I am having an off line dialog with a fellow forum member about this issue.
Having had a BLI 2-10-2 (subsequently sold) that had continuing problems with larger radius curves, I am doubtful that the BLI 2-10-2 can negotiate 18" radius curves without derailments.
I had two of them, currently have one. If there is a problem in the trackage, this loco will find it. In fact, I used it as the primary test loco when I built the current layout. My minimum radius is 26 inches, which the loco takes really well. But, I can’t see it working RELIABLY on anything less than 24 inch.
Would it do 18 inch radius? It might, but it sure would be a stretch.
My main line radius is 32 minimum, however I have a balloon track that goes from a 28"R down to a 22"R over a 240 degree turn. All the drivers are flanged and as soon as the radius tightens below about 28" it starts to lift out of the rails. Out on the main line this engine goes on forever without incident. It is my favourite.
Mobilman are all your drivers flanged? Mine are and like I said it lifts out and then drops back in again. If I didn’t look I probably wouldn’t notice it coming out. Also the deck plate can wreak havoc on tight curves by binding, so the engine and tender must be coupled further apart.
Personally with all the drivers having flanged wheels I wouldn’t go below 28"R. I would be interested to hear how it does with some of the drivers changed out though. Also it just looks really dumb and out of place on tight radius curves.
I have two BLI ten-coupled steamers, the Pennsy J1 2-10-4 and the Brass Hybrid UP TTT-6 2-10-2. Neither engine will go below 24" well, but if they do, it will be just so and only in sllloooooooowww order. Even so, prepare to find it hopping and falling back into the rails or climbing out and you having to re-rail an axle or more. If you have well-placed sectional curves at 22", or perfectly-laid flex, you can get both down to 22"
24" and up is no problem, as BLI claims for the J1, but they claim 22" for the TTT-6. Very iffy.