Can you fix a broken chassis?

I have a old Frankenstein Dash 9 I bought off E Bay, God 6 years ago and it was old then! I think Darth Santa Fe (he fixed for me) said it was Train Line Chassis, (might have been Vanity) Athearn Trucks and a Mashima motor. It runs great and pulls really well!

Other day I had to open up the engine to lube the motor and trucks. I have to remove the coupler boxes to lift the shell off. Much to my horror the section that hold the front coupler box had broken off between the rails off the main chassis! [banghead]

While the engine still works, I would like to reattach the broken section. I pretty sure if I had to, I could uses some plastic strips glued to the body to build it down (or up depending on the way you look at it) so I could mount the coupler box. But, if possible I like to mend the chassis.

Thanks for the coming answers.

Cuda Ken

Broken engine is in the front.

The metal chassis broke?

I’d try roughing the area with a wire brush and using JB-weld.

Wow, the thing still works! The body and chassis are early Rail Power parts.[:)]

If the metal just broke, it may have a little bit of zinc rot, which seems to be fairly common for manufacturer’s early attempts at casting metal. Some thin plastic or metal strips on the top and bottom and a little epoxy (or other strong glue) should fix it up permanently. Since it’s only the section for the coupler, it doesn’t have to hold too much weight.

Okay, I’m just curious. Is that Rail Power chassis just a modified Athearn chassis?

Also, I’m not a diesel expert. But according to the Santa Fe locomotive roster list at the Rail Road Picture Archives website, 806 is a C40-8W, not a dash 9.

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=10317

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/locoList.aspx?id=atsf&Page=6

None of that is important, except that all the pictures I looked at show the air tanks as being on the right, or engineer’s side of the unit. Is it possible that the original cobbler of that engine, Dr. Frankensteeen, got them swapped?

Just asking.

Max, I believe you are right. Darth told me it was a Dash 8 but when I bought it, it was listed as a dash 9.

Darth, your surprised it still runs? Why, you worked on it! [Y] You are the Master Darth! [bow]

I all so need to give thanks to Simon 1966 as well. He installed a decoder and made the the ditch lights work! From what I understand it was a pain in the Cabooses!

Thanks for the information Darth.

Ken

Well, considering it’s got a classic Athearn drive and a Mashima motor, I’m not surprised it’s still running.[:D] I’m just glad I did a good job for you!

The best thing to use is Epoxy once glued together it will NEVER come apart.

Several years ago I broke a P2K E unit frame in two. I repaired frame with JB Weld and some brace pieces and it has held up great.

Hi cudaKen

Not familiar with this one but reading the answers glue and brace should work provided there has been no crumbling around the break

If it is a metal chassis then I would brace with brass and get some very tiny nuts and bolts and bolt the brass bracing in as well if there is enough metal around to bolt it in.

Then once certain the repair was a good one, being the cheeky s#d I am. Order some modern style lettering or modern style name plate with Baron Von Frankenstein on it and put it on the cab side[:D]

regards John

I’m just waiting for the Bee Jees parody “How can we mend this broken lok” [(-D]

–Randy