A few months ago, I purchased several high level switch stands (#204S) from Caboose Industries for my city passenger train station. I have painted and installed the stands at each turnout feeding tracks into the station, and I love the look of these high level switch stands.
However, I have a problem with the operation of these switch stands, and I wonder how others have dealt with this problem.
When I manually throw the switch, the gear tends to lift out of place and I have to reset it back into place. The kit does include a “washer” which can be attached to the rod, and I assume that this washer could be glued onto the rod to keep the gear from lifting out of place. I have thought about using some sort of CA adhesive or epoxy to do the job but, so far, I have done nothing except keep the task on my To Do list while I try to figure out the best way to resolve this problem.
Have any of you had a similar problem, and how have you resolved it?
Yes, I have encountered a similar problem. I found that this did not occur with all of my high stand installations, but just at those where there was some “catch” in the throw. That is, my linkage or the installation of the turnout caused pressure to build up on the throw rod and then release. The little “click” or change in the pressure was when the gear would throw out of the cog. Smoothing up the throw and the linkage corrected the problem.
I’m interested in what your solution will be as I have the same ones but am no where near ready to install them. I am curious could the spring pressure be too loose or too tight? also are you operating them with a switch machine or are they the only means of throwing the switch?
This was learned through experience, and I didn’t get it right the first time…
First, make sure that the turnout itself operates (“throws”) smoothly. Before spiking the turnout in place, use a weight or something to hold it down and check that the throw is smooth at that location. I use Shinohara, which are generally quite good, but sometimes there is a little burr of plastic that interferes with the movement. One can’t get a file in there, so careful application of some emory cloth can work. Second, make sure that your linkage between the turnout throw and the switch stand has full clearance. I use brass rod on occasion to be able to set the switch stand further away from the track, and I make sure that the “trench” is both deep enough and is also smooth to insure no friction there. If the upright pin of the Caboose Industries stand is applied direct to the hole in the switch linkage, make sure there is space underneith so that the pin isn’t scraping on your Homasote or base.
Sometimes, in affixing the switch stand, one adjusts that second mounting screw a little forward or back to make sure that the throw is “centered”. That alteration can put the alignment of the throw slightly off center, and some adjustment may be needed. Careful placement on that first screw (I get up on a chair or whatever to be able to work on it from directly above) helps. Finally, if there is still some binding, just a little plastic-compatible oil on the sides of the turnout “throw” (where it may be contacting the sides of the adjacent ties) can fix it.
Generally though, when I have encountered this problem (of the raised stand jumping out of alignment) it is my installation rather than a problem with the Caboose Industries product. Hope this helps.
Bill (and others) I’ve been attracted to these stands but was concerned about their perceived delicacy compared with the standard Caboose throws (202S) in operations sessions. Have you found them to be more worrisome regarding stray elbows or forceful operators than the standard throws?
I do miss having the targets and more realistic appearance. Do you guys n’ gals use them only away from the layout’s aisle tracks? Thanks.
It does appear that these high Caboose Industries switch stands have some unusual properties. Although they are made primarily of Delrin (or a similar slippery plastic), they seem to have a strong odd magnetic property that will attract any shirt-sleeve that is anywhere in the area. A secondary effect of inducing brief but focused expletives sometimes results.
It is very seldom that I have guest operators, but even knowing every inch of the layout has not stopped me from striking them on occasion. The ground throws are certainly far more durable. That turning target does look good, however. On my new layout, I have installed the high mount switch stands mostly is places where nearby items (structures, tunnel portals, forest, etc.) help remind me not to get in a hurry in throwing that turnout or in reaching into that area.
I am going to apply some JB Weld Epoxy with a toothpick to the underside of the washer provided with the kit, That should permit the rod to rotate freely while holding down the gear against the plate on which it rests. If that works as planned, the gear should not rise up out of place.
I will report back on the results.
Incidentally, I agree on the fragile nature of the throw. It is quite a bit smaller than the ground throw so you gotta be careful.
Bill and Rich, thanks for your feedback. I think I’d like to install at least some of these in more out of the way locations eventually. Not sure if the bases are the same size/screw hole locations between the two designs for retro fitting. I’ll have to look next time I get to a hobby shop that has some on the shelf (50 miles away )
Before attempting the JB Weld approach, I tested the spring pressure to see if it was too loose or too tight. Incidentally, I operate the high level switch stands manually, not with a Tortosie or other type of switch machine. The spring pressure was fine, so I tried the JB Weld approach to see if I could keep the gear in place instead of lifting up out of place. It worked.
The trick was to get the super small washer onto the rod. After repeated mishaps, including 10 minutes on my hands and knees on the basement floor with a flash light, I resorted to placing the washer on the edge of a piece of masking tape and feeding the rod through the washer while mounted on the stand. That worked on the first try.
I put the wide end of the washer up so it fit flush against the underside of the plate that the gear sits on top of. Then, with a toothpick, I carefully applied the JB Weld to the other end of the washer against the rod. When it dried, it was dark black in color like the rest of the high level switch stand, so you cannot even tell that it is there. Voila, success.
Good luck to all who try. It can be done. One down and seven to go.
Incidentally, with the lanterns and shields painted green and red, the high level stand looks superb. Well worth the money.
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