I read somewhere that there are manual switch throws that can be mounted on the outside edge of the layout with a cable going to the switch for actuation. I couldn’t locate the manufacturer or where I read it (as usual…I need to take notes!) If anyone has a source or any experience with them I would like to hear about it. I was thinking the manual throws located by the switch might be hard to actuate once rolling stock, engines or scenery were in the way on a finished layout. I kind of like the idea of operating the switch manually as part of the switching operation and I will be there anyhow as I use picks to uncouple. Any recommendations will be appreciated.
Thanks DrBob, not in the market at the moment (the OP seems to be, though). Interesting approach to manual control that appears to offer considerable space savings on a fascia or control board.
Why not just strip a push-pull control cable from a derelict bicycle or a lawnmower, or get one at your local small-engine repair shop where they sell and repair generators, riding mowers, etc? Next time you go by such a place, you’ll be back in your car within minutes and about $9 poorer. At your work bench later, you’ll have to fashion a suitable connection on the one end that attaches to the turnout’s throwbar, but it should be no biggie.
I took some music wire, an old button and some screw eyelets to make my own for a shinohora double slip. Drilled out under the points throw and allowed for the wire to be bent up to the hole in the ties. Drilled out the front for the wire to protrude through.
While there are fancy switch throw devices, I get away with plain old slide switches mounted in finger-clearance `windows’ in the fascia. The cable connection is monofilament fishing line, which runs (under tension) from the slide switch handle to the bottom arm of the Anderson link that moves the points and on to a hanging weight. In normal position, the points are held in place by the weight. To throw the points to the reverse position, the slide switch handle is moved to pull the link arm away from the weight. Tension is maintained by the slide switch’s internal detent spring.
Actually, the same linkage can be used for any kind of point mover: Tortoise, Atlas, Rix, KTM, Caboose ground throw or a drawer knob with latching arangement. I use it because all electrical connections are made at the fascia instead of on the layout surface or (worse yet) underside. Spelunking under the layout is NOT my thing!
Thank you all as usual for your timely and informative response…this forum is a great resource for someone new to the hobby building a first layout…getting it right the first time is much more likely with your help!
I cut 1 x 4 into 1" strips to make a small shelf to mount caboose ground throw on. I used control cables from R/C plane to hook ground throw to Anderson link. Chuck what test fishing line do you use? I have some 20lb test is this heavy enough?
Wayne, 20# test is plenty! The actual forces on the line are measured in grams, not pounds. My hanging weights are usually a couple of stripped out 1/4-20 nuts. I’ve been using 10# and getting good results.
Nice thing is, since the system is always in tension, you can use mini screw-eyes to change cable direction to dodge around obstacles.