I am working on a DCC shelf layout, using Peco code 75 flextrack and Peco code 75 electrofrog turnouts. I am considering using manual ground throws for the turnouts, and someone recommended that I looked into Caboose Industries ground throws.
Have looked at the web page of that company at http://www.cabooseind.com, but I have a little trouble figuring out a couple of things from their web page:
How big are these ground throws ? I have several places where I have parallell tracks 2" apart centerline to centerline (ie about 3/4 inch between the ends of the sleepers). Is that enough for a ground throw ?
I need a ground throw that has a built in SPDT electrical switch. Which model would that be ?
You don’t need a ground throw with Peco turnouts if they are going to be in an accessible location because they already have a built in spring loaded throw rod.
But sadly - that is apparently not correct when you use electrofrog turnouts. I have been told that in this case I need to have the turnout mechanically linked to a SPDT electrical switch, so you use the electrical switch to feed power to the frog and point rails.
Umm - just to clarify (or potensially confuse the issue even more).
As another poster pointed out to me - the Peco electrofrog of course does provide power to the frog. By way of the connecting chain from stock rail - point rail - jumper - frog - jumper - frog rails, when you just throw the points by hand the way the turnout works when you take it out of the box from the factory.
My question built on a condition I didn’t state clearly: I am considering cutting the jumper between the points and the frog, to avoid potensial problems with shorts between a stock rail and the adjoining open point rail.
If this jumper was cut, then I believe I would need a ground throw with a built-in SPDT to use to provide power to the frog - power to the frog would then not be via a point touching the stock rail. Sorry about not explaining this.
But anyways - I have received a PM suggesting that an Caboose Industries no 202 ground throw probably would cover my need. I am still wondering about how big these ground throws are, and whether anyone can confirm the CI 202 contains a SPDT.
I use the insulfrogs and provide power to all three legs of the turn-out. The power drop may be located a few feet from the turn-out at times, but each leg has power. Can you isolate the frog on the electrofrogs and do the same? This would eliminate the need for a switch.
The Caboose Industries ground throw with the built-in SPDT switch is big, cumbersome, unreliable, and extremely difficult to keep the switch contacts adjusted. You need at least a 1/2 inch diameter hole for the contacts to go down through.
I measured one of the ground throws and it extends 1-3/8 inches beyond the end of the throwbar.
I’d leave the Peco turnouts just as they come out of the box and never, but never, cut the jumpers on the bottom of them. I have never had a problem with a Peco turnout shorting, and prefer them over any other brand.
I have to agree with cacole here. don’t cut the jumpers. I run DCC & have over 25 pecos of both types, with out any electrical modifications; use them as they come. Peco has an add-on electrical switch, that can be mounted directly to the bottom of the turnout by itself, (manual), or can be piggybacked on Peco’s switchmachine, (solenoid).
Mmmm - I am using only medium turnouts, which is about a #6 frog. It is a small shelf layout (20" deep, about 6 feet wide), no hidden tracks and I’ll be running only fairly short wheelbase diesel switchers (Alco S1 and/or Alco RS3s - maybe I’ll get a 44-tonner to get an even shorter engine).
Guess I’ll take your advice and just try the Peco electrofrogs the way they are, and see how it goes. If I get problems, then I can deal with those problems when and if they appear.
there was an article in RMC mag a couple of months ago about using modified bic pens as throws that mount in the facia and are connected to the switch with a piece of steel wire. there also was a way to connect micro switches for power routing. you don’t have to use a switch to route power to the frog since the points that are in contact with the stockrail will pass it on to the frog. you still have to use insulated joiners on the frogs and then put feeders on the rails beyond the frog.
Bought track and turnouts before I thought through what I would need - just picked what my local hobby store seemed to have most varieties of. As they say: “seemed like a good idea at the time”.
It seems like a somewhat good idea at this time to not piss off the missus by spending quite a bit of extra cash on replacing all track and turnouts with code 83 w/insulfrog turnouts, (or replacing the old MRC Prodigy DCC controller with something better), since I got the go for my last big purchase by swearing on a stack of bibles that I now had pretty much everything I needed for the present layout [:)]
Okay, makes sense. I guess this means you’ll have to place gaps on all three exits of your turnouts? This way, when your turnouts are lined for whatever direction, you won’t have to worry about shorting, no matter how bad the wheels are for gauge. These turnouts are power routing…are they not? So, drop feeds to the tracks after each exit of the turnout, but leave the turnout with its own set of feeders and let the power routing slides/connectors do their thing. I don’t use electrofrog, so I hope I have that right. [%-)].
By the way, Stein, there’s an old saying in English; better to beg forgiveness than to have to ask for permission. [:D] So, if “She” might be an obstacle for you getting the turnouts you desire, just prostrate yourself on the floor, grovel nicely, say “Mea culpa,” seven times, and you will have your turnouts as soon as you can get the order there. [(-D]
Not 100% sure if I got what you wrote there. I reckon that I put my insulating joiners and feeds roughly like this (look at figure 9 at the bottom of this webpage I found - black dots are feeds, yellow triangles are insulating joiners):
We have exactly the same saying in Norwegian. And as any man (or woman) who has been happily married for a while - we are coming up on our tenth anniversary on August 9th - I have pulled
Use the points as is, just wire up as per instuctions and use insulated fishplates between facing frogs. So your wallet safe and the boss won’t be doing her nut.
There’s nothing wrong with the Prodigy, done got one myself (Gaugemaster that is), but you’re gonna find the 44 tonner a tight fit for a resonable sound chip without warming up a file (any chip that is).