Parts for c415s Did (or does) any body make the pilots and Hi-ad side frames? Or other parts.
I have two model power c415s that I want to upgrade. now that I have my stanton trucks, I can start that project. The pilots on those are in need of upgrade and the side frames.
Wolfie
The pilots are the easy part. Simply file flat anything in front of the steps off and fabricate pilots using sheet styrene, following reference pictures. Plenty of pilot detail available re hoses, etc.
Are you building a specific model needing hi-ads? 415s used AAR like the RS locomotives too.
My question, what are you going to do for hand rails and stansions? Those MP ones are awfully heavy and crude. Dan
The side frames fall under the catagory of which ever version i find enough of to do one or two units. Hand rails i have been thinking that the best way would be to find stantions of the right type. Probably have to buy different kits or where ever i can find them. The hand rail will have to be a brass rod bend to shape on a form.
Here’s a link to a picture on Ken Perry’s SP site. It looks like the builder used Athearn hand rail stansions and bent his wire to suit.
http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/model_photos/2403a_c-415-model-ron_sikorski.jpg
Another model on the site has stansions that do look a little more alco like, I don’t know how that builder did them.
There are also lots of great prototype pictures of 415s there. I hope this helps a little. I have a couple of these in the works too, neither with the original drives. Dan
I was thinking for hand rails to get a bunch of athearn stanchions and cutting off the loop. Taking metal lift rings (i forget who makes them) and carefully gluing the straight part to the back for the hand rail those creating the same stanchion look that the c415 has. basing this on pics and vids, that would look like the closest match. Th erail itself would be bent .79 rod stock.
Shane
Sorry, but that sounds to me like broken handrails the first time you pick up the loco.
Tyco made handrail stanchions very similar to the style I saw on the prototype photos that I looked at a few minutes ago, and they would have been on their not-all-that-accurate C-430 and C-630.
It’s unlikely, though not impossible, that you’ll find enough of the Tyco ones for you locos, but you could make your own from brass bar-stock, available from K&S or, if they’re still around, Detail Associates.
I’m not sure about that number, but if it’s supposed to be .079", that’s a bit on the heavy side - just over 7" diameter in HO. I’d use .015" or .020" phosphor-bronze wire, and drill holes in the stanchions. Once you’ve threaded the handrails through the holes in the stanchions and installed the assembly on the loco, straighten the stanchions then solder the railing at each stanchion.
To prevent the heat transfer through the stanchions from damaging the plastic body shell, place a small wad of damp tissue or paper towel around the base of each stanchion, and after you solder the railing at each stanchion, place a similar wad of damp tissue over each newly-soldered joint - this will prevent heat transfer from the next joint being soldered, which could otherwise undo previously-done joints.
Wayne