As a kid I had some Lionel trains that I would set up. It’s probably been 20+ years since I last set them up. They’ve been in storage in my parent’s basement - or should I say my parent’s damp basement - for all these years. I found the track and it is rather rusted. Is there any way to clean it up and use it again or will I have to get all new track?
Thanks,
Brian
if it is a surface rust I’d say yes you could clean it up with a brillo pad and some GOo Gone but if the track is pitted and corroded bad I’d pitch it
WHAAAATTTT!!! “Clean up” rusted track… Le tracque au naturel? Naturally rusted track? That others spend hours attempting to duplicate?
Sure, why not. [V]
If it were me, I would gently scrub the top running surface and run trains on it. As long as you can clean a place to get electrical connectivity, and as long as the rails conduct it along the length of your track, why not keep it the way it is. Such character…naturally rusted track… [8D]
I have used Scotch Brite pads to remove rust from rail tops.
underworld
[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
As underworld said, use a Scotch Brite pad (those green pads made for use in the kitchen). Spray a little WD40 onto the pad if the track is really, really rusty. You only need to clean off the top running surface – leave the sides rusty.
You might want to try WD40, it might save you some scrubbing, or at the very least, make your scrubbing easier.
I have to agree with underwood on the Scotch Brite. The brio pad may leave some metal fibers behind that would get into your engine.[tup]
The biggest thing to check is to be sure the center rail insulator is still good. If not the track will short out. [B)]
New tube track is very cheap now, only about $0.35 a peice. There is also planty of good used track out there. Is it worth cleaning it for $0.35 [?]
tom
Hey Spanky…it’s underworld not underwood! [:p]
underworld
[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
If it’s really bad, as Tom says, you’re better off throwing it out and replacing it, or otherwise only using it for sidings.
I cut my own large-sized sanding disks for my dremel tool and use those for cleaning track. They can hit two rails at a time, and get the running surface really clean and shiney.
The one part you have to keep in mind, though, is to clean the inside of the rail. It will usually be just as rusted, if not more so, than the outside, and will hamper the continuity from section to section. To take care of this, I use a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the rail at a very low speed, making sure that it touches all of the inside surfaces of the rail.
The track pins will also probably be shot. Pull them with a pair of wire cutters levered against the bottom part of the rail, and buy new ones. They can be had for less than $1/dozen. You will need three per track section. Use the wire cutters to crimp the new pins in place.
What Tom says is also very true about center rail insulation. If any of it is missing or damaged, the tabs can carefully be pried loose, the old insulation removed, and a piece of cardboard or several layers of electrical tape inserted in its place.
Another thing to consider with old tube type track is that if the out side is rusted from humid conditions where it was store all those years, the inside is too and since the conecting pins that slide into it carry the eletricity from one section to the other, you may have a problem with those little electron thingy’s wiggling through the rust inside where those pins make contact. If they expend too much energy wiggling through that rust, they probably will be too tired to turn the wheels on your loco. Ken Oops, Ben beat me to it, but has a great solution