You know the barrels you get that have no lines that go up and down, like wine, nail keg…
How would you go about carving these in there?
Toad
(ok, you can say I am abit an!l)
If they don’t have a section resembling a metal band, how bout a light touch with a coping saw? otherwise I guess it woud be a suitable knife from a carving set, a steady hand, and maybe a ruler & pencil to keep the lines straight? Just score it with a razor knife?
How about those little “V” shaped miniature lathe carving chisels. In most stores I’ve looked ar, they are just a few pegs down from the “X-Acto” knives. the blade looks to be a brass/bronze composition about 3/8 inch wide, 3 inch long, in a 5 inch wood handle.
Cool ideas, will try them!!!
Ole Toad
I have a skinny little diamond wheel (545) for my dremel that does some pretty fine lines.
-Brian
Hi Toad I rember the last time you tried DIY put some gloves on this time the good lady does not want to be patching you up again[:)]
However you scribe them, remember not to make them too perfect. You might wanna add a knott or two.
Ok, ok, Two Tone, Trigg, Dwbeckett is on me for da hooch, so I will not drink any hard Dr. Pepper before I do this! [(-D]
Toad (dad is still in hospital [
])
There ain’t no knott holes in good ones, what are you thinking??? Coopers would not make one with knotts in them, but I could be wrong [:P]
Toad
Toad, You been reading my mind.
If I were to undertake that little job (and one day I will) here’s what I’d do:
Get an old, smallish file that’s comfortable to hold, or put a handle (‘duck’ tape works) that feels good. Sharpen that rascal on the grinder and scratch it on a scrap of wood until you get the size and look of line you want. It’ll prob’ly end up looking like a ‘V’, but not hollowed out. It could be a hook-nose form would work better. Dunno.
Do you have a steady hand? Yes? Then skip the rest 'n have at 'er. Howsumever, if you’re like me, cut a wood block just the least tad longer than your barrel, and wide enough so it’s tall enough to give you a good steadyrest. Put barrel (with protecting tape on ends) in vise with block/steadyrest alongside it, and clamp it and the steadyrest down. Lean your tool down and make a light scratch. Remember that the barrel changes diameter as you go along towards the middle, so you need to compensate a tad with the tool. Staves of a barrel is wider in the middle than at the ends. If you’re extra particular, you can sandpaper out a radius in your guideblock to account for the problem.
Les W. in ~.36 feet of snow, along the south bank of the Missouri. (That’s in 1/20) scale.) [:P]
Toad,
This is plain barrel from Michael’s with lines scribed using a heavy Xacto blade. Heavy glove on the holding hand as some force was required to cut the lines.
Then painting and you wind up with something like this:
Hope this helps.
TJ
TJ, let me see that knife, what # is it?
Ole Toad
I do have another question for you. What is that orange RR vechile to the left of the barrel in the background???
Toad
Toad maybe you should ware two glove’s on each hand.
Dave
Hey my drilled finger healed up well! I do my own sewing too!
But gettn two chain mail gloves for fishing are looking good about now!
About 1 week after my other finger healed I killed the nexted finger with a dremel gouge (sp) bit!
Ole Toad
A few posts back, I saw where someone is buying their barrels from Michael’s. If you are buying them from craft stores, you are overpaying for them. I posted the following in the “Scratchbuilding & Kitbashing” forum. It contains a link to the manufacturer of the barrels who sells them at $15.00 for 100 barrels… here is the post…
The other night, I bought some wood barrels from one of the big-chain craft stores at 99 cents for a bag of 2. Tonight I looked on the package and low and behold, the manufacturer has a website where you can get them even cheaper. For $15.00 I bought a bag of 100 wooden barrels for the Beerhall, beer garden and Krausbrau Brauerei in my G-scale alpine German village of Krausbach (named after my late godparents Karl & Christine Kraus who were from Nurnberg, Germany). If you are building a structure that is in need of barrels, oil drums or milk cans check them out at http://www.craftparts.com/mall/page37.asp I hope I am not in violation of any forum rules by posting the link as my intention is to help anyone else who may be looking for these items. The barrels are 1 5/8 inches tall by 1 1/8 inches wide. They also have a selection of other wood parts which may be of some help for a scratch-building project.
Captain Stryker
Toad,
TJ, let me see that knife, what # is it?
No. 1 knife with No. 11 blade. Be carefull. But I’ve done a dozen barrels so far and still have all my fingers .
I do have another question for you. What is that orange RR vechile to the left of the barrel in the background???
Picked up this old and used LGB diesel set for $50 bucks (US). No idea what I’ll do with it so far. The orange item in the barrel pic (man, you have better eyesight than me!) is, I think, the work caboose from the set pictured (based on the candy strip in the pic).
Best,
TJ
Hi Toad, Just checkin to see you are ok, hope every thing is a little better for you all, Take it easy. Let things come and go there is no rush.
Two, I am ok, just have not felt like doing anthing RR lately.
Toad