I never planned on lighting structures, so I didn’t run any accessory wiring anywhere. To simplify it, can I run leads to LEDS and resistors within structures simply from the drop feeders?
I guess that would mean the structures would always be lit when power was on but couldn’t be lit otherwise?
Are you talking DC or DCC? There was an article recently I read which showed hooking up a capacitor and resistor to light using DCC track feed. I think there was also an article about using a reed switch so you could wave a magnet over the building to turn the lights on and off…
I know it doesn’t help you much except to say that “yes, it can be done” with DCC. Not sure with DC with its variable voltage…
Perhaps try posting on the electronics and dcc forum?
Chris
Not a good idea, whether you have a DC or especially DCC layout. It will draw current needed for your locomotive power, and when you do have wiring issues it would be a nightmare to troubleshoot. Its best to just run separate wire.
Hi!
May I suggest that you keep your lighting separate, and run them to a dedicated power pack. This could save you lots of wiring problems in the future, and truly simplify things. I would also use color coded wiring to differentiate it from all other.
Mobilman44
I would get a seperate power pack . Another Idea I have had was using one of those power supplies comes with new new phones but I haven’t had the chance to use one yet .
You could but why would you want to sacrifice valuable track power. A separate power pack will do the job or you could use an old computer power supply like I and some others do.
I agree that it’s a bad idea. By keeping the power supply separate, you will have better lighting control and not rob precious power to those rails. Also any short or wiring issues within a structure could drive you nuts trying to solve. We tend to have enough to worry about if there’s any track power problems as it is.
I picked up a couple extra MRC train controls for my lighting. Because some of the buildings have curtains, blinds and drapes, they needed a little more power to light them enough to be visible. One control is for open window lighting and outdoor lighting. The other is for rooms with afore mentioned window treatments. They are wired through different toggle switches so I can turn them off and on at will.
It seems this is another topic we pretty much agree on. Structure lighting should have its own dedicated power, separate from your track.
MR has an article this month on doing precisely this. The author’s reasoning is that he’s using LEDs, which don’t draw much current. However, LEDs are not necessarily the best choice for structure lighting. First of all, they are directional, throwing a beam of light like a headlight. To light a building, you want something like a light bulb, which has a more uniform illumination pattern. Second, LEDs don’t have that “warm” glow of an incandescent lamp, and the light doesn’t look right inside a building.
So, I’d suggest getting a couple of spools of wire, with colors that don’t match any of your other wiring, and run yourself some lighting busses. I set up about a half-dozen different busses on my layout (Building 1, Building 2, Street Lights, Yard Lights, etc.) to make troubleshooting easier.
As Danny Kaye would say, “Get it? Got it!, Good.”
Thanks modellers!