I have a passing siding on a slight incline. When I uncouple the engine from a car it starts to roll back down the incline. Anyone have some innovative ways to keep the car in place, short of my trying to completely level out the incline? Thanks.
If you look between the rails of this scrapyard siding, between the two piles of old tires, there are some weeds growing up between the rails.
They are made of tall “field grass.” This material is flexible enough that trains can move over it easily, but still stiff enough to hold a stationary car in place. This siding has exactly the same problem you do - a slight slope - but with this tuft of field grass the gondolas will stay where I put them, even with free-running metal wheels.
Interesting. Definitely an innovative approach. Thanks for the feedback, it’s appreciated. I can’t wait to see what other folks suggest. By the way, nice looking scene.
For a slightly less visible fixed retarder, you can use single bristles from a nylon-bristle paint brush. Put them between the rails but off center.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Interesting suggestion. Thanks for the feedback.
Choke cable with the end protruding between the rails. Can be moved into place, then retracted.
No photo, but a piece of brass wire (might consider putting it in a tube you would glue in place). Bend the ends of the brass wire 90 degrees, offset 90 degrees. When the end between the rails is laying flat, the “handle” outside the track is standing up. When you want to “park” some cars, push the “handle” to the ground, so the other leg between the rails is standing. Let an axle roll against it, and this will hold the train on the grade. If done correctly, it will release automatically when you couple to it and push the train a bit. This could be made to look like a derail setup or some other trackside device.
Brad
Seriously?
So you are going to try to harass me on every thread I post on?
Yes, seriously. Works great and these have been used by skillful modelers for many years.
Hi,
On my 11 x 15 around the room layout, I found that the caboose track (cap 8) ended up on the duck under, which is on a very slight incline. Previously I had changed out all the wheelsets to intermountain, and my trackwork is pretty good - which all came down to the caboosesss merrily rolling on their way.
I read a trick in MR and thought I’d give it a try. It involves taking KD coupler springs, cutting in two, and placing on the axle of a truck. I did that, and found all the cars would hold their place with one or two half springs installed. Note that the rolling properties ended up being pretty much what they were pre Intermountain wheelsets.
Now being a caboose track this works fine for me, but you having a passing siding it would mean slowing down all your cars - something out of the question.
A few ways I have seen work:
Weeds / brush bristle: Pro: don’t have to remove, I have seen work best for industrial sidings
Wheel stop made of Styrene: Pro: can be moved around based off of need, worked well for a run-around since the size and placement of train doesn’t matter
Metal wire, raised of lowered manually or attached to switch motor: Pro, can be retracted when not needed and looks clean. Would work better on a track you don’t want weeds and don’t want a large plastic wheelstop.
Chris
Choke cables have been used for a very long time for everything like turnout throws to car stops. Very useful item and don’t discount the usefulness of them. The Lionel layout of my youth used a choke cable to open the hopper for loading coal into hoppers and the car dump was rotated with a choke cable.
Anyway the current HO scale layout uses weeds growing along side the tracks with some fishing monofiliment in them that brush along the truck frames. Very unobtrusive and easily disguised with a little sand left over from the locomotives trying to start their trains on slippery rail.
Think about adding a derail to the siding to prevent side collisions and run away cars.
Pete
I like many of the suggestions, but have not used them. I just derail a truck or two and the consists usually stays in place unless the grade exceeds about 3%.
Yes, low tech and coarse, but…free.
Crandell
I like the idea of the choke cable for the passing siding and the weeds for a siding or two where things are not level. Awesome suggestions. You guys have been really helpful. Not sure why I spend so much time Googling things when I can just ask here.
I’ve used the nylon bristle set up myself,just high enough to touch the axle,if you use black,they can’t be seen…You can’t get any cheaper,or effective,in my opinion…
Cheers,
Frank
If it were me I would level the track.
I hear you. In a perfect world. 
I use a small piece of styrene tube, cut in half and wedge it in front of the wheel. Does a good job of holding, just have to remember to remove it when I want to move the cars
My method is simple…I have use push pins that I painted blue-blue flag protection for the workers unloading the car…
See,I told yas I go against the flow.[(-D]
Larry,
I just set the hand brake,LOL…
Cheers,
Frank