solid, uninsulated bus doesn’t seem like a good idea, but I’m not sure that I would use alligator clips either. I have bus wires running under the layout with multiple feeder wires going up to the track and would suggest something more permanent than alligator clips - you can use the “tried and true” track lockons or crimp a solderless connector to the ends of your feeder wires and wedge the connectors into the bottom of the track (assuming that you’re going to be using tubular track).
If you think of it, your exposed track represents exactly the same exposure as uninsulated bus wire. The track has more chances for shorts (derailed trains and dropped tools) then the exposed wire under the layout. When I drop a tool under the layout, the tool usually falls to the floor rather then falling up to the exposed wires.
I use nine uninsulated bus wires strung the length of my layout. Eight of the wires are electrically connected to each of the eight terminals on my ZW. The ninth wire is used as a bus bar for my lighting. The track wires are soldered to the appropriate bus wires. The accessories and lighting wires are all attached using alligator clips. It makes it very easy to move or replace accessories.
The exposed track is a necessity. The trains would have a hard time running if we completely insulate the track[;)] It would also be unusual to be deliberatley spaning tracks with conductive material under normal circumstances.
I don’t do well on my back in a usually cramped and dark environment that you find under most layouts. I’ve also gotten enough shocks to try and avoid them in the future. I generally prefer that my electrical wires be insulated. To each his own.
re alligator clips. These are nice for temporary hookups or testing. I can’t imagine why you would want to use these on a permanent connection when there are lots of other alternatives (e.g. terminal stirps, wire nuts, crimp on connectors, …) that won’t wiggle loose and are easier to thread.
I think the upfront concept of the dealer layout was to be able to add and remove items quickly and easily, hence the aligator clips.
As far as which to use a bus or a wire I would say they would work equally well. I saw a bus made from metal plumbers straping once. IT was flattened out and spaced from the underside and attached with felt washers and screws. I could see running a bus wire in a similar manner.
I am not sure about a bus “bar.” If you happened to have something convenient it might be okay and save buying wire, but might be too large to solder wires.
I use a #10 bare “grounding” wire for track common. I have also bought #10 solid and removed the insulation. It is convenient to be able to attach a wire to any point of the “bus” without stripping the wire. #10 can be soldered easily with a Weller 150 watt gun. Larger wire takes too long.
I use #14 single conductor stranded “home” wire for track power and accessories buses.
Wire from buses to track is usually #16 stranded “hook up” wire.
Wiring uses a lot of barrier strips, soldered spade lugs, and 1/4 " quick disconnect terminals. Computer printed labels for the barrier strips really helps with later wiring changes. Cable clamps and nylon cable ties really help to neaten everything up and keep wires out of harm’s way.
I think I would use the barrier strips and quick disconnect terminals over alligator clips. The alligator clips don’t hold well, are hard to control, and can easily touch the wrong thing.
The solid metal buss bar is for ease of making connections and neatness. You can do it either way as long as the conductor is sized to your amp load. As far as potentially high current exposure is concerned, the outside rails of your track are on the same circuit and just as potential. If you are using an old transformer that is in need of an overhaul, the potential can be there.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I used the wrong term when describing the “aligator clips”. The things I would use are 1/2 inch plastic pieces with a path for a wire to run through (bus wire) and a slot with one end closed to stick a feeder in. A metal piece is pressed down connecting the two.
From what Ive read so far the only advantage to having bus bars is that they allow you to stick to the exact building techniques of the lionel factory. Since this is my own track plan and I may do some things differently, I guess Ill just KISS and use the wire I already have.