I am in need of a second one fo these crossing kits… Or even better yet, two of an equivilent product with nickel-silver rails.
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Does anyone know of where there is one, or do you have one lying around? The address from the manufacturer is “Spokane 12”, no ZIP code, so it must be pre-1963.
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Does anyone know if a crossing kit was ever made like this with nickel-silver rail?
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-Kevin
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Code 70, 83 or 100?
Shinohara made some decent looking ones in 83 and 100.
Here is a jig if you want to “roll your own”.
https://www.blueridgetrax.com/product-p/ho_x_45_.htm
Here’s a pretty good deal on some in code 70:
Good luck, Ed
Code 83 would be best. The brass one I have is code 100.
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I do not care about looks, it will be embedded in aspahault after being soldered to a circuit board.
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I like this one because there are no plastic parts, so no stalling. I found a 4PDT switch to control it.
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It is for this area on my layout:
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-Kevin
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For a time, Oak Hill Model Railroad Track Supply used to rent their templates. Maybe that was cannibalizing their sales of templates.
How does this require a 4 PT switch?
What brand is that?
Why not just make one, its not that hard.
Draw the rail positions on a pine board, spike the rails down, file the joints to fit, solder it together.
If solder fills in the flange ways some, use a hack saw blade and a small file to clear it out. Then spike it in place on your layout.
My first layout was all TruScale wood roadbed track, some “ready Track” some from their kits - my Dad taught me how to build those kits at age 12-13, and a few years later the guys at the Severna park Club taught me to build turnouts from scratch.
BUT, why do you want that? With all the electrical problems of polarity with solid rail crossings? I have never had any issues with insulated crossings.
www.sendmeanatlascrossing.com…
Sheldon
lol I think you mean #sendmeanatlascrossing in Twitter speak
Henry, with DC it requires changing the polarity of the various “corners” of the diamond for each route to be used. Draw a picture, label the rails + and -, look for the short…
Note the precut gaps inside the diamond.
Sheldon
What’s twitter?
Here is a better picture of the crossing. You can see it is made in four solid metal sections at each frog. The only insulation is the 0.025" air gaps. This is the best way to make a cossing becuase there are no dead spots.
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I tried hand laying track once, never again. I know what I am good at and I know what I need to farm out. Hire your defficiencies, and track building is mine.
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The instructions show how to control it with a DPDT toggle, so a 4PDT toggle should be able to switch both at once. That might not work for what I want to do, I migth need an 8PDT, but they are available. I hate flipping multiple toggles.
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The manufacturer seems to be Standard Models of Spokane, Washington.
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That double crossing that Big Daddy posted looks perfect. I might check into that source as a supplier.
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-Kevin
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BK Enterprises used to make them
The noise a bird makes, I think.
–Randy
I remember those “Standard Models” crossings and they go way back, well Before the Oak Hill or Fasttracks templates (the list price of $2.25 tells you that!). When I see them at swap meets they tend to be in the grab bag boxes. That makes me wonder if they were an interesting idea that very few actually installed on a layout. Those guys inclined to cut the gaps to make them operable, lay the ties, spike the rails and so on were probably also able to make their own crossings.
Dave Nelson
Twitter - definition: A place on the internet where you can call total strangers a caboose, or show the world you are a caboose.
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I think very few were ever used. The wiring is difficult, and spiking is hard.
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For what I am going to do, it is perfect. They will be soldered to a piece of PC clad board.
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I have three of them, but they are all different angles.
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-Kevin
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Well, I really need a second one quite badly.
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If these truly can be found in “Grab Bag Boxes”, please pick one up for me.
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If someone can mail me one, I will gladly send you STRATTON & GILLETTE boxcar number 12683 as a thank you.
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Actually, it is not much of a thank you, I put the wrong decals on this one, so it does not match the rest of the 12500-13899 boxcar series. If it is the only SGRR car on your layout you will never know it is a goof.
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-Kevin
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https://www.handlaidtrack.com/tt-ho-x-45
Here’s a template.
I’ve never built one but could give it a shot. Shouldnt be too hard.
Spiking isnt all that hard, its all about who is doing the teaching, and having the proper tools for the job.
Would you like me to give it a shot? Send me PM. If not interested, I’ll keep a look out at the Amherst Show in January. If it isnt there, it probably doesnt exist anymore.
Well, part of this project is complete.
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I got my hands on an 8PDT switch. Actually, I found a 12PDT switch! I can use the extra contacts for signalling.
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I found this beauty on eBay from a seller in Bulgaria. According to the description it is surplus from a Soviet Era piece of military radio equipment!
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If you would have told me when I was in High School that I would be able to buy surplus Soviet hardware from someone in Bulgaria so I could wire a goofy solid metal crossing, well, that would have sounded nuts!
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-Kevin
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Somehow I came across a similar switch, also Russian Military surplus. I wired them to operate the turnouts on my double-slip switches. They are very versatile.
Originally they were make-before-break and I shortened the wiper and made them into break-before-make so they don’t short between positions.
4p-4p_rotary by Edmund, on Flickr
A friend of mine had a clock that was supposedly made for Russian submarine service and I seem to recall ejector seats removed from MIG fighters being sold on the secondary market.
regards, Ed
I can get you the whole Mig, you want the real thing, or a copy. How about a Spitfire, copy much cheaper or a bf-109. Tanks, no problem, steam engines, no problem.