You mentioned the diode. Did you use it to make a DC supply, or is it in series with the lamp? The latter will work, but the recharge time will be longer.
Bob,
I ended up with the original setup…power from ZW to diode (1n4001) to 100W resistor to 4700uF capacitor . The anode end of the capacitor also has the jumper wire from the switch attached there and the other end is attached to the ground terminal on the switch. Wonderful! The switch “snaps” nicely…I get about 2 fast switches per charge (more than enough) and the controller lamps work great. If I decide to do the lamp “resistor” rather than the ceramic one, I could do that down the line. In fact, I was just ordering the parts for my other 7 switches. These won’t be from Radio Shack. Mouser or Digikey…much cheaper.
Now, why wouldn’t a straight DC transformer by itself (without the other 3 items) do the trick? I did try a 6 amp diode by itself before and it worked, but there was bad buzz, so I suspect the same would occur with a DC transformer by itself. Would you agree with that?
I’m impressed with this and very pleased.
Roger
100 watt resistor? [:O]
Straight DC would indeed quiet the turnout. The problem with having either AC or DC powering the turnout all the time is that it is easy to burn out a coil by parking a train on a control rail. Lionel’s design of the 1122 (and its descendants) is flawed, in that they added the non-derailing feature without the internal switch that the 022 has to turn off the coil (and incidentally provide the red-green indication to the controller). Their solution, which you can see is inadequate, was to build the turnout so that you cannot power it externally. That way, it was less likely that a train would stop on the turnout with power still available to throw the turnout–but not certain, since a locomotive in neutral or cars not in a train can still ruin a turnout. With external AC power, at least you have that annoying buzz to alert you to the danger. With DC, the turnout will just silently burn up.
So, capacitive discharge is a good thing to have as an alternative to AC power, and a really good thing to have as an alternative to straight DC power.
Bob,
That’s exactly what I wanted to know. In fact, when I ordered the parts for the other switches last night, I decided to do it right and do it with the lamps. So, it should work even better than it does now, which I’m actually very happy with.
You are a great asset to this Forum. Thanks!
Bob,
While I’m waitng for the components for my other switches to arrive, I swapped out the resistor for the 53 lamp on the switch I’ve completed. I have a question about it. It works fine (although I did expect to see the bulb illuminated…it’s mounted under the board) but what is the advantage of using the bulb rather than the resistor? The switch snaps nicely using both.
Another benefit from separating the controller lamps from the switch circuit. The lamps no longer blink as a train goes over a switch and do not go out if a train is parked over it. I’m liking this more and more.
Roger
The lamp charges the capacitor faster than the (100-ohm) resistor. The current through the coil while the controller contact is closed or while the train is on the control rail is about the same. But, as the capacitor charges, the current drops. The closer the capacitor gets to full charge, the slower the charging becomes. The resistor’s resistance is the same throughout; but the lamp’s resistance goes down significantly as it dims. So the lamp brings the capacitor to a full charge more quickly.
Once the capacitor is fully charged, the turnout action is the same. It’s just a matter of how soon you can throw it again.
Bob,
Ok, I had the feeling it was faster. Snap was the same, but it seemed like is was “ready to go” sooner and you verified it. I just wired up all the lamps in my controllers for separate voltage while I’m waiting for my capacitor components.
Should the lamp be illuminated at all? The one that I did is under the table. After I hooked it up, I didn’t think the system was on because the lamp was not lit. Normal?
Roger
It lights when you throw the turnout and then dims out in a second or two while it is charging the capacitor. I like to use lights around the layout, like those in lighted bumpers and billboards. As the trains cross the control rails on the turnouts, these will light up, seemingly at random. For a bumper, I just install a very short piece of track at the end of a siding, but completely isolated from the siding rails, then make my connections to the rails of that short piece.
Bob,
You’re right! I guess I didn’t have it powered up when I first connected it and because it’s under the layout, I didn’t see it. But…just looked under the table and hit the lever. Bingo. I like your ideas for putting those lamps to good use on the layout.
Roger
Bob,
Would you have a diagaram and description of the items needed to do the 1122 modifications?
Thanks,
Spud
Bob, This has been a very informative thread. Would you happen to have a diagram of how to wire fixed voltage to a 1122 switch and use capacitors to file the switch.
Thanks,
Spud
I’m sorry for not responding earlier. I had a bad fall, messed up my back, and am not thinking too clearly because of the pain pills.
There are lots of old postings about that modification, which can be done in several ways. You may be able to search for them yourself; or other members may be able to point you to their favorites. But I’m not up to getting the information myself just now.
Bob - Hope you get to feeling better … Your expert advice makes this forum a better place.
Steve