I was reading the current MR. The writer was using #560 Canopy glue.
I have use alot of glue in my life but have never heard of this one.
Please describe this one
Harold
I was reading the current MR. The writer was using #560 Canopy glue.
I have use alot of glue in my life but have never heard of this one.
Please describe this one
Harold
Canopy glue is sold at model aircraft stores and is used to glue clear plastic canopies onto remote control aircraft.
I don’t fly model aircraft, but bought some canopy glue to try out. It seems to have the exact same color, smell, and viscosity as Weldbond, which can be purchased at any big name store such as Home Depot, Wal-mart, etc.
Canopy glue is what I use to create lens for small lights and for headlight lens. It is a white liquidy glue that drys clear. It doesn’t cause plastic to go foggy. I learned about it from a clinic I went to on LED lighting. The gentleman teaching uses it to make lens for his lights.
I use it for window glass application, too. It doesn’t “craze” any of the commonly-used clear materials for window glass. My LHS carries it, even though he doesn’t do model aircraft.
Another thing it’s nice for is glazing multi-pane factory windows, the kind that are common in Walthers Cornerstone kits. If you apply it with a toothpick so it fills the opening, it will dry to a hard, clear surface like old colonial glass - more lens-like than flat. When you put a light bulb inside the structure, the light will shine through, but you will not be able to focus and will not notice if the building does not have a detailed interior.
Hi, Harold
I picked up a bottle of the #560 when I made my last order to Litchfield Station but I have not experimented with this brand as yet. http://www.litchfieldstation.com/xcart/product.php?productid=999007685&cat=0&page=&featured=Y
I have used the Testors product with success and I have found it to be very capable for installing headlight lenses and securing LEDs into small signal housings.
Another handy use is for making number board “glass” especially the solid ones like on Stewart/Bowser, Highliner/Genesis F units. You can decal the engine number then float a pool of canopy cement over the decal and it looks like a very convincing number board. (just do one at a time and clamp the shell so the board is level until the cement sets) I’m sure a similar technique would work for lighted boards, too I just haven’t done any like that as yet.
Hope this helps, Ed
I use it to assembly wood structures, it works excellent.