I’ve been looking for a bandstand to put in an early 1900’s layout and this one looks like it should do based on Valley Model Trains’ picture. No experience with these wood kits, however, but have done many, many plastic kits. It’s pricey, so before I buy it, I would like to know if anyone has had experience with this particular model or can provide suggestions for constructing Campbell models in general.
Thanks,
I have not done that one, but have made some and I like them. They are NOT plastic kits however. Thery are not harder, just different. They are mostly cardboard and wood pieces. There will be some board by board construction. The directions are extensive but not always clear. You will need wood glue, lots of pins to hold parts in place. I put a piece of white foam board over a piece of pink foam and then the plans on top of the foam board and wax paper on top. I use a lot of push pins as well as sewing pins.
I suggest you build one, you may get hooked like me.
Hi Rip. I think you will really enjoy these kits. I build nothing but wood craftsman kits and would build nothing else. To me nothing matches the quality of real wood. I have a dozen or so Cambells kits and they range from quite easy to quite complex. I haven’t done the bandstand but it should be one of the simpler ones. By looking at it I would say it has a wood floor, card roof with plastic railings and either wood or plastic posts. If you private message me with your email address I can send you some pics of how they look built. They have a lot of other structures that would look great on your early 1900s layout. Ron.
I second what Arthill wrote. I have done a couple Campbell kits. I think they are a blast. Yes, they are very definately in the “Craftsman” category. One suggestion. be sure to read the directions all the way through! Then go back and read them all the way through again. Follow each step as written. Oh, BTW, did I mention to read the directions all the way through. You won’t regret it!
I just finished scratchbuilding an early 1900s Bandstand myself. Putting scale 2 x 2s in place and trying to get them on straight is “a lot of fun”! Here is a photo of the finished product:
I built this kit back in 1969-71 and it is still going strong after several moves and long term storage. I can’t reccommend Campbell kits enought. Yes, they are “craftsman” kits but their instructions made the job very easy and everything fit like it should. If you can find one … go for it! Take your time and read and reread the instructions. I used a good grade of yellow wood glue and then painted my whole bandstand with a flat white paint. It was so long ago, but I assume that it was Floquil white something… The band is still in place and playing their hearts out!
Dick Foster
ArrowCreek and Western
Thanks to all for your advice and encouraging words which made my decision easy. I just ordered the kit and look forward to working on it this fall and winter when the weather keeps me inside.
Hello ripvanwnkl!
I have about 20 Campell kits, and have enjoyed building about half of them! Do not underestimate the time you’ll have to spend doing your kit. As none have mention it in this thread, just three small advices:
Use SHARP tools! A dull knife is a mistake on these kits! Use several light strokes, not one with great force.
Plan your work and paint/stain the parts before assembly. I prefer using washes of water based paint or different shades of stain, and weather the completed building at the end. Glue attach to stained wood, stain do not cover glue too well!
Do not think you are smarter than the people writing the instructions [:D], there are no such things like a shortcut with these kits - take your time and follow the instructions closely!
Take your time and enjoy - these are kits to be placed in the foreground of your layout!
Olav, Norway
When staining or painting these kits, if you are using water based paint it is a good idea to paint both side of the sheet wood at the same time. It eliminates the parts from warping. On the shingles which are paper if you give them a thin wash of light gray paint, 1or 2 coats and then a THIN wash of india ink mixed with alchohol they will come out a nice weathered gray. You can control how dark they get by how many coats of india ink you apply. The gray does’t matter. I just use a wash for the grey so it does’nt hide the detail of the shingles. I now use dollar store crafters acrylics for most of my wood. It seems to work as good as anything else I ahve used and is a fraction of the cost. Just make sure everything is a wash not straight paint.Ron
First off use acc to glue, have both the thick and thin types on hand but you will mostly use the thick. If you are going for the stained look, pre stain the peices. Pick a base material so that you can move it off the workbench easily (I have used foam, paper and cardboard for these depending on the final placement on the layout of the item). Use single edge razer blades and not an exacto. When you do the shingle part, do use a paint brush to wet the shingles, dipping dose not work and alot of people like useing white glue to moisen the shinge backs but I only do this if there is a problem. Test fit all. Finish the shingle staining away from the project if possible (do not try to prestain the shingles before placement. Last get a little siliconized latex caulk as I use litle dabs to hold on roofs, get the clear!! Oh and on rare occasion there is an error in the instuctions (thats why I say test fit) as anyone who has built the sandhouse will attest, only one I have found with a real problem and there are as many soloutions as modelers to it as it is minor involving the roof. Now for the real last, put off the doing the coaling tower ( if you are going to do alot of these kits as it is the hardest I think).